blinking check engine light blinking
blinking check engine light blinking
ok so after work to day it was raining and as I left the parking lot I gave it some gas so my tires would spin I did this in 2nd and 3rd then going around 50 mph I started to grip and was in 4th. durning this I was giving it about 50% gas then my car made a shitty sounds like I just lost my exhuast and the check engine light started to blink after a few blinks it stopped. I turned my car off then on and it is running great.
what happened?
what happened?
I say u sucked wwter in the intake and the blinking light means,u,r fu**ing the emmisions up mainly the cat. Its saying fix me,before u drive .
ok so after work to day it was raining and as I left the parking lot I gave it some gas so my tires would spin I did this in 2nd and 3rd then going around 50 mph I started to grip and was in 4th. durning this I was giving it about 50% gas then my car made a shitty sounds like I just lost my exhuast and the check engine light started to blink after a few blinks it stopped. I turned my car off then on and it is running great.
what happened?
what happened?
Yeah dude, always let the LNF come up to operating temp before beating on it like that. Thats what the missfires are from most likely. You can start it up and drive off if you like, but dont beat on it til its warm.
It takes less than a minute to get over 100* and its not a theory. The car generally doesnt run well cold. Just try cruising, its jittery
Its not a theory. The LNF DOES NOT like to be driven hard until its up to operating temp, which, on the LNF is at least in the 180's. The OP did a full peel, through third almost, on a not yet ready LNF, thus the missfire.
you guys missed to point , good job on reading what was written.
i know cars run best at operating temp. but when you say" i always wait till its get to 100* to drive it" thats bullshit. like i said on a hot 80* day you start your car an watch the temp go to 100* before you move it? i doubt it, cause you dont need to. you can start the car and drive it, which is what i said. i dodnt say row it through 1st,2nd,and 3rd gear.
i know cars run best at operating temp. but when you say" i always wait till its get to 100* to drive it" thats bullshit. like i said on a hot 80* day you start your car an watch the temp go to 100* before you move it? i doubt it, cause you dont need to. you can start the car and drive it, which is what i said. i dodnt say row it through 1st,2nd,and 3rd gear.
you guys missed to point , good job on reading what was written.
i know cars run best at operating temp. but when you say" i always wait till its get to 100* to drive it" thats bullshit. like i said on a hot 80* day you start your car an watch the temp go to 100* before you move it? i doubt it, cause you dont need to. you can start the car and drive it, which is what i said. i dodnt say row it through 1st,2nd,and 3rd gear.
i know cars run best at operating temp. but when you say" i always wait till its get to 100* to drive it" thats bullshit. like i said on a hot 80* day you start your car an watch the temp go to 100* before you move it? i doubt it, cause you dont need to. you can start the car and drive it, which is what i said. i dodnt say row it through 1st,2nd,and 3rd gear.
With the LNF, yes you can start it up and drive it but it's going to buck and give you hell. With the LNF you have to at least get it out of cat warm-up mode as it's injecting fuel on both the intake and compression stroke. Timing is all kinds of retarded too...
i did the same **** one day and i was told it was that esc thing that the balts have. your trying to floor the car while the "esc active" is on or something like that. could potentally snap an axle?
this is what i was told not positive if its correct or anything.
this is what i was told not positive if its correct or anything.


