1-2nd NLS ENGINE LIGHT?
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
1-2nd NLS ENGINE LIGHT?
Okay well i have NLS multiple times and had no issues.
Today i was driving home and i live somewhat out in the country and there is a long straight road so i slowed down to almost a stop turned traction control off and floored it i NLS into second gear and the tires spun and then grabed then the car started sputtering then the Engine light started flashing. It flashed multiple times then turned off and hasnt come on since. Oh yeah i shifted around 5800 rpm.
Has anyone had this happen to them? Did i mess something up?
Today i was driving home and i live somewhat out in the country and there is a long straight road so i slowed down to almost a stop turned traction control off and floored it i NLS into second gear and the tires spun and then grabed then the car started sputtering then the Engine light started flashing. It flashed multiple times then turned off and hasnt come on since. Oh yeah i shifted around 5800 rpm.
Has anyone had this happen to them? Did i mess something up?
Mine has done the same thing but only when it's not up to operating temps...even if the coolant temp was at 180 the car would still misfire while NLS. Fully warmed up it hasn't done it to me.
I had that happen before I was tuned and raised the rev limiter. NLS 1-2, you prob over-revved it causing the misfire when the fuel hit cutoff. It's hard to catch 1-2 right when the tach needle rises slower than the rpm's do.
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From: Grosse Pointe Woods, MI
Okay well i have NLS multiple times and had no issues.
Today i was driving home and i live somewhat out in the country and there is a long straight road so i slowed down to almost a stop turned traction control off and floored it i NLS into second gear and the tires spun and then grabed then the car started sputtering then the Engine light started flashing. It flashed multiple times then turned off and hasnt come on since. Oh yeah i shifted around 5800 rpm.
Has anyone had this happen to them? Did i mess something up?
Today i was driving home and i live somewhat out in the country and there is a long straight road so i slowed down to almost a stop turned traction control off and floored it i NLS into second gear and the tires spun and then grabed then the car started sputtering then the Engine light started flashing. It flashed multiple times then turned off and hasnt come on since. Oh yeah i shifted around 5800 rpm.
Has anyone had this happen to them? Did i mess something up?
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
no Messege came up! It was about 90 degrees outside and i shifted about 5800 RPM and got mad wheel spin.
It sounds like its just a misfire like everyone says the car is running great still no Engine Light.
It sounds like its just a misfire like everyone says the car is running great still no Engine Light.
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From: London, Ontario
I have some theories on why the NLS is causing some people troubles and not others, but the wheelspin is an interesting one. I can see a misfire I suppose if the NLS algorithm is still in play when TC kicks in (but it shouldn't be imo), or I suppose the ECM trying to limit HP/TQ which jumps sky high when you spin, but are these the only conditions? Aren't misifire typically indicative of a lean condition which would indicate the amount of fuel being pushed is being cut back resulting in the misfire being raised?
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From: Tejas
I agree that it's a misfire. Happened to me on a 2-3 NLS the other day too. You'll get a CEL if two or more misfires occured.
In my case I had two misfires which threw a temporary flashing CEL that went out after about 15 secs. I had a general misfire code, misfire on 2, and misfire on 3.
To my knowledge, a misfire can happen if it's either too rich or too lean. I wouldn't worry about it unless it happens again or continues happening. NLS 1-2 is particularly hard, so it's probably more likely to happen then too.
In my case I had two misfires which threw a temporary flashing CEL that went out after about 15 secs. I had a general misfire code, misfire on 2, and misfire on 3.
To my knowledge, a misfire can happen if it's either too rich or too lean. I wouldn't worry about it unless it happens again or continues happening. NLS 1-2 is particularly hard, so it's probably more likely to happen then too.
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From: London, Ontario
I agree that it's a misfire. Happened to me on a 2-3 NLS the other day too. You'll get a CEL if two or more misfires occured.
In my case I had two misfires which threw a temporary flashing CEL that went out after about 15 secs. I had a general misfire code, misfire on 2, and misfire on 3.
