I have rubber accordian boots on all my slide pins. Have been like that from factory. I have had a problem with one slide pin on each caliper though. There is a rubber piece at the end of one slide pin that always distorts. I have replaced them all and have had no issues since finding a brake combo that works for me.

 

Yup, thats what the problem was 08SSTCRD, wrong part number for the brake pads when I bought them.

 

Hmmmmmmm all the rear disc setups I've seen
ALL HAVE SLIDE PIN BOOTS ON THEM.

What happened to your missing ones ?

 

same my pads have been completely replaced once, and have had them lubed one time before.
also had my rotors turned twice. cause of the inner grooving like you.

 

huh?

Oh, I read it again. You're just an idiot.

 

haha.
i lol'd.

 

Why thank you !

but it seems more idiotic to me that you're driving a car
WITHOUT caliper slide pin boots.

 

I used to use my ebrake all the time when parked. Ive stopped doing this, and now just leave the car in gear. My brakes are already damaged in the rear, but not using the ebrake constantly seriously seems to help a LOT! The reason I figured it would work is, it always seemed the rear brakes would drag more just after starting to drive the car after it had been parked....when you release the ebrake. The fact that the slide pins are sticking could be worsened when they are engaged for a prolonged period of time... Just my thought....

I also think its an issue that we dont have backing plates...Ive taken the rear brakes apart recently, and the surface of the pad material had streaks of rust....water and other environmental contaminants are clearly working their way in between the pad surface and rotor surface.

 

^^x2

EXACTLY WHAT I WAS GOING TO SAY...IT WILL HAPPEN ON ALL CARS AFTER WASHING IF THE E-BRAKE IS ENGAGED LIKE U DESCRIBED....no problems!

 

 

Since the general consensus on this forum is that the brakes on our cars wear out too quickly, here is a newsflash for all those people who are living in a cave:

I had 3 cars come in today needing brake replacement. The first was a 2009 Acura TSX. Front pads were worn down, front rotors were out of spec, and all needed to be replaced. Second car was a 2009 Nissan Altima Coupe with 19,000 miles. Front pads were worn down to the backing plates, and front rotors were trashed. Third car was a 2009 Mazda 6i sedan, which also needed front pads and rotors due to considerable wear. Also have had tons of '09 Accords needing all new rear brakes with only 15,000 miles on them, they are known for wearing out extremely quickly.

Some people on here act like brake pads should last forever. They are a wear and tear item. If you use quality pads and have them properly installed by a professional, you should experience little trouble with your cars brake system. My car has 47K miles, front and rear pads have plenty of life left and rotors are damn near perfect. I make sure to properly lubricate the rear slide pins with Permatex Ceramic brake parts lube at regular intervals and to NOT drive with the parking brake on.

 

Yeah my inner pads were my problem at 13k miles. Dealership tried to not fix it under warranty because they said it was caused by me ripping my ebrake in curves. Which pissed me off, because i'm not an idiot and would never do that, so when I got the car back after a week of it being at they're shop. I made them clean every spec of dirt they put in it, made them explain why they put 10 miles on my car, why I was only getting 21.3 MPG when I was getting 25.2 when I left it there, basically bitched at them for anything and everything I could haha and the result was me getting a free interior detailing and a complete new RBS :P

 

"by a professional." AHAHAHAHAAAAA!!! I AM a professional mechanic. Just not for cars. Did any of those cars you mentioned have just the inner pad wear down to the backing plate? No?

 

my rear pads were a problem at 4k miles and 10k miles.
i bought the car brand new.

they should, but again mine was new....no miles on it when i got it.
4k later and 10k later my rears were fucked.
not the front, front was perfect.
so theres no way it wasn't some kind of gm issue.

mine did at 10k, started at 4k and was squealing and squeaking bad.
but they didn't just "lubed them" and 6k later issue everyone else has had was really there.

they come stock that way.

 

Rear brakes typically do aprox. 20% of the actually stopping of the vehicle....there is absolutely no way they should wear this quickly.

I think you need the "NEWSFLASH". People with SS/TC's have been experiencing worn rear pads at 5k, 4k, and even 3k miles. Thats "normal wear and tear" in your opinion? If so, I hope your not really a mechanic. Ive been a mechanic for 6years and Ive never seen a car go through rear pads in 3k....especially considering the wear ISNT NORMAL....they are wearing unevenly, only the inner pads are wearing. I took my rear brakes apart and measured the pads.....my outter pads were 8mm and my inner pads were 2mm and 3mm....yah, thats normal

 

THEY SHOULD DEFINITELY LAST LONGER THAN 15-20,000 MILES!!! my wife has an '05 corolla XRS and has braked hard since new (she's the original owner)...it pisses me off, b/c i always figured i'd be doing a brake job early, BUT NOW SHE HAS NEARLY 90K MILES AND WILL PROLLY MAKE IT TO 100K...just a difference in OE parts i guess and quality to an extent...same thing with my s2000...52k mi and still A LOT of life on the original pads, front AND rear!!

