P.S.A *Calling All GMPP/LUK LFW285 Flywheel Users!*
08-08-2020, 10:42 AM
#27
I'm not sure what to measure and I'm sure im doing it wrong but here is what i have.
290mm tall
25.5mm outter thickness
19.1mm inner thickness
290mm tall
25.5mm outter thickness
19.1mm inner thickness
Last edited by b9k; 08-08-2020 at 10:48 AM.
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KobarutoSS (08-10-2020)
08-10-2020, 02:35 PM
#28
How and where you measured what you measured are important for consistency's sake.
On my ZZP replacement flywheel, I measured a 7.75 mm difference from the pressure plate mounting surface to the clutch disc engagement surface. Anything else can't really properly be done with a pair of calipers.
I have a magnetic base and dial gauge; I'll try to take some accurate measurements tonight.
What is needed is a reference point to measure from and to base all measurements off of. The best reference plane would be the flywheel-to-crank mounting surface, as that'll set all your distances in reference to the TOB, as well.
On my ZZP replacement flywheel, I measured a 7.75 mm difference from the pressure plate mounting surface to the clutch disc engagement surface. Anything else can't really properly be done with a pair of calipers.
I have a magnetic base and dial gauge; I'll try to take some accurate measurements tonight.
What is needed is a reference point to measure from and to base all measurements off of. The best reference plane would be the flywheel-to-crank mounting surface, as that'll set all your distances in reference to the TOB, as well.
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KobarutoSS (08-10-2020)
08-10-2020, 04:41 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
How and where you measured what you measured are important for consistency's sake.
On my ZZP replacement flywheel, I measured a 7.75 mm difference from the pressure plate mounting surface to the clutch disc engagement surface. Anything else can't really properly be done with a pair of calipers.
I have a magnetic base and dial gauge; I'll try to take some accurate measurements tonight.
What is needed is a reference point to measure from and to base all measurements off of. The best reference plane would be the flywheel-to-crank mounting surface, as that'll set all your distances in reference to the TOB, as well.
On my ZZP replacement flywheel, I measured a 7.75 mm difference from the pressure plate mounting surface to the clutch disc engagement surface. Anything else can't really properly be done with a pair of calipers.
I have a magnetic base and dial gauge; I'll try to take some accurate measurements tonight.
What is needed is a reference point to measure from and to base all measurements off of. The best reference plane would be the flywheel-to-crank mounting surface, as that'll set all your distances in reference to the TOB, as well.
08-10-2020, 04:48 PM
#30
Here's the thing though, using a pair of calipers, I couldn't measure the clutch mating surface in any meaningful way other than the one that I listed... so I'm curious as to how he measured it.
Accurate and consistent measurements are needed for the sake of comparison - no room for assumptions. Bad measuring and assumptions are how bad parts are made (I design parts for a living).
- - -
Edit: in a direct measurement manner, I should clarify. I just went out and did some reference measurements.
Using a micrometer, I measured crank-mount plane to flywheel-bolt plane to be 0.354 in.
Then I set a straight edge across the flywheel on the pressure plate mating surface.
Straight edge to pressure plate face: 0.0805 in.
Straight edge to clutch engagement face: 0.394 in.
Straight edge to flywheel bolt face: 0.7895 in.
There's going to be some associated error as I used poor technique, but the clutch face to pressure plate face measurements are damn close to what I had using the caliper and direct measuring, so it should be close enough.
That means that using the crank face as a reference point (since that's what it attaches):
I'll double check these numbers later. Either way, if the problem with the LUK ends up being that the pressure plate mount is too low, I'd think that a spacer should be able to be used.
Accurate and consistent measurements are needed for the sake of comparison - no room for assumptions. Bad measuring and assumptions are how bad parts are made (I design parts for a living).
- - -
Edit: in a direct measurement manner, I should clarify. I just went out and did some reference measurements.