To my knowledge, a misfire can happen if it's either too rich or too lean. I wouldn't worry about it unless it happens again or continues happening. NLS 1-2 is particularly hard, so it's probably more likely to happen then too.
In my case I had two misfires which threw a temporary flashing CEL that went out after about 15 secs. I had a general misfire code, misfire on 2, and misfire on 3.
To my knowledge, a misfire can happen if it's either too rich or too lean. I wouldn't worry about it unless it happens again or continues happening. NLS 1-2 is particularly hard, so it's probably more likely to happen then too.
- Loss of spark
- Loss of compression (ie. leaking head gasket, etc.)
- AFR is so far out of whack that ignition cannot properly take place
I'd imagine in 99% of cases where people see it during a NLS its number 3 but I could see it being number 1 under specific circumstances. Like I said, I have my theories (and will not test them on mine
) but I'm curious if Bill can address why a misfire is considered "normal" under the previous conditions I may be on the right track, or again may be completely off 
.
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From: Tejas
Here's a write up about NLS that one of the Solstice/Sky guys did after getting their stage kit. He also found that spinning tires led to a mis-NLS:
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...tml#post794236
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...tml#post794236
I am normally just a lurker on this forum, because I am a Sky owner. But I thought I would help out my Solstice brothers and sisters with the NLS. It does work, but it is not a rev limiter. It actually inhibits spark for .2 seconds and opens up the variable valve timing at the same moment. Thus allowing the turbo to maintain full boost during the shift. But it only engages at about 6300 RPM. So it is definitely not intended for daily driving.
Things to watch for when trying the No Lift Shift:
1. Must be between about 6300-6500 RPM. If you touch the 6500, then rev limiter kicks in before you disengage the clutch, no work. If you are not up to 6300, then No Lift function does not engage, no work. So a very narrow window of opportunity. The RPM is a big one, because everyone thinks this thing is another rev limiter and try making it work at lower RPMS, then the engine just spools up to redline when you disengage the clutch and NLS does not engage.
2. Tires CAN NOT be spinning, or lack of traction of any kind, before you hit the clutch, or no work. So things will be a lot easier next summer with the correct tires on and warm roads. Right now for me, it is almost impossible catching everything just right going from 1st to 2nd, because it is just too easy to have some tire slippage in 1st.
3. It is easy to subconsciously lift your foot off the gas pedal ever so slightly, if you do, no work. Keep in mind that I have owned a hot rod my entire life, and I consider myself quite adept at power shifting. And even this one is tough for me. Normal power shifting, you feather the gas in the middle of the shift. With this system you have to keep the pedal mashed to the floor.
4. Once you are used to it, you will hear a little exhaust pop when the unburnt gas ignites in the CAT during the NLS. Depending on your exhaust set up, the pop may not be that noticeable to you at the beginning. So forget about that for now and concentrate on the boost gauge. If you get it to work, the boost will not drop, it kind of flickers for a split second, but I don’t think I have seen it drop more than 1 lb, if at all, when I catch it correctly.
5. If you have advanced the WG adjustment to get more boost, then you may want to take it back to stock for a while. That will make things easier, because with the WG shortened up your turbo is spooling up so fast that you are tending to spin the tires easier.
6. For God’s sake, be in a safe wide-open area when trying this until you are used to it. For that matter, one really should save this stuff for the track. LOL
7. Must be in Competitive Mode. (It may work in “Traction Off” setting, I don't know for sure, I haven't tried that one. But I do know it WILL NOT work in the regular setting because you are fighting the nanny to much. And I don't think they have it programmed to work in regular mode anyway).
Here is a quote from one of the write ups about the function of NLS, I believe it was about the Cobalt version:
"The car also allows a no-lift shift — in all gears, any time the car is at full throttle. Near the 6300-rpm limiter, simply shift without lifting off the throttle. The system will selectively cut spark and phase the variable camshafts, thereby holding boost pressure and rpm. The ingenious anti-lag can be maintained for roughly 0.2 second. A single pop! from the exhaust is the sound of a quick shift."
