Check Engine Light after NLS
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Check Engine Light after NLS
Yesterday i was heading home from work and pulled out of the parking lot and onto the highway and did a NLS from 2nd to 3rd.
It felt good and normal, but when i did it the engine kind of made a noise with some knocking and clacking. I let of the gas immediately and noticed it triggered a blinking "check engine" light.
But i got back on the gas and the noise was gone and the check engine light stopped blinking after 10 sec or so and it was like nothing ever happened.
I tried another NLS a while later and it worked normally.
The noise sounded terrible, but it doesnt seem like anything is wrong or damaged. I have no idea what the hell happened?
It felt good and normal, but when i did it the engine kind of made a noise with some knocking and clacking. I let of the gas immediately and noticed it triggered a blinking "check engine" light.
But i got back on the gas and the noise was gone and the check engine light stopped blinking after 10 sec or so and it was like nothing ever happened.
I tried another NLS a while later and it worked normally.
The noise sounded terrible, but it doesnt seem like anything is wrong or damaged. I have no idea what the hell happened?
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I guess i should have let it warm up a little longer. It was really hot out but it probably wasn't up to temp.
I usually just wait til its between 192 and 200, but i guess I got a little throttle happy too early.
What is the optimal operating temp to open the throttle up?
I usually just wait til its between 192 and 200, but i guess I got a little throttle happy too early.
What is the optimal operating temp to open the throttle up?
#12
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I'm amazed you didn't experience this sooner lol
My car does this everytime I drive hard, well mine doesn't make that horrible sound, but it does throw a CEL everytime I NLS through my gears.
I checked it with a code reader last time and it simply says "Code Not Found"
I took it to the dealer theirs said the same thing, they said that it was probably just that so much goes on in the car at one time when your NLSing and that the computer probably skipped a beat and thought something was wrong even though it wasn't.
It normally goes away though after about 24 hours.
My car does this everytime I drive hard, well mine doesn't make that horrible sound, but it does throw a CEL everytime I NLS through my gears.
I checked it with a code reader last time and it simply says "Code Not Found"
I took it to the dealer theirs said the same thing, they said that it was probably just that so much goes on in the car at one time when your NLSing and that the computer probably skipped a beat and thought something was wrong even though it wasn't.
It normally goes away though after about 24 hours.
#13
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Just because your coolant is at 180F or higher does not mean the car is actually at operating temp. Oil tempurature plays a big part in when a car is truly at operating tempurature. Idealy you want the oil to be at 180F - 200F to be at operating temp. Once the coolant gets up to 180F plus, it can still take a few minutes for the oil to actually warm up to operating temp.
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Just because your coolant is at 180F or higher does not mean the car is actually at operating temp. Oil tempurature plays a big part in when a car is truly at operating tempurature. Idealy you want the oil to be at 180F - 200F to be at operating temp. Once the coolant gets up to 180F plus, it can still take a few minutes for the oil to actually warm up to operating temp.
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I guess i should have let it warm up a little longer. It was really hot out but it probably wasn't up to temp.
I usually just wait til its between 192 and 200, but i guess I got a little throttle happy too early.
What is the optimal operating temp to open the throttle up?
I usually just wait til its between 192 and 200, but i guess I got a little throttle happy too early.
What is the optimal operating temp to open the throttle up?
#17
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Not without a OBDII scanner or an actual oil temp gauge. I have never watched to see how long it takes for the oil to get to temp, but next time I scan the car I will watch it.
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I recomend getting a code reader(OBD), even though the CEL flashed & went away it is still recorded event. I know this beacause it happened to me, since its tuned I didn't want dealership thinkin anything was up so I cleared the P0300, P0302, P0303 codes misfires a bitch learned to make sure she is always warmed up & is @ normal idle before moving.
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#23
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So I scanned the car the other day to check my fuel trims and watched the oil temp. After the car reached operating temp, ~185F, it took the oil about 2 - 3 minutes to reach 180F.
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It has absolutely nothing to do with what mode you are in.
That sounds about typical. I swear the manual recommends 10 minutes of driving for all components to come up to operating temperatures but I can't remember for certain if that's where it is documented.
Last edited by Permafried-; 06-10-2010 at 01:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#25
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I've had the same thing happen. I used nls when the car was about 160 degrees and it did the same pop/crackle/misfire/blinking check engine light. With that being said...i've never had the car do the same once the coolant temp is 190+
I wouldn't worry about it. Next time let the car warm up for a bit and you won't have that issue again.
I wouldn't worry about it. Next time let the car warm up for a bit and you won't have that issue again.
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