Using a micrometer, I measured crank-mount plane to flywheel-bolt plane to be 0.354 in.
Then I set a straight edge across the flywheel on the pressure plate mating surface.
Straight edge to pressure plate face: 0.0805 in.
Straight edge to clutch engagement face: 0.394 in.
Straight edge to flywheel bolt face: 0.7895 in.
There's going to be some associated error as I used poor technique, but the clutch face to pressure plate face measurements are damn close to what I had using the caliper and direct measuring, so it should be close enough.
That means that using the crank face as a reference point (since that's what it attaches):
- Crank face to Flywheel Bolt face: 0.354 in (8.99 mm)
- Crank face to Clutch face: 0.7495 in (19.04 mm)
- Crank face to Pressure Plate face: 1.063 in (27 mm)
I'll double check these numbers later. Either way, if the problem with the LUK ends up being that the pressure plate mount is too low, I'd think that a spacer should be able to be used.
Last edited by USMCFieldMP; 08-10-2020 at 05:38 PM.
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KobarutoSS (08-10-2020)
08-10-2020, 08:37 PM
#31
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Thread Starter
Here's the thing though, using a pair of calipers, I couldn't measure the clutch mating surface in any meaningful way other than the one that I listed... so I'm curious as to how he measured it.
Accurate and consistent measurements are needed for the sake of comparison - no room for assumptions. Bad measuring and assumptions are how bad parts are made (I design parts for a living).
- - -
Edit: in a direct measurement manner, I should clarify. I just went out and did some reference measurements.
Using a micrometer, I measured crank-mount plane to flywheel-bolt plane to be 0.354 in.
Then I set a straight edge across the flywheel on the pressure plate mating surface.
Straight edge to pressure plate face: 0.0805 in.
Straight edge to clutch engagement face: 0.394 in.
Straight edge to flywheel bolt face: 0.7895 in.
There's going to be some associated error as I used poor technique, but the clutch face to pressure plate face measurements are damn close to what I had using the caliper and direct measuring, so it should be close enough.
That means that using the crank face as a reference point (since that's what it attaches):
I'll double check these numbers later. Either way, if the problem with the LUK ends up being that the pressure plate mount is too low, I'd think that a spacer should be able to be used.
Accurate and consistent measurements are needed for the sake of comparison - no room for assumptions. Bad measuring and assumptions are how bad parts are made (I design parts for a living).
- - -
Edit: in a direct measurement manner, I should clarify. I just went out and did some reference measurements.
Using a micrometer, I measured crank-mount plane to flywheel-bolt plane to be 0.354 in.
Then I set a straight edge across the flywheel on the pressure plate mating surface.
Straight edge to pressure plate face: 0.0805 in.
Straight edge to clutch engagement face: 0.394 in.
Straight edge to flywheel bolt face: 0.7895 in.
There's going to be some associated error as I used poor technique, but the clutch face to pressure plate face measurements are damn close to what I had using the caliper and direct measuring, so it should be close enough.
That means that using the crank face as a reference point (since that's what it attaches):
- Crank face to Flywheel Bolt face: 0.354 in (8.99 mm)
- Crank face to Clutch face: 0.7495 in (19.04 mm)
- Crank face to Pressure Plate face: 1.063 in (27 mm)
I'll double check these numbers later. Either way, if the problem with the LUK ends up being that the pressure plate mount is too low, I'd think that a spacer should be able to be used.
08-14-2020, 12:53 PM
#32
I used long reach digital calipers to measure the inner and outer thickness width. I measured in several spots to verify i got the same measurement each time.
I didn't measure the face as I wasn't sure how to measure the face correctly.
Last edited by b9k; 08-14-2020 at 01:06 PM.
08-14-2020, 01:03 PM
#33
Can you post a picture of your flywheel? Front and Back?
The back side of my mine was only machined around where the crank attached, so measuring the height of the clutch engagement area would have given me inaccurate numbers. I'm wondering if yours is machined differently.
