wheel adapters
05-03-2013, 01:27 PM
#31
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looking at lowering my car with some lowering springs (ssc possibly) was wondering wheel adapters needed to make wheels flush on stock ss/sc wheels... thanks for the help!
05-03-2013, 01:32 PM
#32
stock studs are 1.5" from hub surface to the end of the stud. but only 1.125" is threads, the last .375" is just metal. so you've got 1.125" of usable threads, but you've got to put the rotor on, so theres .3125" of rotor which brings the usable threads now down to .8125" or 13/16" of threaded stud.
/midnightrantpost.
LOVE YOU! Finally someone's got the measurements down!!!
and 19 MM is 0.748031". just to give you guys an idea.
So from what ive seen....To not lose tire size/traction, because 1" pokes stock 18's to far, you need to run somewhere from a 21-23MM spacer, and cut the studs. That would be the "cheap" way to do it. Or just get 19-20mm adapters and extended studs, thats probably the perfect width. Anything below 21mm would be too much stud to cut.
05-03-2013, 05:24 PM
#37
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always get hubcentric, unless you just can't afford the slight increase in price...
the ring on the hub centers the wheel. so if you're running adapters it's the same concept. you want the adapters to be centered on your hubs, so when your wheels are centered on your adapters everything is in line. if the adapters are slightly offcentered on the hubs, and then the wheels are slightly off on the adapters. everything is now very far off and you will have horrible wheel shake along premature axle and hub wear.
stock studs are 1.5" from hub surface to the end of the stud. but only 1.125" is threads, the last .375" is just metal. so you've got 1.125" of usable threads, but you've got to put the rotor on, so theres .3125" of rotor which brings the usable threads now down to .8125" or 13/16" of threaded stud.
but you've got that .375" of metal on the end sticking out. so after you put the rotor on, your usable threaded length is .8125" or 13/16" and the overall length is 1.1875 or 1 3/16". so you'll need at least a 1 3/16"(1.1875") thick adapter if you don't want to shave down your stock studs.
however.. lol. remember that .375"of metal at the end? well .375" > .1875" so if you want to run a 1" spacer you can shave .1875" off the .375"s of metal on the end of the stud and still have all your threads along with .1875" of metal before the threads. you won't be cutting threads until you cut that .375" of metal off.
have i confused you yet? good haha. cause you didn't need to read past the last sentence of my first paragraph where i said when rotor and hub are mated together, you have .8125" of thread on the stock studs. so, assuming the nut your are going to use to tighten those adapters doesn't come past the surface of the adapter. you can run a .8125" thickness, cut the excess metal off the end of your studs and still have every thread on there for when you don't run the adapters.
but since your question was shaving them down at all. that would be leaving the metal on the end and your length is 1.1875".
CLIFF NOTES!!!!
no thinner than 1.1875" if you don't want to touch your studs at all
no thinner than .8125" if you want to cut the ends of them but not effect the ability to go back to stock.
extended studs + spacer still brings the load out the same length as an adapter does. the only draw back though is that the spacer is just sandwiched in between the hub and the lugnut now and the wheel is clamped on further away from the hub. with adapters the adapters bolt on right snug next to the hub and the wheel bolts on the adapter so it's all nice and tight and even loads. that's why companies only make spacers X thick, and beyond that require an adapter, even if it's the same bolt pattern adapter..
ARP studs are used purpose built for their tinsel strength, mainly for drag racing and road racing. but with the high tinsel strength comes the advantage of what i was just explaining, i don't know of anyone doing it, but they "should" be able to handle the lug nuts being further out with the spacer like i mentioned in the paragraph above. imo i wouldn't run a spacer larger than 1/2" stock studs, 3/4" on arps.
/midnightrantpost.
the ring on the hub centers the wheel. so if you're running adapters it's the same concept. you want the adapters to be centered on your hubs, so when your wheels are centered on your adapters everything is in line. if the adapters are slightly offcentered on the hubs, and then the wheels are slightly off on the adapters. everything is now very far off and you will have horrible wheel shake along premature axle and hub wear.
stock studs are 1.5" from hub surface to the end of the stud. but only 1.125" is threads, the last .375" is just metal. so you've got 1.125" of usable threads, but you've got to put the rotor on, so theres .3125" of rotor which brings the usable threads now down to .8125" or 13/16" of threaded stud.
but you've got that .375" of metal on the end sticking out. so after you put the rotor on, your usable threaded length is .8125" or 13/16" and the overall length is 1.1875 or 1 3/16". so you'll need at least a 1 3/16"(1.1875") thick adapter if you don't want to shave down your stock studs.
however.. lol. remember that .375"of metal at the end? well .375" > .1875" so if you want to run a 1" spacer you can shave .1875" off the .375"s of metal on the end of the stud and still have all your threads along with .1875" of metal before the threads. you won't be cutting threads until you cut that .375" of metal off.
have i confused you yet? good haha. cause you didn't need to read past the last sentence of my first paragraph where i said when rotor and hub are mated together, you have .8125" of thread on the stock studs. so, assuming the nut your are going to use to tighten those adapters doesn't come past the surface of the adapter. you can run a .8125" thickness, cut the excess metal off the end of your studs and still have every thread on there for when you don't run the adapters.
but since your question was shaving them down at all. that would be leaving the metal on the end and your length is 1.1875".
