i had jus gotten back from about an hour drive to a 4th of july party...let the car sit for about 30 min before i had to go fill a propane tank so i get in my car and whiole i am driving the oil light came on (the oil in the car doesnt even have 3k miles) and the rpms kept dropping and dropping until ultimately it shut off. it starts n everything now butt still sputters down n turns off i rev the car a bit and all i can smell is fuel! can anybody help

 

any CEL? Either way, just hit up the dealer... that is after you put your car back to stock of course

 

i had a CEL n i hookd it uo to a tech 2 n no codes where thrown....my oil light went onn my car just bogged down n turned off i tried turing it ack on and the same thing happened i was talking to a couple o f my friends n they said somehting might b a prob with an injector...i smell fuel what do u think could be the probelm this is the first time this has happened..y wud a oil light come on?

 

perhaps the oil return line on the turbo?

 

My supercharged Balt was doing some **** like this and it ended up being a bad connection from the battery to the starter it was tripping everything out...took the dealership a whole month to figure it out and $4000 worth of parts and labor

 

hope you get it figured out and fixed

 

The oil light in any car is only good for one thing. It tells when the engine has to be replaced... The threshold on factory oil lights are so low that by the time they come. On, it's too late.

 

you have injectors?!!

 

Twice mine has flashed on. Both times at WOT at the top of 3rd. That was thousands of miles ago. I do understand what you're saying though. Like if it comes on and stays on.

OP - Maybe I missed it and maybe it's just way too obvious but what is your oil level? I realize it had just been changed but you never know. Perhaps it all leaked out somewhere or something.

 

In for answers.



P.S. Holy **** you can't type

 

Entirely possible to have a poppet valve inside the injector get stuck open and leak high pressure fuel into the oil. That would certainly wash out your bearings and cylinder walls.

I could have a better answer if you can tell me what your oil looks and smells like and if it is higher on the stick than it was when you changed it. Also do you change your own oil? If so you do use factory specification only right? And at the correct viscosity. Because if you do not, even with fuel in the oil, your boned because they will send for oil analysis and find out for themselves. With your trifecta tune, your boned as well, because they can see how long ago it was flashed, and flashed back. And GM has advised service departments to monitor enthusiast websites in light of the numerous engine replacements on cars not even two years old. So as I advised in another topic, I'll say this, why are you displaying mods to your car if your car is suddenly having problems?

Another thing, the TECH2 won't display anything if your voltage is too low. For obvious reasons check your battery as someone already said. Get back to me, I'd like to know what condition your oil is in.

 

If it came on at wot, there's some damage. If it stays on and you try to drive, you're totally screwed. They should change it so that if the oil pressure drops, the car shuts down to idle.

 

Unburnt fuel is diluting the oil and this *MAY* be causing a pressure drop. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR.
Not sure what your problem is...take it in or you'll destroy the motor.

 

I know when my oil light comes on, i keep driving it too! *******!

 

Sounds like something electrical burned up to me.

 

I'll repeat my message.

Check your oil level. I'd liek to know how high it is.

 

I believe you. Mine just came on for literally .5-1.0 seconds. Not even enough time for me to really process it and react then it was over. I happened to catch it because my eyes were down there eyeballing the tach for my shift. I mean of course I immediately stopped and checked things. Which, the oil level and condition was fine. I have no idea what made it do it.

 

the car wont stay on i start it it bogs down rpms drop to zero then it turns off maybe stays on for like 1 second so even if i wanted to drive it i cant my oil level is fine i checked for leaks.nothing my buddy thinks the valve in the injector got stuck open like somebody says but idk the mechanics at my dealership r ******** n dnt ever want to do warranty work. and even if i have the trifecta that "is undetecable" would show up if they scan for it? i just dnt know what to do if it happens to be that injector is that and expensive fix? and my oil looks pretty light (color)

 

and this is a prime example of why you should pick up an extra E69 ecu for tuning. Sure trifecta may be "undetectable at a glance", but not a thorough investigation

 

there's a lot of things that could cause the same out come... cam position sensor? dirty maf sensor? just because ur smelling gas doesn't mean its fuel related...maybe it has no spark? and the fuel u are smelling is backed up from cranking the car to much? etc but all of those would throw a code.... you are positive there was no stored, or pending codes? it sounds like a dirty/bad MAF sensor to me just by the lil bit i gather on here but i could be wrong. i just know a lot of cars start and stumble when they have bad maf sensors. from my experience. but im not a internet tech man

 

so when you are cranking the car over is it rough or like it was before? this will let you know if it is the engine or just a bolt on.

idk if are DI's can stick like that

 

You don't have injectors....

 

ok that what I thought so now u know thats not it. oil looks good ok.

did it smoke? is it maybe a head gasket?
this guy needs to give us more info

 

your kidding right? How does the fuel get into the cylinders then? Through quasi magic of epic proportions it is willed into the cylinders?

The injectors on DISI engines are more like injectors you find on diesels, they are an elctrohydraulically actuated injector with a "poppet" style nozzle that has a preset relief pressure. This nozzle's design is meant to survive the combustion process for hundreds of thousands of miles and is exactly why tuning these engines shouldn't just include AFR and KR safety nets but EGT as well. The last piston ring land I saw on this forum was a classic example of EGTs too high.

To the OP, what did the oil SMELL like, was it watery? Have you checked your battery condition and connections yet. Also put hands on all your sensors and piping to make sure they are ok. VERY carefully take out your MAF sensor and inspect it for oil, dirt and other contaminants. Clean with electrical contact cleaner ONLY, be careful not to mess it up, reinstall, repeat test. I am having a hard time with understanding how it would not come up with a single code.

 

especially considering the new bulletin released last week