ok so my car is down and its going to be down for a while until my motor gets back... but just wondering what would my 1/4 mile runs would be like? just a guess... here are my mods:


Like i will be as soon as i get my car back:

Darton Sleeves
Wisco Pistons
TTR Trany mount
Cryo Tread Rods
SPEC stage 3 Clutch
Infiniboost Tune (30psi)
CIA Catless Downpipe
CIA Performance Charge Pipping
Dejon SRI
Custom 3' Turbo back exhaust (no cats no nothing)
Crazy Steve Intercooler
Maxxiz Victra Z1 235/45/40 Tires
Max WHP: 323
Max WTQ: 404

What could be my times with that setup?

now with the set up that i would be having in about a month or so...(prototyping it right now)

Darton Sleeves
Wisco Pistons
TTR tranny mount
SPEC Stage 3 Clutch
Cryo Tread Rods
Treadstone Turbo kit that includes:
Pressision 5557 turbo
Tial Wastegate
Treadstone Charge Pipes
Treadstone Downpipe
Treadstone Cold Air Intake
Treadstone Intercooler
HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve
2-step WOT box
Maxxiz Victra Z1 235/45/40 Tires
and a tune (Trifecta tune)
Max WHP: ---
Max WTQ: ---
Expected WHP: 450-475
Expected WTQ: 435-485

what do you guys think with this set up?

Thanks!

 

I would say depending on your power, your driving ability, low 12's or high 11's maybe? I'm not huge into 1/4 so I'm just guessing from what I've seen some people put down, but theres no really built lnf yet that I've seen.

 

If you do it, good job, hope you the best.

But with all that power don't forget a clutch.

 

if i do what?

 

make the build i think he means.

 

oo the build is in process... treadstone has basically everything done, i just need my block to get back from darton cuz they are putting the sleeves... as soon as i get my block back ill have to break it in and then put the turbo kit in...

 

Fabian, I'm glad I saw this. Reminds me to go get pricing on the rods. I also got some info on the oil filter stuff. It will be about $100 cheaper than the insurance, so that works out good. Let me know when you have the insurance stuff straightend out and I'll have to get the money from you to buy the parts.

 

ok...darton said they were going to call me as soon as they get everything fixed... they are taking care of it.. let me know on the rods..

 

I'm pretty excited to see the results of a fully built lnf. I was pondering buying that long block lnf off the forum to play with....

 

Yes I mean the build, but do it right. Get a clutch, make sure your not pushing things beyond threshold, and do your research (not saying you haven't).

 

ooo **** lmao i have a SPEC stage 3 on the car that i completely forgot about! lol ill fix it...

there ya go... fixed

 

I think the question you meant to ask was: given ideal conditions, what should my car be capable of?

You could have a 600hp vette and run 12's if you can't drive it.

Given the HP and TQ when you get the car back, you should be in the upper 12's.
Given the HP and TQ after the latter mods, you should be able to pull that into the low 12's, maybe even a high 11.


But there are a myriad of factors that will determine your ET, to include:

1>Traction -- use of slicks or not.
2>Driver error -- HUGE factor, traction will be determined by this, along with how quickly you shift.
3>Atmospheric conditions -- Altitude, temperature on the day you run, humidity
4>Track prep -- SEE FIRST POINT

Those are the main factors. But, it's hit or miss on track day. A lot can happen over the course of a quarter mile that won't show on a dyno graph. For all you know, your car could be cutting fuel at the top of 3rd. Or maybe you won't be making optimal boost out of the hole for whatever reason.

Run your car, let us know how you do. But be realistic, don't paper race, you'll just be disappointed.

 

Thanks!

 

:'( lower the boost man.. you're going to crack a piston.. 24 is the limit of the stock turbo.. and you should get the same whp with it .. maybe less trq but still and it would be a shame to crack those new purdy pistons

but with f00t ballz and slicks/ DR's you could be into the 11's now just tapping them but you could get it barely you should get low 12s with your current setup..

 

just to be different 10.xx

 

Yea i know.. ill be runing the stock (17psi) tune until i break the motor in and then ill re-tune it once i get my kit in... but i wont be pushing 30psi again... i learn my lesson lol

 

Do valves and valve springs while your at it.

 

would you guys like to donate the parts?lol i have no more money!

 

zzp valve springs at least man 201 shipped lol

 

i am broooke right now!!! i dont have $$$$$$$

 

do it right or dont do it at all man.. id hate to have issues

 

i knoooowwww but i dont got $$$$$$$$$

believe me if i could i would... i would love to do springs and valves but i just cant right now... i had to pass the offer of a set of new rods for like 500... i just dont got the funds right now..

 

I think you might need more than a spec stg 3, it may work but you may be at it's threshold, and it is better to have more than just enough.

Go for the Stg 3+ or Stg 5.

Also get a set of Pedder's to put force down on the front of the car. More resistance will help you keep traction, I would go with low boost on your new tune first gear.

You don't want to be kicking yourself in the ass later.

 

exactly.. wait a bit man .. if you dont have money .. dont do it yet

 

I say low 12's with the set up in the first post. A 17" rim and a wider stickier drag radial and maybe high 11's.