to run higher then 75 shot, would i just have to change the spark plugs, piston heads, and rods? or is there more to do?

 

The thing about nitrous is that it's an instant force on your bottom end unlike forced induction items like turbochargers and superchargers which are are more of a gradual "build up" force.

The part of your engine that it mostly effects though is your connecting rods and pistons. When you read that the 2.2 ECOTEC snaps all 4 rods at 250 HP...well GM reached that 250 mark with a 100 shot of nitrous. Why did they snap simultaneously? Cause a 100 shot of instant force snapped the rods to hell.

If you truely wanted to have an high performance motor and able to handle nitrous, I would suggest upgrading everything with the exception of the crankshaft as optional. I personally would up the compression, get wild n/a camshafts and go in that direction. Why? Cause I personally don't see a point in spending all that money to just replace your pistons and rods, stay at the same compression just so you can spray nitrous occasionally and still have a mediocre vehicle. This setup would also be strong enough to handle the nitrous shot you want to throw at it. I would suggest getting some type of fuel management system as well with this since you would be changing airflow acceptionally.

But, if you just want to upgrade SO you can spray safely...

Forged Connecting Rods
Forged Pistons
High Flow Fuel Pump
Colder Spark Plugs

and other nitrous accessories to maintain and monitor your setup.

 

I am planning to do a dual nozzle system in the stock intake manifold.

2 x 50 shot.

 

So do you think I'll have a problem with stock internals and 75 shot?

 

as long as you don't use it all the time.... start with a 50 to be safe

 

Just get alot of pre-caution nitrous items, that's my only suggestion.

 

75 should be no problem at all, its even recommended by GM as the max.

I wonder how the bottom end would hold up if you reached 250 with N/A mods + 75 shot.

One thing I haven't seen though is 2.2 pistons with a higher than stock compression. The only thing I've seen is stock 10:1 and 8:1

 

Higher Compression N/A < Lower Compression F/I

 

It's able to be done.

If someone was truely interested in getting higher compression pistons, they can contact Karo @ Car Customs.net and he can get them for you from Wiseco.

 

Eh, that's too much of a generalzation. It really depends on what that person is going for.

 

It's generally a good rule of thumb though.

Buy cams, intake manifold, CAI, header, and exhaust first. Then go with your staged setup.

UNlike with a big single shot you can run quite a bit more nitrous wiht a staged setup. LS-1 owners have been going past the 750WHP mark with a built top end, full exhasut, and lots of squeeze.

Biggest thing though, if your gonna ever run the 50 shot. RACE FUEL! Get that tank down to the last gallon then fill wiht the highest no lead fuel you cna get your hands on. 94 isnt' good enough for a 50 shot on a stock 4 banger. (Equivilent to a 150 on a SBC, which is the breaking point on pump gas no exceptions.)

 

I'm sorry but I think that's a little far fetched. If a 50 shot and 93 or 94 octane wasn't good enough, people would have been blowing motors all over the place on 75 shots. It's not like these people are raising their compressions and detonation is extremely likely from not having a high enough octane fuel...they're biggest risk of detonation is from lack of fuel. Heck, I had a friend who used to run 100 shot constantly on a stock motor (2.4 Twin Cam Cavalier), never had any problems, used 93 octane and was fine.

The I-4s and V-8s are no where the same so you really can't compare the two. Granted saying do those modifications is easy but is it neccessary for what people are looking for power wise? Probably not.

 

It's basic motor building man. To maximise the gains form the nitrous you want the engine to breathe as well as it can so upgrading the top end and exhaust is paramount to actually getting 50HP from a 50 shot.

Sure the 75 is the max reccomended by GM. Doesn't mean that the engine will happily take it weekend after weekend once or twice. And yes fuel is a big issue there. One of the biggest. But that's a given. And If he was to stage it I'm sure one woudl be direct port, and the other a wet setup, or two seperate wet setups. Going dry with both is just asking for trouble.

