Different dynos you CAN'T compare like that

 

i was thinking problems if they set his max airload values ALL to 100%. also if they put his
gear/rpm/torque values in first and second to ALL 100% that would be an issue too.
BTW nice hanger for the "pill". lol.

 

I hear ya...but HOW FAR OFF can my dyno be? Church Automotive days that his Dynapack can be about 7% higher than dynojet..but not always. My car does 60-100 in 6.3 sec. (verified) you do the math! Let's say 0-60 is 6 sec (conservative)..that's 12.3 sec to 100MPH. That *should* equate to a potential sub 13sec Qtr? No I don't have a time slip...just bench racing for now

 

depending on the dyno, especially one like a dynojet that takes a bunch of factors in such as; relative humidity, elevation, barametric pressure, and even the accuracy of the calibration can actually give you different numbers day to day.. and that's on THE SAME dyno. Now comparing a dynojet, mustang, dynopack, ect, ect even further complicates things due to different corrective factors, callibrations, and settings on each dyno. I've personally seen as much as a 15% difference going from a dynojet to a mustang dyno with the same mods I was running at the time (mustang read 15% less). A dyno is primarily used for 2 things: 1) a tuning tool to show actual wheel gains or losses... 2) a way for people to wave around thier dick to compare whos is bigger... usually the ladder seems to matter the most to alot of people

Sorry to be all long winded, but there really is a HUGE difference in how far off readings can be

 

How much it could be off I don't know.

My 1/4mi I got 13.7 @ 111

I dynoed my car at this place and they claimed that it read about 5% less. Clearly not

 

13.7 sounds about right for a stock (240WHP) car. 111MPH doesn't look right for that time though (I would expect 104ish?). Anyway, I think my car has a *potential* of a sub 13 sec like I said, (given 60-100@ 6.3 verified). So, lets say the car is *capable* of 12.7 then...which it surely should be with a capable driver. 1 sec over your car is worth at least
60HP +..that comes out to 303HP based on your dyno..close to what I got.
Please don't flame for *benching it* here...just a rational discussion that makes some sense...not trying to *prove* anything here

 

That dyno graph I was tuned

Which is why I said you can't really compare like that

 

Gotcha..

I guess that trap speed of 111MPH could be right on (slow reaction time?)..that would definitely indicate more HP is there than shown.

Check this ink out..it calculated HP from trap speed. I assumed the car and driver weighed 3200lbs. You get 341 HP (FLYWHEEL)
...or around 310WHP.
Link to calculator:

http://www.ajdesigner.com/phphorsepo...horsepower.php

 

Reaction time doesn't count I just can't launch the car

Ps DON'T cut the bumpstops

 

LOL..you saw that post..thanks! I'll leave em be.

 

You have room for much much more. 6.3 sec 60-100 is a mild tune.

Drive it to Indiana and I'll give you a good tune.

5.3-5.5 sec is about average for 80* temps. You need a high flow spun metal cat or catless DP (ZZP) if you can get away with it out there and the K&N intake to let that sucker breath. Stock intercooler is fine as long as it doesn't crack.

Then we can disable the Cat protection in the tune & romp!

 

so you are saying i need an intake?

 

My prior car was a 97 V6 Camry 5 speed which had a TRD SC and many mods..down pipe..intake cat back..upgraded pulley..etc. That car was nasty fast too. Here is that car on the SAME DYNO as by new 09 SS/TC. I'm putting the charts up to compare. BTW, the SS is HTP tuned, but BONE STOCK in every other respect. Enjoy.

Cobalt SS Bone Stock and tune:


Camry TRD SC 5.5lbs boost upgrade:



Camry Engine Bay:

 

The stock air box & accordion tube gets restrictive at higher flows once tuned.

ZZP airbox mod or an intake help that.

 

How much do you charge for a tune?

 

i hate when people compare numbers using different dyno's. What was your baseline numbers OP? my car dyno'd 240/240 b4 my tune

 

EXACTLY! True gains are the only thing that really matters and NOT a peak hp number.. Someone baselining at 220whp and after a tune and supporting mods makes 290whp, is actually making more power than someone who baselines at 255whp and makes 305whp. I mean 305 is a much nicer looking dyno number than 290 but the guy making "less" hp actually gained 20whp more. So in this case the 290whp is the better dyno number

 

I don't tune professionally, just as a hobby on LNF's.

 

what is your personal 60-100 time i am broke? my best time is 5.88. i just got the pill
tune from BYT and untweaked it was 6.12. i'm hoping some maf tweaking will get me
quicker. how do you guys (you, BYT, term. etc.) run these low 5 sec. and even 4 second
60-100's?? i want to do it!!!!!

 

The fastest I can run right now is 4.9 seconds in this 100* high humidity weather. Fastest time ever was 4.32 seconds with the pill (24 psi) and full boltons ~60* temps.

 

This morning was 5.3 slightly uphill on the interstate. I was logging the tune first time this week to check all was well. 71* ambient and 90% humidity when I left the house. I have logged a 5.02, my best when it was ~ 50* out and low humidity.

Never got into the 4's with my slowerbalt. Touched the 4's once 62-97. Lots of timing up top and very good MAF tuning, no KR is the key.

 

i hate all of you guys!.......j/k. damn it. i'm just jealous. ha-ha.

 

I first timed my car from 4000-6000RPM..that's 62-93. (Are you sure it was 97?). I got 5.2 sec there (and 6.3 to 100mph). Boy, your car is really quick! I would estimate that to be at least 50HP more than mine. Do you have 350WHP? (yeah, I know depends on dyno...just let me know anyway.

 

i'm with you ronn. these tuners got some fast ass cars!

 

Never been to a dyno, don't need to.

Prob around 260/260 though, that's what I tell people.


After all, it's just a Cobalt.

When my brother drove it, I told him he better steer with two hands.

Terminator2 worked with me a lot over the first 6 mos of tuning this thing. He's the best.