09' LNF on the side of the road & Build Thread
Update its back on the cradle ready for tranny fluid.
Advice for anyone changing a clutch the TOB has 3 torx bolts on it that WILL 100% strip. Every guide says they are a T30 but they are closer to a T35 and are butter after 60k miles. I stripped all 3. If you do strip the. My best way of getting them out was tack welding an old hex key wrench to the tops and twisting them out then breaking the bolt off. Everything else went peachy.
I actually had to re use the banjo bolts with the upgrade kit.
Update: Radiator is on, lower charge pipe is on. Still need to figure out which hoses go to the manual boost controller knob. Contacting a chevy dealership in the town I work in for trans fluid then once it has trans fluid its going back into the car. If the dealership has fluid then it goes in tomorrow after work.
Update: Radiator is on, lower charge pipe is on. Still need to figure out which hoses go to the manual boost controller knob. Contacting a chevy dealership in the town I work in for trans fluid then once it has trans fluid its going back into the car. If the dealership has fluid then it goes in tomorrow after work.
Any idea what this is or if it even goes to our cars? It was in the pile of parts my mechanic gave me after he tore the head off... is it the turbo brace? Trying to figure out if it goes back on or not
HELP!! There are 2 hot wires that connect to the fuse box red jumper spot the one goes back to the battery and the other hooks to something in the engine bay. Where does that second one hook? I can't remember where it hooks to from the fuse box. does it go to the top bolt on the starter?
Last edited by crashher0; Jun 12, 2014 at 09:14 AM.
Got it all hooked up ready to go, started her got her purring like a beaut... go to bleed the clutch and after 50 pedal pushes clutch fluid starts rolling out the bottom of my trans while bleeding the slave...
I am guessing the banjo on the TOB isn't tight enough or secured enough... so I get to yank the trans out the side since everything is hooked up to it already.
Pissin me off, about ready to drag it to a mech and say here you fix the clutch.
Edit: TOB was bad, fluid pours out the back side of it. It was a green TOB which I have read a decent amount of others have been having problems with.
I am guessing the banjo on the TOB isn't tight enough or secured enough... so I get to yank the trans out the side since everything is hooked up to it already.
Pissin me off, about ready to drag it to a mech and say here you fix the clutch.
Edit: TOB was bad, fluid pours out the back side of it. It was a green TOB which I have read a decent amount of others have been having problems with.
Last edited by crashher0; Jun 18, 2014 at 09:07 AM.
I am beyond pissed off right now. Got the TOB when I got home from work. I installed it torqued it down and got ready to put the trans back in. The side pull method is a crock of ****. My dad and I were both wrangling the trans to get it back in and something would not align up to save our lives. So now I have the cradle off the engine lowered because I can't unhook the fuel line and the transmission is sitting next to the car.
Everything went as planned... Finally, Just have to bleed brakes, put the front wheels, bumper, and hood on and she will be ready for a much needed bath. Also installed my new Stance SS coilovers, rears look sweet so far.
Would update with pics but my phone broke the other day so as soon as I get home sunday I will take pics with a camera and upload.
Would update with pics but my phone broke the other day so as soon as I get home sunday I will take pics with a camera and upload.
Brought her out for some fresh air today she sounds mighty fine no knock, missfires, or anything else while I rolled her around. Having a problem with the brakes though. Figured out I put the brembos on the wrong sides. (Bleeders are facing down) and I am not keeping brake pressure on the first push so I'm gonna put her back up on ramps tomorrow and switch around the brembos and attempt to bleed them again. She looks good all lowered, almost couldn't get the jack out from under until I did the 2x4 under the wheel trick. Also gave her a bath right after this. Birds did a number all over it while it was in the barn for so long.
OK washed her up, got the brake issue figured out. Drove it down the road about 1/4 of a mile and back and when i got back it had a little bit of smoke coming out of the tailpipe at idle then when I tapped the gas it would blow a little more and oil pressure would bounce around between 60-80 psi.
Is it just oil from the engine being broke in or is oil getting by or something? Its a brand new LDK first half mile on it today.
Is it just oil from the engine being broke in or is oil getting by or something? Its a brand new LDK first half mile on it today.
OK washed her up, got the brake issue figured out. Drove it down the road about 1/4 of a mile and back and when i got back it had a little bit of smoke coming out of the tailpipe at idle then when I tapped the gas it would blow a little more and oil pressure would bounce around between 60-80 psi.
Is it just oil from the engine being broke in or is oil getting by or something? Its a brand new LDK first half mile on it today.
Is it just oil from the engine being broke in or is oil getting by or something? Its a brand new LDK first half mile on it today.
