Exercise your Turbo?
#1
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Exercise your Turbo?
I usually go for Max boost 2-4 times daily. Just a quick spurt to see if *all is well*.
I was wondering...is it desirable to give 'er a GOOSE on a regular basis for *maintenance*? I know it's a weird question, but I'm sure others here have given this a thought.
I was wondering...is it desirable to give 'er a GOOSE on a regular basis for *maintenance*? I know it's a weird question, but I'm sure others here have given this a thought.
Last edited by ronn; 09-19-2010 at 07:02 PM.
#11
I used to. Now I go for gas mileage only because I drive a far distance for work and gas = money. Last tank was 30.5 avg.
I still will once in a while but even a quick 2nd gear rips the tires. Finish out third and that's going pretty fast so I don't do it often. Mostly to save money via saving gas and not getting tickets.
I don't think it's a bad idea to WOT sometimes but not daily. Maybe weekly or every couple days. I've known tons of people who babied their cars and had all kinds of problems while I go WOT sometimes and didn't have many issues. Not including this car though....
I still will once in a while but even a quick 2nd gear rips the tires. Finish out third and that's going pretty fast so I don't do it often. Mostly to save money via saving gas and not getting tickets.
I don't think it's a bad idea to WOT sometimes but not daily. Maybe weekly or every couple days. I've known tons of people who babied their cars and had all kinds of problems while I go WOT sometimes and didn't have many issues. Not including this car though....
#13
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#14
Problems arrise when inferior quality lubricant is use (cheap oil), oil pressure is low, or damaged is incurred from abuse. That means don't race the engine upon startup or spool the turbo when the engine is still cold. Also, never shut the engine off immediately after pushing it hard, you need to let it idle for a few minutes to cool the turbo down. This is less of an issue with newer synthetic oils, but its still good practice to give the engine a cool down period after its been run hard. Turbos can reach tempuratures at which they actually begin to glow red, and the last thing you want to do is stop circulating coolant and oil when they are hot.
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^ the water cooling takes some of the heat issues out of the turbos on these. On my diesel which is oil cooled only I go easy for a while before I stop and idle it down for a bit. The thing about start up is VERY important. The oil is still cold and can be to viscous to propely lubricate the turbo in colder climates as the guys up north may attest to. Boosting a turbo should NOT hurt anything, its what they were made to do. And the Kd04 does it really well for a stock unit. I have heard that idling won't really do much but as long as you don't boost it for a few miles as you reach your destination that will cool it alot.
Hell I boost mine every single day on the freeway. I love to watch the boost needle climb when I go by people. If you want gas economy, I hear Trek is having a blowout sale on old bicycles... oh and Honda is getting rid of past year SI civics... I would rather have a bicycle though.
Hell I boost mine every single day on the freeway. I love to watch the boost needle climb when I go by people. If you want gas economy, I hear Trek is having a blowout sale on old bicycles... oh and Honda is getting rid of past year SI civics... I would rather have a bicycle though.
#17
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I dunno how you do it !
No clue why - I thought the GMS1 was supposed to increase mileage slightly. Maybe it is because I have the tires aired down from what the factory suggests ?
To the OP's question - Hells, Yeah !
In the old days, the excuse was "gotta burn out the carbon " - I think I first heard that from my Dad when he would romp on a '73 Mercuray station wagon we had w/ a 429 4BBL.
I think a little thrash now & then keeps 'em happy , and lets the ECM know who's the boss.
My .02.
Britt
#20
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#21
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Who knows really...
Gotta get all the gunk out - red line it daily..
#24
A common issue with direct injected vehicles is CARBON BUILD up, more so than traditional EFI motors. Bringing the RPM's up close to redline is theoried to help "burn some off", but as for factual data, there is none. Currently the most common practice to remove significant degress of the carbon buildup is to use Seafoam. The risk of this procedure is that chunks of buildup can relocate to other parts of the motor and even block a valve from operating.
The other component mentioned in this thread is continuous RPM for long periods of time. This can create scarring of the piston walls and create uneven wear. Is this a large concern? no. Only if you drive at a particular rpm for hours a day would this be something to concider. Properlubrication prevents the majority of this, but over time, consistant wear patterns will develope.
The motor will reflect your driving habits, so keep that in mind.
The other component mentioned in this thread is continuous RPM for long periods of time. This can create scarring of the piston walls and create uneven wear. Is this a large concern? no. Only if you drive at a particular rpm for hours a day would this be something to concider. Properlubrication prevents the majority of this, but over time, consistant wear patterns will develope.
The motor will reflect your driving habits, so keep that in mind.
#25
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That's why I won't use it. I have heard that REDLINE S-I fuel system cleaner with with HIGH POA might help with intake deposits on DI motor. The facts sheet says it *survives* combustion to recirculate back into intake and clean PCV etc. I use it in every tank..couple oz. I also switched to Pennzoil Ultra.