I am fully aware of the displacement difference of a 2.2L Eco and a 5.6 LS-1. Just to rough guess it a 50 shot to you is liek a 100 to me. (Double displacement, double shot, same strain on internals.) But I must give you guys a lot of props for triny to race with only half a motor. :p

Anyway, like I said. If he were to run the staged 50 shots I'd say he'll need race fuel. ANd he will. That's a 200 shot compairatively to my car. And anything over 125 (for a SB V-8) you want to run race fuel. a 75 being the ragged limit honestly for street fuel for the eco is a good idea for reliability. If hes' gonna run two 50s and go pump gas. Well Id' liek to see the engine after a few trips to the strip.

If he's plannign many season on the car he needs forged pistons and rods. ANd colder plugs of course.

 

What if I told you I do a 75 wet shot with little to no detination with 93 and stock timing.

 

I spray all the time (75shot) and have no problem

 

I"m still tryin to get some loot together for my kit... I'm only gonna spray a 50 though

 

running leaded race gs in your car is a bad idea. you only need to run hiogher than 93-94 octane if your spraying like 200 plus hp anything under that will be fine on pump gas.

 

I have an idea...........DONT USE ***** POWER, and make some real power

 

someone got beat by a car on nitrous nitrous was considered cheating 30 years ago, now its a common power adder, theres nothing ***** about nitrous.

 

I think its funny how someone running a supercharged 2.0L engine considers nitrous cheating

 

I hate when people say you can't compare nitrous to F/I, they're both power adders, its just up to you on what you decide to use and if you use both then the sucks for the other guy your racing!! I love my spray!!

 

Im not saying it is cheating, and no I havent got beat by a car with nitrous....that I know of at least . Also I need to add that opinions are like ******** and everybody has one, so there is mine!!

 

Well I will say this though...

I've seen people start with nitrous and take it off and go with boost but I've never seen someone start out with boost and take it off for nitrous.

But you are right though, it's all personal prefference. The thing that I kind of dislike but somewhat understand at the same time is that people only use nitrous cause they aren't motivated enough to save money for a turbo setup or supercharger setup.

Now you have a nitrous cause you're power hungry :P

 

1st off, it's my first post, secondly, I wouldn't say people go to nitrous because they are too "cheap" to get a Turbo/Supercharger setup for their vehicle. Now yes Turbo's and Superchargers are awesome and the cool factor is WAY beyond "nos". But for the occasional racer who builds a nice (this is going to be for V8's here so bear with me) heads/cam car that runs well off the bottle but wants to push it at race time and not have the maintenance and everyday hassle (not really a hassle but you get what I'm saying, boost everyday-nitrous whenever you feel like it), nitrous is the adder of choice. I'm coming in from the F-0Body world, last Camaro was running 11.97@119 on motor, then a 300 shot for kicks (no time slips though, sold it before new track times ). Now my new project is a 69' Tempest I'm building a Turbo OHC Straight 6 in lol, and looking at these Cobalts for a DD. Oh and on the reason for nitrous bending those rods as being an instant force, I'd have to say your PARTIALLY correct. Nitrous, just like Forced Induction, increases the combustion pressure inside a cylinder which in exchange increases the amount of power the engine is producing, The instant force isn't much different and hard on an engine as when you come into lets say 10psi from 0. Your still creating massive amounts of cylinder pressure. The BIGGEST enemy of nitrous is detonation. Too many people slap on a nitrous kit thinking they are Terretto and don't take the time to make sure it is "tuned" properly. Resulting in lean conditions under WOT, etc etc. Then people get this crazy idea that nitrous is horrible on your engine and a Turbo is perfectly safe, wrong. A properly setup nitrous system will work just as safely as a nice turbo setup and be dependable still. It's all in the tuning Oh, and HI

 

Oh, and a poor lubriaction system on the bottom end not suited for fast revving/high pressure/combustion setups is also a leading cause of failure, spun rod bearings anyone?