CLIFF NOTES!!!!
no thinner than 1.1875" if you don't want to touch your studs at all
no thinner than .8125" if you want to cut the ends of them but not effect the ability to go back to stock.
extended studs + spacer still brings the load out the same length as an adapter does. the only draw back though is that the spacer is just sandwiched in between the hub and the lugnut now and the wheel is clamped on further away from the hub. with adapters the adapters bolt on right snug next to the hub and the wheel bolts on the adapter so it's all nice and tight and even loads. that's why companies only make spacers X thick, and beyond that require an adapter, even if it's the same bolt pattern adapter..
ARP studs are used purpose built for their tinsel strength, mainly for drag racing and road racing. but with the high tinsel strength comes the advantage of what i was just explaining, i don't know of anyone doing it, but they "should" be able to handle the lug nuts being further out with the spacer like i mentioned in the paragraph above. imo i wouldn't run a spacer larger than 1/2" stock studs, 3/4" on arps.
/midnightrantpost.
This answers my question and more, thank you. +2 style points
01-22-2014, 08:53 AM
#49
Ok i read through the thread and Im looking for some help. This is on an 09 SS/TC Sedan, The wheels I want are 2crave Mach M7 18x8, but they only come in a +47 offset in the 5x110 pattern. I want a deeper concave which only comes in other bolt patterns preferably a +35 or close.
My options and questions are as followed:
Wheel 1:
Mach M7 18x8 5x100 +35 Hub bore 72.56
http://www.ebay.com/itm/18x8-Black-Mach-M7-Wheels-5x100-35-CHRYSLER-SEBRING-CONVERTIBLE-SEDAN-CIRRUS-/350980723952?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item51b814d4f0&vxp=mtrWheel 2:
Mach M7 18x8 5x112 +35 Hub bore 66.56
http://www.ebay.com/itm/18x8-Black-Mach-M7-Wheels-5x112-35-AUDI-TT-A6-A4-A8-S4-S6-TTS-/350977031641?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item51b7dc7dd9&vxp=mtr
Which would be the best way to go about this with an adapter?
Is one bolt pattern better than another when using an adapter?
Is there a 20mm adapter?
I would not like any more poke than a Varrstoen 18x9.5 +34 with a 5mm spacer. (would get Varrstoens but I dont want that wide of a wheel with a 235 on it)
I want an 18x8 with plans of a 235/40 tire.
Will the offset be too great with a +35 and an adapter that would cause hub problems?
Car is stock hight with coils planned in the future to level the car but not drop it a ton it needs to be functional.
I don't have any clue about hubcentric other than I know you need it for a balanced ride with spacers.
Im sorry I am totally new to wheels and offsets and adapters. Never put aftermarket wheels on any car I have ever owned.
Edit: HONKY BOY is my idea maker, but with an 18x8 +35 https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/whee...ity-yo-296153/
My options and questions are as followed:
Wheel 1:
Mach M7 18x8 5x100 +35 Hub bore 72.56
http://www.ebay.com/itm/18x8-Black-Mach-M7-Wheels-5x100-35-CHRYSLER-SEBRING-CONVERTIBLE-SEDAN-CIRRUS-/350980723952?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item51b814d4f0&vxp=mtrWheel 2:
Mach M7 18x8 5x112 +35 Hub bore 66.56
http://www.ebay.com/itm/18x8-Black-Mach-M7-Wheels-5x112-35-AUDI-TT-A6-A4-A8-S4-S6-TTS-/350977031641?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item51b7dc7dd9&vxp=mtr
Which would be the best way to go about this with an adapter?
Is one bolt pattern better than another when using an adapter?
Is there a 20mm adapter?
I would not like any more poke than a Varrstoen 18x9.5 +34 with a 5mm spacer. (would get Varrstoens but I dont want that wide of a wheel with a 235 on it)
I want an 18x8 with plans of a 235/40 tire.
Will the offset be too great with a +35 and an adapter that would cause hub problems?
Car is stock hight with coils planned in the future to level the car but not drop it a ton it needs to be functional.
I don't have any clue about hubcentric other than I know you need it for a balanced ride with spacers.
Im sorry I am totally new to wheels and offsets and adapters. Never put aftermarket wheels on any car I have ever owned.
Edit: HONKY BOY is my idea maker, but with an 18x8 +35 https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/whee...ity-yo-296153/
Last edited by crashher0; 01-22-2014 at 09:02 AM.
01-22-2014, 09:47 AM
#50
See my post ^ but i went to the link to get custom adapters for a 5x110 to a 5x100 and they were $240 before tax/shipping. Would this be the best way to go or should i get them machined to a thicker 25mm or 30mm?
2009 CHEVROLET COBALT_SS_5_LUG
Your Bolt Pattern: 5x110mm
Your Hub Diameter: 65.1mm
*********************
Type: One Piece Adapter
Hub Centric to Car & Wheel Centric to Wheel
Thickness: 20mm
Stud Size: 12x1.5
Center Bore: 72.56mm
Diameter: 5 by 100 (3.94 inches)
Quantity: 4
2009 CHEVROLET COBALT_SS_5_LUG
Your Bolt Pattern: 5x110mm
Your Hub Diameter: 65.1mm
*********************
Type: One Piece Adapter
Hub Centric to Car & Wheel Centric to Wheel
Thickness: 20mm
Stud Size: 12x1.5
Center Bore: 72.56mm
Diameter: 5 by 100 (3.94 inches)
Quantity: 4