With the GM upgrade in our cars, they raised the rev limit to 6500. So what has been working for me is to watch the tach close and when it hits the redline (old limit of 6300) then make the shift. You have to be fast, but it does work and it is pretty fricken neat.
I hope this helps.
Things to watch for when trying the No Lift Shift:
1. Must be between about 6300-6500 RPM. If you touch the 6500, then rev limiter kicks in before you disengage the clutch, no work. If you are not up to 6300, then No Lift function does not engage, no work. So a very narrow window of opportunity. The RPM is a big one, because everyone thinks this thing is another rev limiter and try making it work at lower RPMS, then the engine just spools up to redline when you disengage the clutch and NLS does not engage.
2. Tires CAN NOT be spinning, or lack of traction of any kind, before you hit the clutch, or no work. So things will be a lot easier next summer with the correct tires on and warm roads. Right now for me, it is almost impossible catching everything just right going from 1st to 2nd, because it is just too easy to have some tire slippage in 1st.
3. It is easy to subconsciously lift your foot off the gas pedal ever so slightly, if you do, no work. Keep in mind that I have owned a hot rod my entire life, and I consider myself quite adept at power shifting. And even this one is tough for me. Normal power shifting, you feather the gas in the middle of the shift. With this system you have to keep the pedal mashed to the floor.
4. Once you are used to it, you will hear a little exhaust pop when the unburnt gas ignites in the CAT during the NLS. Depending on your exhaust set up, the pop may not be that noticeable to you at the beginning. So forget about that for now and concentrate on the boost gauge. If you get it to work, the boost will not drop, it kind of flickers for a split second, but I don’t think I have seen it drop more than 1 lb, if at all, when I catch it correctly.
5. If you have advanced the WG adjustment to get more boost, then you may want to take it back to stock for a while. That will make things easier, because with the WG shortened up your turbo is spooling up so fast that you are tending to spin the tires easier.
6. For God’s sake, be in a safe wide-open area when trying this until you are used to it. For that matter, one really should save this stuff for the track. LOL
7. Must be in Competitive Mode. (It may work in “Traction Off” setting, I don't know for sure, I haven't tried that one. But I do know it WILL NOT work in the regular setting because you are fighting the nanny to much. And I don't think they have it programmed to work in regular mode anyway).
Here is a quote from one of the write ups about the function of NLS, I believe it was about the Cobalt version:
"The car also allows a no-lift shift — in all gears, any time the car is at full throttle. Near the 6300-rpm limiter, simply shift without lifting off the throttle. The system will selectively cut spark and phase the variable camshafts, thereby holding boost pressure and rpm. The ingenious anti-lag can be maintained for roughly 0.2 second. A single pop! from the exhaust is the sound of a quick shift."
With the GM upgrade in our cars, they raised the rev limit to 6500. So what has been working for me is to watch the tach close and when it hits the redline (old limit of 6300) then make the shift. You have to be fast, but it does work and it is pretty fricken neat.
I hope this helps.
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From: London, Ontario
That might explain why I've had no issues with mine; I only ever do the 2nd to 3rd (1->2 very rarely, 3rd->4th a handful of times, but at that point I'm moving retarded fast for not being on a track 
). The wheelspin one I still can't explain, but I think a lot of people aren't factoring in a few things on here when they do it, his explanation touched on it (this is to add to the thread, not directed at you specifically of course ):
As for the wheelspin the only thing I can think of is the car knows it's spinning and not travelling forward (since the BCM is reading g-forces) so even though you're redlined, it does NOT allow NLS to engage for the sake of saving the transmission, axles, etc since the forward momentum, speed and revs won't match up. I'd almost hate to see what a NLS feels like when you're spinning like a mother (i've never even tried it while spinning) if it DID work, talk about shock throughout the entire car!