Its no where near the amount of smoke as when my first engine blew up so i dont feel as bad about it, but its just a slight bit rolling out under idle.
I have only heat cycled the engine 2 times since putting it in, once last night when i drove it down the road and then again this morning i started it up and let it idle for 10 min to get up to temps then I had to go to work.
Oil pressure seems normal, It doesnt rapidly heat up or anything, but just a little smoke rolls out the back. Its grayish in color, and Since the turbo is new also I was wondering if there was maybe oil inside the housing or even inside the engine that needed worked out.
I am going to heat cycle it again tonight and drive it further to make sure the rings are set but i was told by zzp that these dont need to be broke in like a fresh rebuild, Just light driving for a few hundred miles.
I have only heat cycled the engine 2 times since putting it in, once last night when i drove it down the road and then again this morning i started it up and let it idle for 10 min to get up to temps then I had to go to work.
Oil pressure seems normal, It doesnt rapidly heat up or anything, but just a little smoke rolls out the back. Its grayish in color, and Since the turbo is new also I was wondering if there was maybe oil inside the housing or even inside the engine that needed worked out.
I am going to heat cycle it again tonight and drive it further to make sure the rings are set but i was told by zzp that these dont need to be broke in like a fresh rebuild, Just light driving for a few hundred miles.
Again like I said.. if the motor blew apart there's still stuff burning in the exhausts..... You need to get the exhausts hot to burn it off. Drive it for half and hour or more if you have time and accelerate quite a bit. You don't ha e to go wot
Thats what i am really hoping it is since i had quite a bit of oil/gunk rolling through the MPx downpipe when i took it off. But i replaced the downpipe with the bigger so maybe it is just junk in the catback, maybe my resonator has some build up in it.
Havent posted in a while so i figured I would give an update, Car is running great! almost 1000 miles on it. Going to get the AC re filled today. Have yet to get it tuned but have just changed jobs and moved states so thats been put on hold for a while still. It starts up rough because of the maf relocation but after it warms up it runs very nice. 3-5lbs of boost is nice but makes me want to get it tuned and see what this 256LDK combo can really do,
Stance SS coilovers have been tuned by my buddy and it rides great, my girlfriend thinks it rides rough but I think it ides great for coils.
smoke has gone away except when it starts up and burbles and coughs a bit then its good.
Stance SS coilovers have been tuned by my buddy and it rides great, my girlfriend thinks it rides rough but I think it ides great for coils.
smoke has gone away except when it starts up and burbles and coughs a bit then its good.
Alright Tune date is set for October 3rd. While emailing back and forth with ZZP Tim tells me that the LDK is limited to around 350whp due to weak rods. All I have read is Regals blowing rods are LDK rods any different? Why would they advertise on their site that the engine can hold up to 500hp when in actuality they are having rods blow at much lower hp?
I have read a few threads but its starting to scare me that my perspective 400+ hp goals are now being shot down to 350whp or dumping another $1000 in just parts into the bottom end before attempting anything past 350.
I swear if all I can get out of this is 350hp I am going to sell this thing, too much headache for what I have put into it.
I have read a few threads but its starting to scare me that my perspective 400+ hp goals are now being shot down to 350whp or dumping another $1000 in just parts into the bottom end before attempting anything past 350.
I swear if all I can get out of this is 350hp I am going to sell this thing, too much headache for what I have put into it.
Alright Tune date is set for October 3rd. While emailing back and forth with ZZP Tim tells me that the LDK is limited to around 350whp due to weak rods. All I have read is Regals blowing rods are LDK rods any different? Why would they advertise on their site that the engine can hold up to 500hp when in actuality they are having rods blow at much lower hp?
I have read a few threads but its starting to scare me that my perspective 400+ hp goals are now being shot down to 350whp or dumping another $1000 in just parts into the bottom end before attempting anything past 350.
I swear if all I can get out of this is 350hp I am going to sell this thing, too much headache for what I have put into it.
I have read a few threads but its starting to scare me that my perspective 400+ hp goals are now being shot down to 350whp or dumping another $1000 in just parts into the bottom end before attempting anything past 350.
I swear if all I can get out of this is 350hp I am going to sell this thing, too much headache for what I have put into it.
wow what a story
There are a lot of posts of the ldk being no good due to gm going cheapy on the rods.
I'm 3 hours from zzp the opposite way, IMHO, zzp owes you a free install on new rods, you pay for the rods.
You should have done a clean block build, imo, regardless zzp says 500hp.
From what i read matt is a good guy, i have both a stock regal turbo and a 2010 ss, i also know the rod issue is a newish discovery. Read the blown regal thread with the gm tech guy.
I bet zzp would help you out, if not i want your car to finish!




