Long story short I was trying my new aem intake and was not tuned for it but it was pulling great and was spiking up to 25 psi (however there was a bizarre flutter at 25 psi). I installed this yesterday morning, now this morning I was driving to the store and it was driving great then all of the sudden the car dropped to aprox 12 psi and would not boost higher. Once it hit 12 psi at wot it would hang for a bit and after driving at 10 psi for 2 gears it would make a loud clunk and drop to no boost. I removed the AEM intake and it still happens, I checked all boost piping for cracks, I swapped back my oem ecu. however the car still does this. Tomorrow I am gonna swap in the oem down pipe and charge pipe and then take it in unless anybody has ideas.

 

That would suck taking all the **** off just to bring it into the dealer, I'm sure if you leave the cp, and Intake it wont matter

If your going, I would take the dp off, it only takes 15 min anyways as you may know just to be safe

But I would check all vac lines closely and lose pipes and other stuff just to double check before going through all that

 

I think I will leave the charge pipe, The intake is already off cause I did that for troubleshooting. I will take the downpipe off though just cause dealerships don't like them.

 

Yeah I havent been to the dealership yet (Knock on glass) so I couldnt tell ya but ya the charge piping I dont think they would car about

I also agree the aftermarket dp probably isn't a thing that dealerships like to look at but it doesnt take long so you should be good

I would just keep your stock intake on untill you have the person that tuned you ready for your retune

So you dont take the chance of ******* something up, ya know but gl with it

 

I had the same problem with mine,

It turned out to be the throtle body c-clamp.

For some reason its not a t-clamp and the cold pipe came off on the throttle body side.

Its not easy to see, its underneath !

I ended up buying a new t-clamp and the sucker is on for good now !!

Frank

 

You need to do an actual boost leak test.

 

Check the end tanks on the intercooler.

They've been known to crack

 

How do I do a boost leak test? And is everybody pretty sure this is a boost leak?

Is there supposed to be water in my cold side charge pipe?...Humm what is wrong here guys come on!

Bump

 

Torn BPV?

 

Is there a way to check?

 

i havent looked yet but im assuming the stock turbo is watercooled as well... sounds like you might have popped your turbo kaboosta

 

Take the BPV cap off on the turbo and look at it

 

Just did that, it appears to be fine, When I took it off the bpv rubber thingy was fine it does not look distressed the spring is not broken and the edges of the rubber thingy are smoth and even.

Any thoughts on water in the cold charge pipe?

 

Condensation. Been humid there lately?

 

Yea today is the first in 3 days I has not rained all day

 

Most likely a boost leak.

 

Yeah dude it is a leak .. I don't see any other option


The stock IC is a big POS and with the new intake you are letting in more air obviously ... what caused the leak ...


Once this bitch is spiking past 24 you need to be sure everything is real tight ..


I will be in Denver on Friday if you want me to come take a look at it ?

 

Well, I took both sides of boost piping off, inspected and re installed, I checked all hoses that go from boost piping to solenoid or from bpv and waste gate to solenoid and no issues. I re-installed all of the above, I checked the BPV and no issues there. All that is left is to remove the bumper cover and check end tanks. I am not gonna do that, I am gonna go stock and drop it off at the dealer with the stock ecu and say "my car wont accelerate..."

 

I think you have a disconnected rubber boost/vacuum hose somewhere. Check those.

 

I checked each one even those behind the turbo.

 

What about reseting the battery after it only boosts to 12..

Isn't that the power reduced setting if it detects something catastrophic ..

Unplug battery for 2 minutes , the positive side , then reconnect go test ..


IS the MAF in backwards or can you not put it in backwards with AEM ???????????????

It could have went into over boost . Just a thought

 

I thoght it was over boost at first but I have re set multiple times and it still stays aprox 10-12 psi. Term seems to think boost leak. I agree at this point I am just not sure where It is. It's gotta be the ic

 

The MAF can't go in backwards then?

You have the intake clamps real tight and the filter on the end have it tight ...you shouldn't be able to twist the filter if it's tight enough.

 

its definately a boost leak. Best way to test is to do your own check. To do this, it requires a trip to the hardware store and an air compressor. You need a PVC pipe endcap in the size of your intake, a check valve with a pressure gauge on it and some basic skills to put it together and seal it. Then you attach it to your intake by removing the filter or anywhere you can attach it pre turbo. Clamp it down to ensure an airtight seal and then pressurize it with an air hose up to 25 ish psi. Then just listen for the leak.

 

Your the stock intake on and the issue persists so this is not the issue.

So, 100% stock, I can hear the boost leak now. At boost I can hear a shhhhhhhh sound. Must be the ic damnit!