08-10 SS Turbocharged General Discussion Discuss the 2008 - 2009 Chevy Cobalt SS Turbocharged. On sale since the second quarter of 2008.

brake bleeding order

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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 12:08 PM
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brake bleeding order

I looked through the whole how to section and found 2 sequences.
Right rear, right front, left rear, left front

Right rear, left front, left rear, right front
Which sequence is the correct one and name your source thanks......brake fluid is dirty and peddle is soft
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 12:34 PM
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Right rear, left front, left rear, right front is the sequence I am used to seeing however I can't be certain as I have never done the procedure on my car.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 01:04 PM
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I was told by a tech to do the farthest to closest. So it would be right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by cmiller8006
I was told by a tech to do the farthest to closest. So it would be right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
I've bn reading the same thing
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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Search for a post by Maven, I swear he said you want to do it on diagnoals due to hour the TCs brake system is setup (ie. rear driver, front passenger, rear passenger, front driver) but I can't remember when I read it...
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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It's diagonals on all cobalts.

I seem to remember

LR
RF
RR
LF

I could be wrong.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 01:24 PM
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From: Dark side of the Moon
Originally Posted by cmiller8006
I was told by a tech to do the farthest to closest. So it would be right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

That's what I remember from the pre-ABS old days, but diagonal ABS systems & controls may dictate otherwise.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 02:12 PM
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You may be right, because that was on my old winter beater.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 09:25 PM
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I've always bled brakes from farthest to closest... ABS or otherwise. I've used pressure bleeding (pedal pumping and flush kit) and gravity bleeding without any problems.

Our ABS system is a 4-wheel independant system, anyways. There's one pump for the whole system and two valves per wheel. These valves can be actuated separately depending on which wheel is locking up. Also a 4 channel ABS system is necessary for stability control to operate properly.

GM hasn't used 2 channel ABS in awhile. Even the Cobalts with rear drums have 3-channel ABS.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cmiller8006
I was told by a tech to do the farthest to closest. So it would be right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Yep, that's what I've always heard. I did this earlier this spring 'cause it didn't feel right. I got some air out of the right front. That sequence worked great for me.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Malaclypse
I've always bled brakes from farthest to closest... ABS or otherwise. I've used pressure bleeding (pedal pumping and flush kit) and gravity bleeding without any problems.

Our ABS system is a 4-wheel independant system, anyways. There's one pump for the whole system and two valves per wheel. These valves can be actuated separately depending on which wheel is locking up. Also a 4 channel ABS system is necessary for stability control to operate properly.

GM hasn't used 2 channel ABS in awhile. Even the Cobalts with rear drums have 3-channel ABS.
How can they have 3 channel ABS when neither wheel is connected in any way to the other??
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 08SSTCRD
How can they have 3 channel ABS when neither wheel is connected in any way to the other??
3 channel ABS is specific to GM vehicles with front disc and rear drum brakes. The front wheels have independant solenoids in the ABS motor pack while the rear brakes are treated as one and cycled together.

The Cobalts also have a brake force proportioning programmed into the EBCM to alter the distribution of brake force between the front and rear brakes. The dynamic rear proportioning part of the EBCM eliminates the proportioning valve found in cars without ABS.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cmiller8006
I was told by a tech to do the farthest to closest. So it would be right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
this is the correct way to bleed brakes
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 09:00 AM
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Tom.G and Permafried nailed it. its a diagonal split system on all Cobalta(even ones without ABS) and the order is RightRear, LeftFront, LeftRear, RightFront. (which if you actually mapped out the plumbing and the cylinder arrangement STILL is farthest to closest, but the farthest and closest doesnt mean the wheels them selves, its the length of plumbing between wheels and master cylinder and master cylinder primary/secondary piston arrangement)


Oh, amd the source is the GM Factory Service Information
Peace.
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Maven
Tom.G and Permafried nailed it. its a diagonal split system on all Cobalta(even ones without ABS) and the order is RightRear, LeftFront, LeftRear, RightFront. (which if you actually mapped out the plumbing and the cylinder arrangement STILL is farthest to closest, but the farthest and closest doesnt mean the wheels them selves, its the length of plumbing between wheels and master cylinder and master cylinder primary/secondary piston arrangement)


Oh, amd the source is the GM Factory Service Information
Peace.


