Anyone care to make a sticky/share information for wheel adapters.

Great site for adapters/spacers
Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech




for example

5x110 to 5x100
5x110 to 5x114.3

thickness of adapter needed
size of wheel
extended studs if needed
thickness to clear brembos


Ill go first
Looking at 18x8.5 Varrstoen in 5x100
offset:38
bore:56.1
tires:225/40/18

What thickness should the adapter be to clear the brembos, and for it to be nice and flush front and rear?

 

Mods can you move this to wheels and tires please.

 

edit: 18x8.5 not 18x18.5

 

Thanks!

 

which varrstoen wheels u looking at? i could imagine the 8.5 sitting flush at around +30 or so

the spoke shape determines your clearance of the massive brembos

the +38 offset is a bit low for a adapter so the redrill option said in the other thread will be your best bet and u can add 5mm spacers to put u at +33 or u need a 8-10mm spacer u will need longer studs that will put ya at +30 or +28

 

Thanks for the informative post, i am getting in touch with varrstoen about getting a custom set, i think specs below should fit flush.

18x8.5
+30 offset

 

yup those will be fine, room on the inside(strut clearance) and will sit flush

im not sure about the brembos tho, no experience with them

 

Hoping to get away with a 5mm spacer to clear brakes.

 

I know this is an older thread but I have a question. I tried looking on here and Google it but can't find much for base model information on what I need. Anyways, here's my question:

I have 4x100 hubs. I want adapters in 4x100-4x100 that are about an inch thick. Will I need to run extended studs or will the stock studs be long enough for the nuts from the adapters to tighten it on with? If I have to I will order some 12x1.5" studs from Jegs and put those in but just curious to see if it can be done.

Edit: I also have 17x7" wheels and lowered enough where I will not rub with adapters, in case anyone was wondering.

 

alot of people run a 1in adapter, one person i think said he had to shave the stock studs as they came out far enough that it interfered with the wheeling bolting up.

u can measure the stock studs to see how long they are as well

 

I got 1 inch adapaters 5X110 to 5X114.3 and it sits flush in rear but front is lil too much poke. a spacer is better just not sure how thick for a flush look.

 

Yeah that's all I want is to make it all look flush and be able to see the wheels back there. Thank you guys for the quick responses.

 

Man im so close to getting 1" adapters for my stock wheels just dont wanna rub. Wheel adapters dont need to be hubcentric do they?

 

I bought my O.Z. wheels through them. Junior is the owner, good guy, really good customer service.

 

I just want to know whats the thinnest adapter I can run without having to shave stock studs

 

to add, wider wheels 8-9in would be better. to me 7in wide pushed out creates extra stress

fill the wheel wells and be flush.

 

Am i the only one running 5x110 to 5x100 adapters? Mine are 19mm. FYI to run adapters, look for rim offsets that are 40+ depending on width. Otherwise you will be mexiflush.

 

Great company

 

Yeah my friend has been telling me this morning that I shouldn't get adapters because it'll create too much stress on the hubs and can seriously mess up my wheels. He said I would be better off either getting extended studs and spacers or scrapping that whole deal and just buying wider wheels. The latter is not an option with budget right now so would extended studs and maybe a 15mm spacer work fine?

 

My wheels are 7.5 wide. No issues running the adapters. It's been 4 years.

 

You on 1 inch adapters?

 

thats good to hear, i was wondering if anyone had ran them for a long time

the stress part i was referring to was more along the lines of going thru the canyons and hitting the track.

but u are proof they can with stand over time

06_CobaltLS - spacers with extended studs or adapters hmmm idk haha

 

Arp studs and spacers. Don't hold your wheel on with aluminum.

 

Good enough for me. I'll buy some spacers and studs before too long. Thanks.

 

always get hubcentric, unless you just can't afford the slight increase in price...

the ring on the hub centers the wheel. so if you're running adapters it's the same concept. you want the adapters to be centered on your hubs, so when your wheels are centered on your adapters everything is in line. if the adapters are slightly offcentered on the hubs, and then the wheels are slightly off on the adapters. everything is now very far off and you will have horrible wheel shake along premature axle and hub wear.

stock studs are 1.5" from hub surface to the end of the stud. but only 1.125" is threads, the last .375" is just metal. so you've got 1.125" of usable threads, but you've got to put the rotor on, so theres .3125" of rotor which brings the usable threads now down to .8125" or 13/16" of threaded stud.

but you've got that .375" of metal on the end sticking out. so after you put the rotor on, your usable threaded length is .8125" or 13/16" and the overall length is 1.1875 or 1 3/16". so you'll need at least a 1 3/16"(1.1875") thick adapter if you don't want to shave down your stock studs.

however.. lol. remember that .375"of metal at the end? well .375" > .1875" so if you want to run a 1" spacer you can shave .1875" off the .375"s of metal on the end of the stud and still have all your threads along with .1875" of metal before the threads. you won't be cutting threads until you cut that .375" of metal off.

have i confused you yet? good haha. cause you didn't need to read past the last sentence of my first paragraph where i said when rotor and hub are mated together, you have .8125" of thread on the stock studs. so, assuming the nut your are going to use to tighten those adapters doesn't come past the surface of the adapter. you can run a .8125" thickness, cut the excess metal off the end of your studs and still have every thread on there for when you don't run the adapters.

but since your question was shaving them down at all. that would be leaving the metal on the end and your length is 1.1875".

CLIFF NOTES!!!!
no thinner than 1.1875" if you don't want to touch your studs at all
no thinner than .8125" if you want to cut the ends of them but not effect the ability to go back to stock.


extended studs + spacer still brings the load out the same length as an adapter does. the only draw back though is that the spacer is just sandwiched in between the hub and the lugnut now and the wheel is clamped on further away from the hub. with adapters the adapters bolt on right snug next to the hub and the wheel bolts on the adapter so it's all nice and tight and even loads. that's why companies only make spacers X thick, and beyond that require an adapter, even if it's the same bolt pattern adapter..

ARP studs are used purpose built for their tinsel strength, mainly for drag racing and road racing. but with the high tinsel strength comes the advantage of what i was just explaining, i don't know of anyone doing it, but they "should" be able to handle the lug nuts being further out with the spacer like i mentioned in the paragraph above. imo i wouldn't run a spacer larger than 1/2" stock studs, 3/4" on arps.



/midnightrantpost.