ive made posts on here before for these same problems, but havent been able to solve my problems. first off i have a cai on my car, and aftermarket intercooler and hot and cold side piping. all winter i have no problems with my car really at all . i had my forge bpv not wanting to open alot and switched to my bov. i had an ocasional p0101 code, but no big deal. last sumer my car acted up all the time popping codes for the maf P0101 and codes for map sensors, going into limp mode. ive replaced my map sensors cleaned my maf but keep having these issues. during the winter the car is just fine, but everytime it starts getting warm out the car is nothing but problems. if yall need any more info let me know. i know my car needs a tune, but how is it that as l;ong as its cold out its fine, then it warms up and there are nothing but problems. my car has had these problems since i bought it before any modding by the way, mought it during cold season.

 

Ok i got this. What CAI you got?

Secondly, P0101 is a boost leak, which is very likely since every portion of your piping and intercooler has been changed.

I'm guessing the pipes get warm and you have a boost leak.

This is very common on SS/TC. So do a boost leak test or check for leaks at all fittings.

 

See my sig for boost leak instructions. Get good at it..........you'll need it.

Stock TMAP and MAP sensors or 3 bars?

 

ditch the bov.

 

yeah I've been told by many to avoid B.O.V's ...apparently they leak and you have to be tuned? I still want one though

 

People buy the cheap **** ones and complain when they leak. If your going for a big turbo setup at least buy a good one and not some tial q ripoff. If your stock turbo don't bother.

 

I preach this but nobody listens.

 

Stock turbo? Get a K&N SRI and call it a day, forget that BOV.

 

I have a stock turbo and I've checked for boost leaks I know what thats like. No boost leaks. It does this with stock bpv,forge bpv and bov. This only happens when it gets nice out. And I have gms1 upgrade. As well as codes p0101 and map sensor codes it pops codes that have absolutely no meaning like as in you look through sites for obd2 cel codes and there are no such codes. It will even kick a code for bus communication error or something like that. All of these problems start up as soon as the outdoor temperature starts getting nice or hot.
I have replaced my bcm as well. A couple years ago I took my car to a dealership and the messed with it for days and even at one point said my turbo was broken then said it wasn't... they charged me money and gave me my car back exactly how it was except with a nice shiny new plastic airbox they replaced trying to fix the issue. A week later I figured out I had a clogged cat which I cleaned out.

 

Oh also I bought my car during winter time and never had any issues. This stuff was happening before any intercooler or piping or intake changes once it got warm out. When I bought my car the only things done to it was a short throw shifter and gm stage 1 other than that it even had the original factory tires on it. Main reason im looking on here is I've taken it to a dealership and they were completely clueless. I mean they might as well have asked me if it was a car or a truck. They also were supposed to replace the power steering pump because of the recall, however the power steering still cuts out from time to time and sometimes randomly jerks one way or the other while im driving straight not acellerating, and I've still gotten things in. The mail about the recall for it asking me to schedule for it to be replaced...

 

Sounds like an issue with MAP or MAF sensor wiring.

As for the steering wheel jerking. If you could get that on video, GM will go out of their way to fix it.

 

I want to get my car tuned but last thing I wanna do is pay that kind of money for a tune to find out my. Ecm is fucked or something. I live in the real world without mom and dad to pay my way so yeah

 

Yeah don't get tuned until you figure this out.

 

Yeah the wiring to the upgraded map sensors look like a hack job, and as I said I have replaced my sensors from crate engine depot. My cai is one I got on ebay not a k&n or injen. Sorry but its a piece of pipe with an air filter on it I dont see why people should have to pay so much for it. And most all of these problems existed before the mods I have done to my car and do not occur on a regular basis. Almost never when it is cold outside and when its warm/hot out its spreattic some days no issues some days it goes into limp mode every other block. Resetting the cel sometimes works sometimes doesnt. Sometimes I reset it and it come right back other times I reset it and it goes away for a few days.

 

TIME OUT.

Our cars ******* hate different cold air intakes. What are your fuel trims with your current intake setup?

I understand what you mean by "it's just a pipe", but that is now how the Cobalt SS turbo acts. It will not take any pipe and make due. Many intakes like Hahn will make the car do all kinds of funky ass things. It's likely your ebay intake is shifting your fuel trims as much as 15-20% or worse.

 

Best bet it to get the plug and play connectors front crate engine depot, $100 well spent as that is most likely 100% your problem if you say they are hack jobbed.

Since you aren't tuned, you intake does absolutely nothing, in fact any intake does nothing but make cool sounds on a stock turbo. People preach 5-10hp but that is within margin of error and weather related.

Get rid of the shitty intake and filter and go back to stock. There is a reason everyone runs a K&N and it's not because it's just pipe.

Can you list every single code that has happened in the last 6 months? This will help narrow it down.

get your car running right before you tune it, get all your maintenance done as well.

 

I hear what you are saying about the cold air intake, but these problems rxisted with stock intake and ic and piping and I dont understand how all these problems go away all winter when its cold and all come back when it gets warm out. If it was fuel trims being thrown off by the intake or a bov. Or even a map sensor I'd like to think it would be a constant thing no matter the outside temperature. I also forgot to mention that in addition to these problems my gauges will also sometimes die and my traction control will go out. But as stated above all there problems wait till it is nice and warm out to pop up. I've dealt with boost leaks before and the car acted like a bucking bronco and would build and drop boost followed by limp mode. I will try to get codes listed here in a minute

 

Tuned? Sounds like you need a retune for said mods or it was tuned in very cold weather, if you don't have a tune then you need one or go back to stock.

 

Do you have any way to log fuel trims?

 

It is not tuned. Here are the cel logs. Ill have to look to see if I can map fuel trims.

Current Fault Log
------------------
P0106: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected

Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged

End of report.

I know the catalytic convertor code is for the cleaned out cats on the stock downpipe not a big deal and the other codes could be explained by having the mods I have without a tune, but there are others that pop up from time to time but all of which only rear their ugly heads when the weather gets nice to hot out. I want to get this tuned but want to be very certain it is not an electrical or an ecu problem before wasting my time and money. I can tell you while watching air fuel trims and driving its not very spreattic till it pops a code then it goes way off. And I will reiterate this only happens while the temperature outside starts getting nice or hot. Thats what has made me think a possible ecu or electrical problem. Also when I had the problem with my cat being clogged things under the hood got nice and toasty, much more than normal, and my car had a hood liner installed when I first bought it which I know wasn't from the factory.

 

Bad MAP sensor
Water/dirt intrusion affecting MAP sensor connector
Intermittent open in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
Intermittent short in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
Ground problem due to corrosion causing intermittent signal problem
Bad PCM

But as we said, the first thing you want to do is go back to stock intake while diagnosing the car. Next clean the MAP sensor. Check MAP sensor wiring. Then replace MAP sensors.

P0420 is NBD as you said.

 

Ok well I have maf cleaner ill give that a go and as for the map sensor does anyone have an idea of what the values should be if I checked it with a multimeter with the car on. Like if I were to check the plugs

 

Can't speak for everyone but I have a HAHN intake and the cars running fine, fitment was good to.

 

my money is on map sensor fault.

 

What are your fuel trims with Hahn? Most have bad issues with their intake.