WHATEVER...20k mi IS NOT NORMAL...manufacturers just use softer compounds for a smoother, better feel that is more quiet, drawbacks = reduced life and A LOT of dust!!!!

 

I had a Mazda and the front brakes lasted 80k miles and it still had the original rears at 115k miles when I sold the car. That didn't make them good brakes.

 

^^^ i never said anything about "good" just talking about durability, BUT there are way too many factors to take into consideration when considering brake wear issues and what makes them good or bad...just sayin'...

 

You aren't an automotive technician, so your opinion does not matter in the least. The inner pad will only ever wear down before the outer if the slide pins are not properly lubricated. I've been maintaining my rear brakes since I got the car and I have no problems with inner pad wear. Interesting.

 

I got mine fixed under warranty.... Haven't had any issues since..

you can still see the factory scoring on the rotors themselves after 3k miles.

 

Its not a GM designed caliper and therefore its not a GM only issue. Its an ATE caliper, and any car that uses the same caliper design will have the same issues. That includes the Mazda 3, as well as certain Saab and Volvo models. The only GM issue is that the caliper pins were not sufficiently lubricated from the factory.

You obviously don't have a clue. The rear brakes on newer vehicles are proportioned to do more stopping power, in order to bring the wear levels closer to 50/50. Some times the rears wear out first, some times the fronts wear out first. All depends on the design of the brake system. 20%?? You're just pulling numbers out of your ass.

No you haven't. Otherwise you'd realize its only a matter of caliper pin lubrication, and not some kind of "defect".

You are clueless. Once again, that can ONLY happen when the caliper doesn't slide properly on its pins. You are not a "mechanic", you are a nobody who is trying to pretend you have some sort of clue by posting on the internet.

 

From Wikepedia:

Rears are Floating design:
The brake caliper is the assembly which houses the brake pads and pistons. The pistons are usually made of aluminum or chrome-plated steel. There are two types of calipers: floating or fixed. A fixed caliper does not move relative to the disc and is, thus, less tolerant of rotor imperfections. It uses one or more pairs of opposing pistons to clamp from each side of the disc, and is more complex and expensive than a floating caliper. A floating caliper (also called a "sliding caliper") moves with respect to the disc, along a line parallel to the axis of rotation of the disc; a piston on one side of the disc pushes the inner brake pad until it makes contact with the braking surface, then pulls the caliper body with the outer brake pad so pressure is applied to both sides of the disc.

Floating caliper (single piston) designs are subject to sticking failure, which can occur due to dirt or corrosion entering at least one mounting mechanism and stopping its normal movement. This can cause the pad attached to the caliper to rub on the disc when the brake is not engaged, or cause it to engage at an angle. Sticking can occur due to infrequent vehicle use, failure of a seal or rubber protection boot allowing debris entry, dry-out of the grease in the mounting mechanism and subsequent moisture incursion leading to corrosion, or some combination of these factors. Consequences may include reduced fuel efficiency, excessive wear on the affected pad, and friction-induced heat warping of the disc

 

Shut the **** up already. The pins have to be lubricated time and time again. There's no boot to protect them from the environment. We know this. Go make your own thread.

 

Im not a mechanic? Im glad you are here to tell me about life, thanks! Im now a firefighter/paramedic, but I was a mechanic full time for 6years and I still do part time work. Boy people are ignorant. You clearly dont have any sort of idea what you are talking about, and you are trying to hide that fact with name calling......real mature.

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=131910 Not a mechanic....?

Rear brakes do not do 50% of the braking....period, unless its a specific application with adjusted braking bias which our Cobalts certainly are not. Its funny because when my car was at the dealer for warranty work I spoke with the service manager about this entire issue. And we actually talked about how much braking the rears do, and how they shouldnt be wearing this quick. I said they only do around 30% depending on vehicle application, and he said they actual do LESS. So you better call him up and tell him to stop working because he's not a mechanic either.

I never said it wasnt a caliper slide pin issue, it probaly is. However, Ive done countless brake jobs and Ive never heard of an occasion where you have to continuously grease the slide pins like youre saying. The issue is the slide pins are exposed, plus we have no backing plates, so environmental contaminants and water are free to get right in. I was arguing the fact that you said it was "normal wear and tear".... a caliper slide pin sticking @ 3000 miles is not normal wear and tear, so now youre contradicting yourself. You said it was normal....IT IS NOT NORMAL FOR REAR (OR FRONT BRAKES) TO LAST 3-4k MILES end of story

It shouldnt be necessary to lube your caliper pins at regular intervals. It should be a one time thing when the brake are assembled, and thats the problem with our cars, it needs it more. How do you expect the average person to do this on their own. Plus, they shouldnt have to, it should be the manufacturer's responsibility to rectify of the lubrication drying up due to exposure.

See how I responded to you without childish name calling? Try it sometime, itll make you feel like a grown up

 

Same here. I've got almost 12k miles on mine since they were fixed.