08 ss spudder problem
08 ss spudder problem
i have a 2008 ss with a few mods
catless dp
cai
upper charge pipe with hks bov(dont hate im getting rid of it)
muffler delete
and Nick from BYT tuned it.
When i no-lift from 3rd to 4th on the highway as soon as i let off the clutch the car says F-YOU! and spudders like crazy but if i dont no lift it doesnt do it and if i take my foot off the gas quick and put it back to WOT it will stop and continue accelerating like normal.
sometimes the check engine light blinks.... any ideas guys? this only happens from 3rd to 4th.
catless dp
cai
upper charge pipe with hks bov(dont hate im getting rid of it)
muffler delete
and Nick from BYT tuned it.
When i no-lift from 3rd to 4th on the highway as soon as i let off the clutch the car says F-YOU! and spudders like crazy but if i dont no lift it doesnt do it and if i take my foot off the gas quick and put it back to WOT it will stop and continue accelerating like normal.
sometimes the check engine light blinks.... any ideas guys? this only happens from 3rd to 4th.
ya i havnt done it since it happened other than just checkin to see if it was a one time thing. thats why im asking on here lol
So cylinder misfire hmm.
maybe i have a foul plug because it wasn't tuned and the air-fuel wasn't the best?
i just want to figure this out. cant have that at the track.
So cylinder misfire hmm.
maybe i have a foul plug because it wasn't tuned and the air-fuel wasn't the best?
i just want to figure this out. cant have that at the track.
i had this issue and thought it was a fuel problem. i brought the car with mods on it, afetr having the problem presist after replacing my fuel pump i had the car dynoed...found out my spark plug gap was way off like 62 on one plug (#3 the misfire cylinder) and like 50ish on the other 3 after re-gapping the pulls and a few runs she still running a lil leane air/fuel is like 13.8-14.5 but the spudder is completly gone!!
put new plus in it autolight platinum and gaped them to .032 and it stillllll does it. my check engine light blinks when i flat foot from 3rd to 4th but it doesnt do it if i dont flat foot... i just dont get it.
i have those autolite now and they r TRASH... my gap is lik 28-30 i cant remember it was all out of wacc thought they were pre gapped. NAPA tried to give me some denso plugs but didnt buy them and this guy tried to talk me into NGk racing plugs i would hav got them but the book he was lookin in was NGK catalog from 2002-2003 so i just went to autozone and ordered the NKG iridium lX's. i hav no flashin CEL or spudder
the plugs didnt make a difference. im throwing a p0128 code too. would the thermostst being bad cause it to do this becasue its not letting it get to the right temp. it usually runs at like 165-175 degrees all day.
Mine sputters from 1st to 2nd sound crazy bad if I'm wot but never does it in any other gears, just 1st to 2nd if I'm going as crazy as I can and even then it doesn't happen all the time.. Pretty stupid not gonna lie
it was doing it with teh factory ac delcos. and the plugs it it now didnt make a difference at all. it onnly does it sometimes. and and im tuned at 25psi and i hit it on the spot every time in third gear.
its weird it only does it from 3rd to fourth and like i said if i just shift really fast but dont flat foot it doesnt do it
its weird it only does it from 3rd to fourth and like i said if i just shift really fast but dont flat foot it doesnt do it
Last edited by 518SS/TC; Dec 17, 2011 at 06:59 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You can have a boost leak and still build full boost, you just lose air volume and overwork your turbo. If those plugs helped then its likely your stock plugs were shot. The autolites are crap. Also try cleaning your mass air flow sensor with ONLY the cleaner for them from an autoparts store. Just spray all over it and shake it dry. The mass air flow sensor is the thing with the connector on it in your cold air intake. You will likely need an allen head wrench to take it out.
I'm having cylinder misfire problems also on my LSJ. Mostly it happens when I get to 7K rpm. I tested my car with a new MAF and still had the problem but it was less noticeable. I will change the plugs and see if it helps.
be careful!
oh, and 140 DEGREES not MPH hahahah
Last edited by SprChrg4Life; Jan 22, 2012 at 11:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Always let a car get to operating temps before ripping thru the gears! a 3-4 shift is around 100mph, and you're pushing it hard... let it get to at least 140, 150 before you go all out. after 140, you're at 160-170 in what 30 more seconds? go easy on that peddle and report back 
oh, and 140 DEGREES not MPH hahahah
oh, and 140 DEGREES not MPH hahahah


