gr3y_f0x_n1nja

So, a couple weeks ago I swapped out the **** rear pads that GM blessed us with on our Turbo 'Balts and also installed some new rotors since my pads destroyed my rotors too.

For my rotors, I went for the slotted ones found on genuinesaab.com. Excellent quality, fit and performance. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

For the pads, I went with the Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads (part# HB478Z.605). Also HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

Now, for the pictures...

Old Rear Rotors:





Both of these pads are my old right rear pads:



Both of these pads are my old left rear pads:



All old 4 pads side by side:


More pictures of the inner pads:





More pictures of the outer pads:



New Rotors installed:





Still think it's absolute BS that GM doesn't cover this under warranty. There's NO WAY that the inside pads should be that destroyed when the outer pads have that much pad life left. Clearly, something isn't right. But whatever I guess. Maybe I'm just still bitter that the local Chevy dealer didn't cover it.

For the record, I had 22,000 miles when my rear brakes started grinding and replaced them shortly after.

hunter19707

My dealer replaced my rear rotors under warranty at 19,000. They told me rotors are 3/36. I bought Hawk pads to put on them.

gr3y_f0x_n1nja

My local dealer didn't cover ****. lol Oh well. I just think it's crazy when you look at how much pad life are on the outer pads, but the inner pads are completely destroyed. There's no way any dealer can say that is normal wear and tear. Clearly, something is wrong and they are wearing unevenly. Trying to explain that to "certified GM mechanics" and service managers though and they talk down to you and act like you are dumb.

Infidel

When the pads are wearing that unevenly, that's a sure sign that the caliper is not "sliding" like it should. When the piston pushes on the inner pad, the caliper should slide and equalize the force between the inner and outer pads. The problem is the result the calipers not being lubed properly from the factory. Did you lube the caliper when you installed the new pads?

gr3y_f0x_n1nja

You must be talking about the caliper pins... and yes, I did.... BIG TIME.

09silverSSS

I hate to fight a little bit with my dealership for them to replace my rear rotors and pads at 15k miles.
I explained to them that my front pads and rotors still were fine and had plenty of wear left. They gave some BS excuse about rear pads grip tighter - blah, blah, blah.

They replaced them for free but said if they wear out again it is just because it is a high wear item.

ebristol

iTrader: (4)

It looks like your used those stock pads for 1,000 miles too long...

jarhead

I am in the same boat on my rear rotors and pads, Let us know if the new pads have less brake dust after a while also please?

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

Hawk pads make way less brake dust on our cars. I love them. They still stop will ease and they produce less mess. lol.

Billy Baldone

My dealer covered mine at 14k,My dad also bought his from the same dealer,he has 600 miles and the rotors are grooving already.He showed the service manager and owner of the dealer,they couldn't believe it at 600 miles,it gave me a whole lot of credibility in saying I wasn't beating the **** out of the car.

gr3y_f0x_n1nja

Yup, I did, but I couldn't help it. Work second shift and could never make it into the dealer unless it was in a small window on Saturday's so I didn't really have a choice.

They most definetly do. It's not even a comparison. Not only that (even though they are rear brakes), you can for sure tell that these pads are a lot smoother and have a lot better stopping power.

Overall, I couldn't be any happier. I'm glad I went with the rotors and pads I did. They both work great together.

Koz

Good to hear you're happy with the new rotors and pads. IMO your rotors didn't look too bad, but hey, if you're gonna do the pads you might as well do the rotors. I know I'm planning on doing my rotors when I do the pads.

I just took some pics of my rear brakes today, to hopefully show someone at Chevy customer service.

Outer Pad, plenty of life left:


Inner Pad, down to the backing plate. Negative life left


What you see up against the rotor is the backing plate of the brake pad, the friction material is gone.



The Rotor:

gr3y_f0x_n1nja

You sure about that?

09BlueBaltSS

How long have you been on the new pads/rotors?

HB_SS/TC

iTrader: (1)

Ive had aftermarket rotors and pads for the last 11k miles. No scoring at all

FRQ FLYR

iTrader: (1)

Getting rear rotors/pads replaced (warrantied) next week; I'm at about 16K.
I'll see how long they'll last if kept lubed but ?? Glad they're replacing them though-it's an upgrade I can hold off on. I have 0 complaints with my dealership but to those that do maybe try another and/or gather documentation that it's a VERY COMMON issue. Noise/rust/shorter life may be "expected"; uneven wear/rotor destruction not so much.
Interestingly enough as I was leaving the dealer I spotted another Black TC near the service area Don't know who's or why it was there but it's rear's were self-destructing as well,lol.

this-is-it-ss-05

wow those are CHEAP PADS your car came with.
and where are the new part pics out of the box????
they look tasty on the car...

tasty hhhhhmmmmmmmmmm

Infidel

Yes. You should be good then.

I'm having trouble finding any aftermarket rotor options. Where did you find rotors?

metroplex

Worn inboard pads suggests something is binding. The OEM pads will groove the rotors, but you need to check your e-brake adjustment AND lubricate the snot out of the caliper slide pins.

09BlueBaltSS

Reread first post

Permafried-

My R1s cleared customs on Friday so should be here early next week. My dealer argued with me that pad wear was "fine" and everything was working "correctly" until I basically forced them to grease my sliders because I had kept an eye on them from day one.

Once my rotors and pads are on I will be walking in with the 2 rear rotors and my rear pads and dropping them on the table saying "now tell me at 19,000km this is ******* normal". Why? It's a long story but overall I've had enough of their so-called "service" (damaging my car every ******* time it's in, not looking into things I ask them to when I point out the problem, overfilling my oil pan to the extreme, saying they've done work they haven't, etc) and I hope to god they bring out half the management team so I can have a nice discussion with them.

Anyways, hope your new parts hold up better than the stockers did; as long as you greased the hell out of the sliders when you installed the new pads you should be good for a while .

metroplex

That has been the SOP for car dealerships for over 30 years.

Permafried-

Not entirely true but for the most part I agree. Thing is this dealership was excellent up until the Pontiac closures (and other GM dealer closures) in our area. Now they're taking on way too much "work" (which in some cases means fill out a work order and do nothing, no joke, nothing at all), and all they see is dollar signs. Customer service is no longer a priority and they're neglecting their original customers and I've spoken to numerous other people who feel the same. Unfortunately because I know what I'm talking about I'm seen as a nuisance because they can't simply take the car in, say "yep we fixed something" and have me leave with my head up my ass assuming they did without verifying the work.

The brakes are just one example, but at least these I can do something about myself with an aftermarkert vendor that friends have highly recommended having run their rotors on their SS/SCs for years .

mkulrey13

iTrader: (39)

I plan on doing my brakes very soon. Could someone post a pic of what/where the slider pins are to lub and what type of lub should i be getting? God that sounds dirty

WV-CobaltSS/SC

my car has lil over 13k and mine are shot as well.. they wouldnt cover it so guess im jus gonna buy some rotors and pads and throw on it. they are absolute idiots...