Check Engine Light after NLS
Yesterday i was heading home from work and pulled out of the parking lot and onto the highway and did a NLS from 2nd to 3rd.
It felt good and normal, but when i did it the engine kind of made a noise with some knocking and clacking. I let of the gas immediately and noticed it triggered a blinking "check engine" light. But i got back on the gas and the noise was gone and the check engine light stopped blinking after 10 sec or so and it was like nothing ever happened. I tried another NLS a while later and it worked normally. The noise sounded terrible, but it doesnt seem like anything is wrong or damaged. I have no idea what the hell happened? |
you just pulled out of a parking lot, i take it the car wasnt at operating temp. most likely missfire, but nothing uncommon
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random misfire?
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I guess i should have let it warm up a little longer. It was really hot out but it probably wasn't up to temp.
I usually just wait til its between 192 and 200, but i guess I got a little throttle happy too early. What is the optimal operating temp to open the throttle up? |
about that range but it still needs to warm up before you beat it
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the car needs to be operating temp before nls
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I think almost every ss owner has done this lol... but easy mistake to learn from lol
The engine is very senstive |
Originally Posted by moranjames89
(Post 4968944)
random misfire?
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Do like I do: dont NLS...............evar.
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This engine is VERY sensitive. I got a flashing CEL once when warmed up and NLS here and there which is a SEVERE misfire. Was extremely hot and humid though.
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I usually let the car warm up and idle down before driving, then when at full temp do a light pull or 2. It is very finicky for some reason!
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I'm amazed you didn't experience this sooner lol
My car does this everytime I drive hard, well mine doesn't make that horrible sound, but it does throw a CEL everytime I NLS through my gears. I checked it with a code reader last time and it simply says "Code Not Found" I took it to the dealer theirs said the same thing, they said that it was probably just that so much goes on in the car at one time when your NLSing and that the computer probably skipped a beat and thought something was wrong even though it wasn't. It normally goes away though after about 24 hours. |
Just because your coolant is at 180F or higher does not mean the car is actually at operating temp. Oil tempurature plays a big part in when a car is truly at operating tempurature. Idealy you want the oil to be at 180F - 200F to be at operating temp. Once the coolant gets up to 180F plus, it can still take a few minutes for the oil to actually warm up to operating temp.
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Originally Posted by rnjmur
(Post 4969248)
Just because your coolant is at 180F or higher does not mean the car is actually at operating temp. Oil tempurature plays a big part in when a car is truly at operating tempurature. Idealy you want the oil to be at 180F - 200F to be at operating temp. Once the coolant gets up to 180F plus, it can still take a few minutes for the oil to actually warm up to operating temp.
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Originally Posted by jbg333
(Post 4968959)
I guess i should have let it warm up a little longer. It was really hot out but it probably wasn't up to temp.
I usually just wait til its between 192 and 200, but i guess I got a little throttle happy too early. What is the optimal operating temp to open the throttle up? |
Good info guys...
Is there a way to see what your oil temp is at? I just assumed the coolant was the way to tell if your engine is warmed up. |
Originally Posted by jbg333
(Post 4969639)
Good info guys...
Is there a way to see what your oil temp is at? I just assumed the coolant was the way to tell if your engine is warmed up. |
I wait till its at 186 or 189 coolant temp.
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I recomend getting a code reader(OBD), even though the CEL flashed & went away it is still recorded event. I know this beacause it happened to me, since its tuned I didn't want dealership thinkin anything was up so I cleared the P0300, P0302, P0303 codes misfires a bitch learned to make sure she is always warmed up & is @ normal idle before moving.
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Isn't this problem also related to not being in comp mode when you nls? ... it happened to me 2-3 times and the engine was at the right temp..
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Originally Posted by jpower102
(Post 4971449)
Isn't this problem also related to not being in comp mode when you nls? ... it happened to me 2-3 times and the engine was at the right temp..
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Originally Posted by crypticscifer
(Post 4971559)
nls should engaged when ever...
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Originally Posted by rnjmur
(Post 4969736)
Not without a OBDII scanner or an actual oil temp gauge. I have never watched to see how long it takes for the oil to get to temp, but next time I scan the car I will watch it.
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Originally Posted by jpower102
(Post 4972164)
Ya I know that .. I'm just saying I got the flashing check engine when I NLS a few times when the engine was at the right temp...
It has absolutely nothing to do with what mode you are in.
Originally Posted by rnjmur
(Post 5009463)
So I scanned the car the other day to check my fuel trims and watched the oil temp. After the car reached operating temp, ~185F, it took the oil about 2 - 3 minutes to reach 180F.
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I've had the same thing happen. I used nls when the car was about 160 degrees and it did the same pop/crackle/misfire/blinking check engine light. With that being said...i've never had the car do the same once the coolant temp is 190+
I wouldn't worry about it. Next time let the car warm up for a bit and you won't have that issue again. |
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