How are the high mileage SS/TC's holding up
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How are the high mileage SS/TC's holding up
I keep reading about people ditching their cars around 30-40k miles, I wanna hear some cobalt owners keeping their car and having issues but not a lot. I understand the cobalt's build quality is questionable, but there has to be some happy people out there.
So I ask, are there any high mile cobalts ss/tc's out there? I know it came out what fall 2007 (or second quarter 2008), there's gotta be some people with above 40k miles. If I did my math correctly most 2008 cobalts should be around 40k miles so I'm sure it's rare, but if there is, I'll like to read your story.
So I ask, are there any high mile cobalts ss/tc's out there? I know it came out what fall 2007 (or second quarter 2008), there's gotta be some people with above 40k miles. If I did my math correctly most 2008 cobalts should be around 40k miles so I'm sure it's rare, but if there is, I'll like to read your story.
Last edited by vahdyx; 02-06-2011 at 10:26 AM.
#3
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i've got 24k on mine... so far... clock spring, tire pressure sensor, rear pads and rotors, motor, and small paint rubs from doors hitting roofline.... all under warranty... we'll see if things get worse... still love the car though.
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55k, Just did front & rear brakes & rotors. Fronts were warped but there was a svc bulletin I missed that ran out at 36k. Replaced the rears since I changed rotors, the pads were still fine. Front pads had 50% left also.
Injector seal let go or was never there on #3 around 50k. I don't think it was ever there, no place for it to go if it had cracked. Comp was always a bit lower on #3 from the first time I tested it.
Injector seal let go or was never there on #3 around 50k. I don't think it was ever there, no place for it to go if it had cracked. Comp was always a bit lower on #3 from the first time I tested it.
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My excuse is... it was late, dark, didnt proof read and my fiances laptop doesn't have a number pad fall 2008 but turns out I'm still incorrect. 2 quarter 2008...
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Just hit 75k on mine. Replaced sway bar end links, rotors and pads all the way around, sunroof motor, the evap purge valve i think its called and 1 TPMS sensor. thats about it, i need to replace the rear axel pivot bushings. Runs harder than ever and has the same rattles it had when I first installed the STOP mounts.
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Just hit 75k on mine. Replaced sway bar end links, rotors and pads all the way around, sunroof motor, the evap purge valve i think its called and 1 TPMS sensor. thats about it, i need to replace the rear axel pivot bushings. Runs harder than ever and has the same rattles it had when I first installed the STOP mounts.
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Not at all. for being driven on long island and in the city 90% of its life (very shitty roads), its held up great. Cheapest car I have ever owned. Its all about maintence, ill drive this till the wheels fall off.
#15
Mine has almost 46k miles now. I've got no interest in selling it as its almost paid for now and no payments are nice.
I've had only a few minor problems.
1. Sunroof whistled the 1st winter when it got cold. Dealer adjusted it for free.
2. Rear brakes grooved up pretty bad around 20k miles. Replaced under warranty with about 22k miles. LUBE THE SLIDE PINS. Current ones are just fine with no grooving.
3. Its got a minor sunroof rattle lately but its cold and I'll check that when it warms up. Something is loose because it stops if you push on it lightly. No leaks or anything.
The biggest reason for people selling it is that its generally a young person car. After a few years they probably have a better job and can afford something nicer or bigger if they have a new family.
I've had only a few minor problems.
1. Sunroof whistled the 1st winter when it got cold. Dealer adjusted it for free.
2. Rear brakes grooved up pretty bad around 20k miles. Replaced under warranty with about 22k miles. LUBE THE SLIDE PINS. Current ones are just fine with no grooving.
3. Its got a minor sunroof rattle lately but its cold and I'll check that when it warms up. Something is loose because it stops if you push on it lightly. No leaks or anything.
The biggest reason for people selling it is that its generally a young person car. After a few years they probably have a better job and can afford something nicer or bigger if they have a new family.
#16
had mine for a year now, with 15,xxx miles on it. Ive had an ebrake issue and rear brake issue...but it was fixed and replaced under warranty. not looking to sell it anytime soon tho...
#19
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Lets see, I have a new shifter, new 2-4-R shift linkage, a new dash, new steering wheel, new ESC sensor, new pads and rotors all around (because the rear brake issue I just did all 4), new coolant tank, and thats all I can think of at the moment. I have about 27k and I have had the car for almost 2 and a half years.
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Lets see, I have a new shifter, new 2-4-R shift linkage, a new dash, new steering wheel, new ESC sensor, new pads and rotors all around (because the rear brake issue I just did all 4), new coolant tank, and thats all I can think of at the moment. I have about 27k and I have had the car for almost 2 and a half years.
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Its honestly nice to hear from you guys that aren't having too many problems. I hope this doesn't happen to me.
I bought my car when it had 1000 miles, I currently have 8000 miles, even though it's still young, I haven't had to many problems.
Intermediate shaft rattle, leather steering wheel crack, esc going crazy, noises, rear brake scoring, but taking it in before I hit 20k miles.
I bought my car when it had 1000 miles, I currently have 8000 miles, even though it's still young, I haven't had to many problems.
Intermediate shaft rattle, leather steering wheel crack, esc going crazy, noises, rear brake scoring, but taking it in before I hit 20k miles.
#23
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Well the shifter and shift linkage is because I do drive the car hard at times... but 95% of the shifter is plastic witch is stupid to me. It's honestly not that bad because it is all under warranty but if I keep having problems with it afterwards I might consider it... What I would really like to do is turn in into an autocross car and just buy a DD truck. But who knows...
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i'm at 28k and had to replace the rear rotors/brakes because of the known caliper pin issue, it was NOT fully covered under warranty, they made me pay $108 out of the $324 total.... All 4 tpms sensors have needed to be replaced. PCV valve on the intake was broken off (caused significant boost loss that i didn't notice for awhile) and they ended up replacing the entire intake housing under warranty. The paint has small rust particles in it due to "rail dust" settling on the car when they were shipped from factory, the dealer won't do anything about it. And lastly i had to bring it in for the power steering recall.
All in all i do like the car, but so far it's had more issues than both my previous honda civics combined.
All in all i do like the car, but so far it's had more issues than both my previous honda civics combined.