The back side of my mine was only machined around where the crank attached, so measuring the height of the clutch engagement area would have given me inaccurate numbers. I'm wondering if yours is machined differently.
08-14-2020, 01:15 PM
#34
Can you post a picture of your flywheel? Front and Back?
The back side of my mine was only machined around where the crank attached, so measuring the height of the clutch engagement area would have given me inaccurate numbers. I'm wondering if yours is machined differently.
The back side of my mine was only machined around where the crank attached, so measuring the height of the clutch engagement area would have given me inaccurate numbers. I'm wondering if yours is machined differently.
08-15-2020, 11:39 AM
#35
I have one on my 6758 car and i shift between 6500 and 7k. I honestly havent noticed any notchiness. Just smooth shifts. I’ll probably be going with a clutchmasters fx400 next time, i have one of those on my 257 car and it’s definitely better
08-16-2020, 08:24 PM
#36
New Member
Thread Starter
try this out
With the vehicle running while warm, disengage the e-brake so it can roll.
Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit the rev limiter. You MUST DO THIS!! If you do not, then there is no point in performing this test.
Shift the car into 1st gear.
Rev the engine up, while the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor, until you feel the car start to move forward.
If the vehicle moves forward below the rev limiter, your clutch is dragging.
08-16-2020, 08:53 PM
#37
Just for reference I had multiple people all say my car was fine when driving it telling me it smooth shifted. You plain might have not noticed but it’s there.
try this out
With the vehicle running while warm, disengage the e-brake so it can roll.
Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit the rev limiter. You MUST DO THIS!! If you do not, then there is no point in performing this test.
Shift the car into 1st gear.
Rev the engine up, while the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor, until you feel the car start to move forward.
If the vehicle moves forward below the rev limiter, your clutch is dragging.
try this out
With the vehicle running while warm, disengage the e-brake so it can roll.
Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit the rev limiter. You MUST DO THIS!! If you do not, then there is no point in performing this test.
Shift the car into 1st gear.
Rev the engine up, while the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor, until you feel the car start to move forward.
If the vehicle moves forward below the rev limiter, your clutch is dragging.
08-17-2020, 03:31 PM
#38
New Member
Thread Starter
Neither of mine drag. I launch my built car @6-7k, just tested my daily and it doesnt drag. Idk how long it’ll last being launched with the 6758 in my daily. But it grabs nice, just way less aggressive as the fx400. My buddy runs a gmpp on a 257 lsj. It’s a ticking time bomb but it works. By the way, ive only had clutch drag when the tob is either on its way out or isnt bled properly
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KobarutoSS (08-18-2020)
08-18-2020, 09:38 PM
#41
New Member
I have a gmpp clutch and Luk 285 flywheel in my garage awaiting install this fall. Now I don’t know if I will use the LUK in my 08 LNF. I guess I gotta sell it....
08-20-2020, 04:23 PM
#42
New Member
Thread Starter
08-28-2020, 01:04 AM
#43
New Member
Thread Starter
Can you post a picture of your flywheel? Front and Back?
The back side of my mine was only machined around where the crank attached, so measuring the height of the clutch engagement area would have given me inaccurate numbers. I'm wondering if yours is machined differently.
The back side of my mine was only machined around where the crank attached, so measuring the height of the clutch engagement area would have given me inaccurate numbers. I'm wondering if yours is machined differently.
08-28-2020, 01:07 AM
#44
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Thread Starter
did you end up measuring everything?