Yup, here's the service procedure (bolded the order)




Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Warning: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Warning in the Preface section.

Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Caution in the Preface section.

•Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder reservoir to catch brake fluid spills.
•With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
•If you have performed a master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you have disconnected the brake pipes from the proportioning valve assembly or the brake modulator assembly, you must perform the following steps to bleed air at the ports of the hydraulic component.
3.1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir (combined with the hydraulic clutch (on manual (transmission) to the maximum-full level with GM approved or equivalent brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.

3.2. With the brake pipes installed securely to the master cylinder, proportioning valve assembly, or the brake modulator assembly, loosen and separate one of the brake pipes from the port of the component.


Note: For the proportioning valve assembly or the brake modulator assembly, perform these steps in the sequence of system flow; begin with the fluid feed pipes on the master cylinder.


3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the component.

3.4. Connect the brake pipe fitting to the component and tighten securely.

3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the brake pedal.

3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe fitting to purge air from the open port of the component.

3.7. Tighten the brake pipe fitting, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.

3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the component.

3.9. With the brake pipe fitting installed securely to the master cylinder, proportioning valve assembly, or brake modulator assembly after all air been purged from the first port of the component that was bled, loosen and separate the next brake pipe from the component and repeat steps 3.3-3.8 until each of the ports on the component has been bled.

3.10. After completing the final component bleeding procedure, ensure each of the brake pipe fittings is properly tightened.

•Fill the master cylinder reservoir and combined hydraulic clutch, if equipped, to the maximum-full level with GM approved or equivalent brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure the master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.

•Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
•Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
•Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved or equivalent brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
•Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the brake pedal.
•Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
•Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
•Wait 15 seconds, the repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
•With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely and after all air has been purged from the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
•For Cobalt SS, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit INBOARD bleeder valve.
•Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
•For Cobalt SS, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit, OUTBOARD bleeder valve.
•For Cobalt SS, install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
•With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely and after all air has been purged from the left front wheel hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
•Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
•With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely and after all air has been purged from the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
•For Cobalt SS, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit INBOARD bleeder valve.
•Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
•For Cobalt SS, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit, OUTBOARD bleeder valve.
•Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
•After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves is properly tightened.
•For Cobalt SS, after completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure each of the 6 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves is properly tightened.
•Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-full level with GM approved or equivalent brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
•Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the brake pedal feel.
•If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal stills feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
28.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.

28.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air which may still be trapped in the system.

•Turn the ignition ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Note: DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.

•If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes.
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 12:05 AM
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I wnt to thank everybody for their input and especially for the correct procedure
I will b doing it sometime soon with the motive products 0108 pressure bleeder
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Old May 26, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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i need a how to on how to bleed the brakes
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Old May 26, 2011 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ericgt79
i need a how to on how to bleed the brakes
post 15.
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Old May 26, 2011 | 01:19 PM
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the two tips on the front brakes are the bleeders?
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Old May 28, 2011 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ericgt79
the two tips on the front brakes are the bleeders?
um, yes and you do the inside one first, then the outside on the fronts. so RR, LF inside, LF outside, LR, RF inside, RF outside.
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Old May 28, 2011 | 10:57 AM
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subd, will needf this when i do my rear disc conversion
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Old May 28, 2011 | 11:16 AM
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Good info here
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Old May 28, 2011 | 11:19 AM
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Don't forget to bleed the clutch while you're at it.
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Old May 28, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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Need to sub in here.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jmdubose202
I wnt to thank everybody for their input and especially for the correct procedure
I will b doing it sometime soon with the motive products 0108 pressure bleeder
Its really easy to build a pressure bleeder yourself.

1 - get the smallest, cheapest garden sprayer you can find
2 - cut the sprayer off (keep the hose)
3 - go to ace/hardware store and get various brass fittings (easy to figure out)
4 - go to autozone/wherever and buy a spare master brake cylinder cap
5 - drill said cap and install brass fittings, seal very well with RTV
6 - attach and pump up, walk around and crack the bleeders on each wheel.

Easy, and should cost around $30. If you build it like Motive builds theirs maybe $45 (adding pressure gauge).

I have built several of these, quick, simple, and work really really well. Once you pressure bleed your brakes you will never do it the "old" way again. Its a one man job, and takes more time to get to the bleeder valves (ramps, jack, etc) then it does to fully bleed and change the fluid completely out.

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