Anyways, those are my thoughts/theories; I think the modules are doing more in the background than most of us think about but from a physics perspective it makes perfect sense for the sake of saving the vehicle's components.
). The wheelspin one I still can't explain, but I think a lot of people aren't factoring in a few things on here when they do it, his explanation touched on it (this is to add to the thread, not directed at you specifically of course ):- The window on the TC is also small, but note that the tach does somewhat lag behind. If I hit it about 5800/5900 it does it perfectly every single time, no questions asked but I'm not convinced the tach is bang on the same on every single TC. Experiment with your points, you'll get it .
- If you even tap that limiter at the same time as you're attempting to NLS I am convinced the ECM takes a dump because it's attempting to limit revs and on top of that NLS mode is engaged. I'm not sure how these algorithms are handled (*cough* more GM input please ) but the super misfires you hear on video clips sounds more live a rev limiter than a NLS, my guess is the ECM doesn't know how to recover from both since they would have conflicting inputs; just a thought.
- As most of us now know, he mentions having to be in compeitive mode which is not the case. On our cruise yesterday to a local meet I NLS'd from 2nd to 3rd on the highway no problem with Traction Control and Stability Control enabled; the stage 2 SC following me was witness to that, first time he'd heard it to the best of my knowledge .
As for the wheelspin the only thing I can think of is the car knows it's spinning and not travelling forward (since the BCM is reading g-forces) so even though you're redlined, it does NOT allow NLS to engage for the sake of saving the transmission, axles, etc since the forward momentum, speed and revs won't match up. I'd almost hate to see what a NLS feels like when you're spinning like a mother (i've never even tried it while spinning) if it DID work, talk about shock throughout the entire car!
Anyways, those are my thoughts/theories; I think the modules are doing more in the background than most of us think about but from a physics perspective it makes perfect sense for the sake of saving the vehicle's components.
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From: Tejas
Yeah, some people think that you have to be in Comp Mode to do an NLS. It specifically states in the manual that you can do it in any mode.
That being said, it probably does help to be in any mode other than normal mode, since they would turn the traction off and there wouldn't be a chance of the traction nanny bogging you down.
That being said, it probably does help to be in any mode other than normal mode, since they would turn the traction off and there wouldn't be a chance of the traction nanny bogging you down.
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From: Plainfield, IL
Yeah, some people think that you have to be in Comp Mode to do an NLS. It specifically states in the manual that you can do it in any mode.
That being said, it probably does help to be in any mode other than normal mode, since they would turn the traction off and there wouldn't be a chance of the traction nanny bogging you down.
That being said, it probably does help to be in any mode other than normal mode, since they would turn the traction off and there wouldn't be a chance of the traction nanny bogging you down.
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From: London, Ontario
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From: Grosse Pointe Woods, MI
I have some theories on why the NLS is causing some people troubles and not others, but the wheelspin is an interesting one. I can see a misfire I suppose if the NLS algorithm is still in play when TC kicks in (but it shouldn't be imo), or I suppose the ECM trying to limit HP/TQ which jumps sky high when you spin, but are these the only conditions? Aren't misifire typically indicative of a lean condition which would indicate the amount of fuel being pushed is being cut back resulting in the misfire being raised?
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From: Mississauga
I had the exact same experience. I also went to GM in my area and interestingly enough when they checked the fuel pumps, one of the fuel pumps (apparently there are 2 running 30 psi each?) one wasn't kicking in. It was a very roundabout description but that's what I discerned from the Convo. They also switched my spark plug on cyl. 3 and the coil pack prior to this. It does it on occasion still but it's very rare. Never did it in any gear other than 1-2.
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From: London, Ontario
. Note for TrevMo, I'm still looking for my excerpt on NLS, I requested an 09 manual from the dealer 'cause the '08 had no information about the TC at all, so I may have recycled it almost immediately...but I'll keep lookin .