blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

IDK yet. It idles normal now. I am going to clear the codes for "too lean at idle", reset fuel trims, and take the scenic route to the gym. I assume everything should be better, but we will see.


At least the car is getting lots of love from me haha.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

A little shout out to the previous owner Mr Tim Wilder!

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Maybe he's actually a really good mechanic and he's done this on purpose cuz you called him a douchenozzle on here or something. He could be an evil genius. You never know.

Terminator2

The lean idle could still be the maf not seeing airflow at idle. I have around 30% added at idle but it may not be enough yet. Send another log over.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Sending now.

With properly installed spark plugs the trims are better.

The knock went way down, but I'm still getting some. Going over the motor I see the Hahn intake is resting against the frame of the car. Could be making some metal on metal noise the sensor is hearing. I'm going to line the hole it goes through with silicone tuning and see if that was the problem. I also need to address the heat shield which could be another cause.

Terminator2

Watch your AC line as well it tends to get rubbed through by the Hahn intakes.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

It is hitting there as well. I really don't like the way this thing fits at all.
I think I'm getting a Dejon from eCaulk instead. Does the LNF even benefit that much having a cold air intake over a stock location Iintake?

Terminator2

Not really the IC cools the air down just as well when moving.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Could a dent in the lower charge pipe cause a high MAF reading?

My thought is that when pressurized air is passing over the bump from the dent it creates a turbulence that hits the MAF....

Terminator2

Possibly if it is big enough and near the MAF.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

It is near it. It is in that last bend on the outside of the curve. Immediately after the two dents (quarter sized and about 1/4" deep) is the straight portion to the MAF. So what, maybe 8" away?
No idea how they got there.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

So the common thought is that the random MAF fail is being cause by turbulence. Would inserting something like this in front of the MAF be a good idea?
Would it cause any issues under boost?

==========
HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener. These small additions to any cold air intake, turbo inlet pipe or anywhere a MAF sensor is located, will greatly improve the MAF readings “fuel trims” that the ECU sees. No more erratic MAF readings, fix lean or rich spikes, increase throttle response, fix idle, all of these can be improved with this small upgrade!

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

It wouldn't cause any issue, just the trouble with getting it to stay pre maf. I forget if there is enough space for one of those to fit and leave some space in front of the maf on the cold side. You could always just go speed density and say to hell with the maf

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

There is some room, I would only get one shot on getting it in tho. I would just put it in the 2.5" portion before the 3" MAF housing.


Go on, I am intrigued...

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Just use some slower setting epoxy. But if you're maf is just randomly jumping a lot of hz in a short frame then the air straightener will do little to nothing to fix your issue. It almost seems like there is a short or a ground issue with the sensor.

The quick and dirty LNF speed density just goes off the MAF base tables (basically a VE table on the LNF someone correct me if I understand this incorrectly) which says for a given load and rpm the air is X.X% different then the hidden table we can't change (i would assume an actual VE table) and adds fuel correctly for that amount of air. I'm not sure if Term does those, I'm kind of cautious about them since its difficult to do a real speed density and also VE tables start to fail at higher air flows when MAF's generally work great.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

That is what it does. No idea why either. It is on the stock connector and I opened up the loom and traced the wires; they are fine.
Hmmmmm. I wonder is it is a voltage issue on the car now that you mentioned that. I am going to have the battery and alternator tested.
My next thought is that maybe I should pigtail a frame ground from the ground wire on the MAF connector.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Have you checked all the grounding points? After the missing bolts I'd be going over damn near every bolt and nut.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Happen to know where all of them are?
I only know of the one from the starter to the crash beam bracket.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Used to recall, but can't anymore. I'm sure someone will chime in or there is a thread around here that lists them out

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

We have the one I was talking about, one from the head to the block, and that seems to be it.

I have a bunch of 4 gauge KnuKonceptz gold wire and terminals. I am going to have the battery and alt tested after work and then add some ground points this evening.

Grave

iTrader: (7)

There is a ground under the drivers side headlight and another under the alternator.

Grave

iTrader: (7)

There is also one under the oil cooler. It will be a stud instead of a bolt like the others. That is G105 in the picture below.



I had an intermittent erratic MAF signal a few years ago. It ended up being a break in the signal wire (yellow). The insulation wasn't damaged at all, so it took a bit to find where it was. As the problem got worse, the MAF frequency would sometimes go up to ~63,000Hz (or whatever the maximum is). Watch the frequency on HPT and unplug the MAF and you will see what I'm talking about. Key on engine off. This could potentially help you locate a harness issue. If you see the frequency jump around while you're moving the wiring then you know something is wrong.

If not, I would suspect an issue with the tune. I haven't read this entire thread, but is there something preventing you from putting the MAF back in the intake?

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I plan on switching to a BNR2871 or s256 so I am going to run a BOV. I am just trying to get a base tune to go off of now.

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

Its your floormats causing the issues

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I will try that. That is what the car does, kind of. The (hz) stay fine, but the air flow will randomly spike.