build your own traction bars.
10-29-2009, 10:53 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
build your own traction bars.
Want traction bars? Think 200+ bucks is too much? Well I did, so I set out on a quest to build my own. What I found is that most traction bars for the SS/redline are made up of components you can find at your everyday speed shop.
You don’t have the buy from the places I list , use Google to find other retailers that carry the same items, you may even have a shop near home that carries some of this stuff.I went with 2 piece mild Steel rod ends,summit chromemoly rod ends are available , but mild steel should be more than strong enough for the application.
1. 2 - 10-11” Threaded tube with LH and RH thread , aluminum $7.99 each or - steel $10.99 each
2. 2- 5/8-18 thread 5/8 hole spherical rod ends right hand thread $8.95 each or chromemoly $13.95 each
3. 2- 5/8-18 thread 5/8 hole spherical rod ends left hand thread $6.95 each or chromemoly $13.95each
All fallowing items should be available at local hardware store and shouldn’t cost more than $20-25 , or you can search and order all hardware online.
4. 2 - 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 grade 5 or better bolts (frame)
5. 2 - 3" x 5/8-11 grade 5 or better bolts (control arm)
6. 8 – 5/8 lock washers
7. 4 – - 5/8 aluminum tapered spacers or ˝” or 3/4“ straight spacers
8. 4 - 5/8-11 nylock nuts(nylon lock nuts)
If you add everything up it comes out to 80 to 90 bucks for a basic set up or $140 tops for super cool HARDCORE bars , and that’s factoring shipping.
Don’t get me wrong , retailers offer a good product , and it nice if you don’t want to do all the shopping around. Plus they offer there’s in different powder coated finishes. But if your cheap like me … this is the way to go.
So here’s all my ordered parts assembled.
Pretty simple. RH jam nut goes on RH rod end then RH rod into RH thread of your tube
And same for the LH. Also in the pic is miscellaneous grade 5 hardware.
I’m not going to go into detail on the install. If you search Google, you may be able find a detailed how-to.
I’ll just say it involves drilling a 5/8ths hole in the center of your controle arms about 2 ˝ inches from the little nub. And the a pre-existing hole on the sub frame.
My ˝” long spacer.
And what a nyloc nut looks like .
And the final install. You can see the spacer and the split lock washers used as adjustment shims. order of assembly is bolt-rod end –spacer-lock washer –lock washer-frame/control arm-nyloc nut. 3” bolt goes thru control arm , 4 ˝’ bolt goes thru hole in frame . Be sure to use a good metal to metal lube .like white lithium grease on the rod ends joints.
You don’t have the buy from the places I list , use Google to find other retailers that carry the same items, you may even have a shop near home that carries some of this stuff.I went with 2 piece mild Steel rod ends,summit chromemoly rod ends are available , but mild steel should be more than strong enough for the application.
1. 2 - 10-11” Threaded tube with LH and RH thread , aluminum $7.99 each or - steel $10.99 each
2. 2- 5/8-18 thread 5/8 hole spherical rod ends right hand thread $8.95 each or chromemoly $13.95 each
3. 2- 5/8-18 thread 5/8 hole spherical rod ends left hand thread $6.95 each or chromemoly $13.95each
All fallowing items should be available at local hardware store and shouldn’t cost more than $20-25 , or you can search and order all hardware online.
4. 2 - 4 1/2" x 5/8-11 grade 5 or better bolts (frame)
5. 2 - 3" x 5/8-11 grade 5 or better bolts (control arm)
6. 8 – 5/8 lock washers
7. 4 – - 5/8 aluminum tapered spacers or ˝” or 3/4“ straight spacers
8. 4 - 5/8-11 nylock nuts(nylon lock nuts)
If you add everything up it comes out to 80 to 90 bucks for a basic set up or $140 tops for super cool HARDCORE bars , and that’s factoring shipping.
Don’t get me wrong , retailers offer a good product , and it nice if you don’t want to do all the shopping around. Plus they offer there’s in different powder coated finishes. But if your cheap like me … this is the way to go.
So here’s all my ordered parts assembled.
Pretty simple. RH jam nut goes on RH rod end then RH rod into RH thread of your tube
And same for the LH. Also in the pic is miscellaneous grade 5 hardware.
I’m not going to go into detail on the install. If you search Google, you may be able find a detailed how-to.
I’ll just say it involves drilling a 5/8ths hole in the center of your controle arms about 2 ˝ inches from the little nub. And the a pre-existing hole on the sub frame.
My ˝” long spacer.
And what a nyloc nut looks like .
And the final install. You can see the spacer and the split lock washers used as adjustment shims. order of assembly is bolt-rod end –spacer-lock washer –lock washer-frame/control arm-nyloc nut. 3” bolt goes thru control arm , 4 ˝’ bolt goes thru hole in frame . Be sure to use a good metal to metal lube .like white lithium grease on the rod ends joints.
10-29-2009, 11:43 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
10-29-2009, 11:59 PM
#9
Senior Member
how much angularity do you get at the rod ends when in full compression or rebound?
10-30-2009, 06:44 AM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
i need to look at the car again and measure full suspension travel.
the rods-ends allow for about 20 or so degrees ,which is about 6" of travel , but i noticed i had more travel on the down swing then on the up,so i may need to play with spacing , just for peace of mind. iv gone over some harsh bumps and hard sweeping corners and haven't had any issues as of yet.
10-31-2009, 01:34 PM
#15
whatsup with everyone getting banned?
btw tell him good how to.
i'll probably look into doing this for my tc when i get it.
how much of a major change did this make?
10-31-2009, 01:38 PM
#16
Senior Member
10-31-2009, 08:52 PM
#18
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Location: Rockledge, FL
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"I'm not sure if they will work on the 2.2 cobalts as far as correct length and geometry goes ,but the idea does. The redline used stamped steel Lac's and there was a hole already there ,it just needed to be made bigger. the 2.2 cobalt may be the same . If the sub frames are the same or close to the same there should be a hole there to mount to. to find the right rod length measure from one hole to the other then subtract 3" and that should be the length you need.each rod end adds about 1.5" (center of rod end)to each side of the rod. and thats accounting for the rod end being threaded in half way.
The work great, they help eliminate wheel hop , but i still spin. so they help put power to the ground by getting rid of fear of wheelhop related damage lol.
ps. i got banned for making a joke in the lounge section redarding two venders...guess i'll be back in 2 weeks or somthing.
-PhatnackySS"
I got him the wedding band from titanium-buzz.com. It comes with a warranty as well as a certificate of authenticity. I was so excited when I found it because what could be a better way of celebrating my husbands love for cars then putting a part of it in his band 
I don't recommend working on your car with it on like he does because we have found its needing a new clear coat or a good polish, but other than that its REALLY sturdy and good quality.
The work great, they help eliminate wheel hop , but i still spin. so they help put power to the ground by getting rid of fear of wheelhop related damage lol.
ps. i got banned for making a joke in the lounge section redarding two venders...guess i'll be back in 2 weeks or somthing.
-PhatnackySS"
I don't recommend working on your car with it on like he does because we have found its needing a new clear coat or a good polish, but other than that its REALLY sturdy and good quality.
11-12-2009, 12:22 PM
#24
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Join Date: 04-08-07
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Track tested as of now, went to the track , almost no wheel hop on the launch and just spin going into 2nd gear. no new best track times becasue my 60ft still sucks. Im thinking the hankook tires i have now suck or the track just want prepped very well. The wheel hop i feel now is very mild. slight rumble compared to the jack hammer sensation i felt before.
no noise so far .
PhatnackySS
no noise so far .
PhatnackySS