Hey guys, my car threw the CEL and i took it in to a nearby dealership. They are telling me its the fuel pressure solenoid and the fuel purge solenoid went bad. Heres my question, they are asking about 700 for the fix, so i went to autozone to see if i can get the parts cheaper and the guy said he doesnt show the car even has those... So is the dealership trying to screw me or is the autozone guy an idiot? and is 6-7 hundred a fair amount to get it them replaced?


Edit. Its an 09 cobalt ss

 

Have the code read for us and tell us what it is. That's your first step. We can help from there.

Sounds to me like Evap system code, if that's the case you can replace the whole system yourself for about $75

And if it's something to do with the High Pressure Fuel System I would bet it's covered under powertrain.

 

Dealership said p0451 and p0496

 

These are Evap codes like I said.

You need to start with replacing the evap purge selenoid on the manifold.

It's really freaking easy. Just go buy the part. You have to undo one connector and one bolt.

Not sure how good you are but it's as easy as a fix as it gets. If that doesn't work then it's the vent valve selenoid by the gas tank. I did a how to on replacing it. Very easy too and I'm a ******* when it comes to cars.

DDMWorks - EVAP Solenoid Testing and Replacement on Ecotec engines - YouTube

 

Oh and here is another guy with exact codes and his was the purge selenoid on the intake manifold.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-1...-p0496-255332/

 

Awesome thank you man, where would i go about buying the part and how much should i pay for it?

 

You can probably find it a little cheaper, but I always buy it from dealership parts departments.

GM part number 12608378 $30 at dealership


Here is ebay link

GM 12608378 Vapor Canister Purge Valve, New | eBay


You will be amazed how much better the car will run. Did you see any other symptoms like hard starts after filling with gas?

 

lol at $700 to fix it. They are ripping you off. Technically its considered a Emmissions part so it should be fixed for free under warranty. I think there is an 80k mile 4 year warranty for Emmissions related items, including the catalytic converter.


Edit* There are 3 different limited Emmissions Warrantys.

3 yr/ 50k miles limited emmision warranty
7 yr/ 70k limited emmisions warranty
8 yr/ 80k limited emmisions warranty

Emission Control Systems

Defects and performance for car and light-duty truck emission control systems are covered for the first 2 years or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first. From the first 2 years or 24,000 miles to 3 years or 36,000 miles defects in material or workmanship continue to be covered under the New Vehicle Limited Bumper-to-Bumper Warranty coverage. Specified major components are covered for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. Defects and performance for heavy duty truck emission control systems including those found in 6.6L DuramaxŽ Diesel Engines are covered for the first 5 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first.

- Refer to your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information booklet for California emission control system warranty details.

 

theres a reason its called the stealership

 

The worst part is that now that he got that quote, it's hard to ever trust them again. They could have charged him $50 and fixed it and both people would have been happy.

 

hey guys, i didnt want to make a new thread because its basically the same problem... or i thought. i replaced the evap solenoid. for the last two days its been cutting off when i first start it. itll run for a few seconds like its got a giant cam in it and then it just cuts off. as soon as i unplug the MAF it runs completely fine. ive replace the MAF twice today with two brand new MAFs and neither fixed the problem. it still cuts off after a few seconds and is actually even worse now, i cant move the car from my driveway. anybody have any ideas? threw codes p0496,p0451, and p0101

 

You have a huge vacuum/boost leak. Either it is a true leak from the intercooler/chargepiping, or your new EVAP solenoid is already stuck open. You can test the EVAP solenoid by removing it from the car and trying to blow through it where the tube connects. If you can blow through it, it's bad (stuck open.) Did you hook the tubing back up after you replaced the solenoid? Just asking.

 

^^ what he said. DOn't keep replacing your maf. Your maf isn't the problem. Make sure you didn't over tighten the solenoid and crack it. Make sure you didn't leave the vacuum line lose. Unplug it and see how the car runs.

 

Hey guys thanks for the help, it's now throwing 100 and 114 also. Purge solenoid and mad have been replaced and its still acting up. All lines hooked up correctly and not over tightened. Both mafs have been reman so I'm gonna go to Chevy and try and get a brand new one

 

You sure you don't have a boost leak?

Have any way to monitor your STFT or LTFT?

 

I dont know if i do, how would i check? and im sorry but i dont know what stft and ltft are

 

What happens if you unplug the wire on the solenoid. It'll throw a code, but if the car smooths out you know that's the culprit.

 

nothing happens if i unplug wire on solenoid, but if i do it on the maf the car runs completely fine. thats why i thought it was maf but ill now be on the 4th in two days...

 

update. I went to a chevy dealer and got a brand new MAF. car ran completely normal except it wouldnt build boost and still had the check engine on. so i figured the computer was just limiting the car... as soon as i cleared the codes, car ran like total **** again. it idles like a drag car. up to like 2k and then down to like 600... and then off.... anybody have any ideas? should i just take it in?

 

12608378 relaced by 12592015 always in stock.

Link

 

hey guys, i figured id take some pics and see what you guys thought. and yes i know im missing that protective plate from the bottom of the ic, one side is damaged and it was just hanging there so i took it off. ill post a video of how its acting tomorrow.

edit: i cant figure out how to upload pics so heres the link to my photobucket

http://s1279.beta.photobucket.com/us...t1089/library/

vid coming soon.

 

Betting on a cracked end tank. Those plastic buggers are prone to crack! I remember seeing a thread that sounded almost identical to this one. It was a cracked intercooler end tank. He cannot build any boost. Sounds like a good start to me. OP, jack up the car and take a look. You might end up taking off the front bumper. Check for hairline cracks as well.

 

hey you said you took off the condenser bar under the intercooler???? Did you fill the hole it left? Its a stupid question I know but I cant see your pics. They are all red x's.

Oh and did you try replacing the other EVAP solenoid located near the gas tank?

 

Im taking the front bumper off now and going over all pipes and intercooler.

 

Like Cuda said, it wouldn't hurt to see if the Vent valve is stuck open (near the gas tank).