Car hard to shift
Car hard to shift
Basically, new trans and everything, i didnt beat on it for first 2000 miles and i rarely go to red line or shift over 4K
Everything has been shifting fine, but today it has been harder to get in to ALL gears...i thought syncros at first but it is every single gear, itll be hard to go in to gear the it will go in like butter
it is going into chevy in the AM, wtf could it be?
Everything has been shifting fine, but today it has been harder to get in to ALL gears...i thought syncros at first but it is every single gear, itll be hard to go in to gear the it will go in like butter
it is going into chevy in the AM, wtf could it be?
This exact thing happend to my brothers SS. The Dealer replaced his shifting cables. They told him they were seized. He got the repair done for free because it's covered under warranty.
well its at dealership now ill find out
first thing guy says is if its the clutch its not covered, i know its not the clutch and i know its not covered....
its most likely the slave, cause is hasnt really acted up since, maybe some air got into the system -_-
first thing guy says is if its the clutch its not covered, i know its not the clutch and i know its not covered....
its most likely the slave, cause is hasnt really acted up since, maybe some air got into the system -_-
LMFAO GM said my clutch is worn out....hahahahha not.....just trying to get more money out of ******* bastards, i dont blame them, they did do over 5000$ of work for free
there is no slipping, no grab or release problem, i think their mechanics are retarded
there is no slipping, no grab or release problem, i think their mechanics are retarded
It has air trapped in the line causing the clutch to drag. Manually bleed it from the top of the clutch housing 3-4 times and repeat in a few days. It takes a while to get all the air out of the slave on these. I had the same issue after a clutch/slave install on my LNF.
Sounds like it could be different than stock fluid? If you have some other type of trans fluid, it will, change the effort required by the synchros to engage. Although I wouldn't expect that to happen at a dealership, that's usually what causes the issues you are seeing.
ive been doing research to, on different forums and sites, even tho they are liek STi's its still manual, people were saying that when the temp drops the oil gets thicker and makes it harder for the gears to move in smoothly. they said wait longer til the car is at opeerating temps
what exactly is good operating temps on a cold start i usually wait for coolant to be like 135*
i should have also added in the very first post that this only happens on a cold start
what exactly is good operating temps on a cold start i usually wait for coolant to be like 135*
i should have also added in the very first post that this only happens on a cold start
I get stiff shifts when she's cold too. The coolant temp isn't gonna tell you much in terms of the tranny but driving it around and actually putting load on it will warm up the fluid. For me, after 5-10 mins of actual driving it seems much better and I let my car sit and warm up too.
Coolant temp isn't your trans. You could let it idle til the engine is up to normal operating temp (190-210) and your trans, axles, etc will all still be cold. This is why its not very useful for the people who idle the car til its warm then beat on it still break stuff and tell you how they don't understand because the engine was warmed up.
Coolant temp isn't your trans. You could let it idle til the engine is up to normal operating temp (190-210) and your trans, axles, etc will all still be cold. This is why its not very useful for the people who idle the car til its warm then beat on it still break stuff and tell you how they don't understand because the engine was warmed up.
hmmmmm..i have to tell you guys the amount of force i had to use to get into first gear was a pretty decent amount, and when i turned the car off, it kind of didnt want to go in gear either but once in it was fine