09-05-2020, 11:32 PM
#45
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I just installed a new Oem Gm Lnf clutch disk, presusre plate and gm throw out bearing. With the Luk 285 Fw that a bought from rock auto. My setup feels strong and holds the power of my meth tune great. It feels exactly like my original stock clutch. Realise piont is basically at the same spot as well. About 1/4 or 3/8s of the way up off the floor for its intial bite. The only thing I find different so far is when my car is cold in the morning or the cold damp rainy days. My second to third shift feels a bit more notchy the i would like. Once it warms up to full operating temperature it shifts much better. I have done the test for clutch drag and took it up to about 5000 or 5200 rpm and it didn't try to move at all. Not one bit. Not that I could tell anyways. I will check it again soon all the way to about 5500 rpm or 5600 rpm . But it seems like my clutch is NOT dragging at all from what I can tell. All and all I would say that my setup holds great and feels totally stock. As expected. Just notchy 2nd to 3rd shifting when cold thats it. Nothing else. Even at high rpm wot shifts it is totally smooth.
Last edited by QuickSilver_SS; 09-05-2020 at 11:37 PM.
09-06-2020, 03:46 AM
#46
New Member
Thread Starter
I just installed a new Oem Gm Lnf clutch disk, presusre plate and gm throw out bearing. With the Luk 285 Fw that a bought from rock auto. My setup feels strong and holds the power of my meth tune great. It feels exactly like my original stock clutch. Realise piont is basically at the same spot as well. About 1/4 or 3/8s of the way up off the floor for its intial bite. The only thing I find different so far is when my car is cold in the morning or the cold damp rainy days. My second to third shift feels a bit more notchy the i would like. Once it warms up to full operating temperature it shifts much better. I have done the test for clutch drag and took it up to about 5000 or 5200 rpm and it didn't try to move at all. Not one bit. Not that I could tell anyways. I will check it again soon all the way to about 5500 rpm or 5600 rpm . But it seems like my clutch is NOT dragging at all from what I can tell. All and all I would say that my setup holds great and feels totally stock. As expected. Just notchy 2nd to 3rd shifting when cold thats it. Nothing else. Even at high rpm wot shifts it is totally smooth.
Warmed up engine
Flat Surface,
1st Gear,
clutch In
ebrake off
rev til rev limiter.
If your car doesn’t move your good. If it does that’s clutch drag.
09-06-2020, 09:57 AM
#47
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your supposed to be revving to redline. If your car moves then it’s dragging. It could be dragging at 6k for all you know you need to rev the entire way.
Warmed up engine
Flat Surface,
1st Gear,
clutch In
ebrake off
rev til rev limiter.
If your car doesn’t move your good. If it does that’s clutch drag.
Warmed up engine
Flat Surface,
1st Gear,
clutch In
ebrake off
rev til rev limiter.
If your car doesn’t move your good. If it does that’s clutch drag.
I will try that again as soon as i go out. But I HIGHLY doubt the extra 500 or 600 rpm will make the car move at all. But i will try it again today in the next few hours. I do not think the clutch is dragging for me at all. I will post back in a few hours.
09-06-2020, 03:15 PM
#48
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So i just tried it again right up too redline. ZERO movement of the car at all. So no clutch drag at all for me . Thank God. I bleed the clutch system again after I got home and the notchy feeling is almost totally gone now. It must have had a bit of air in the lines still. The tranny shifting feels a lot better now after bleeding it. I guess i got lucky with my LUK flywheel. Zero problems with mine at all. It was made in China. And it works for me. My setup feels great now. Almost perfect and back to normal. Thank God !!
09-06-2020, 04:06 PM
#49
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Thread Starter
So i just tried it again right up too redline. ZERO movement of the car at all. So no clutch drag at all for me . Thank God. I bleed the clutch system again after I got home and the notchy feeling is almost totally gone now. It must have had a bit of air in the lines still. The tranny shifting feels a lot better now after bleeding it. I guess i got lucky with my LUK flywheel. Zero problems with mine at all. It was made in China. And it works for me. My setup feels great now. Almost perfect and back to normal. Thank God !!
09-06-2020, 05:27 PM
#50
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I am using the OEM Gm Stock LNF Clutch from CED. Perhaps that is why my setup works so well and doesn't drag at all. It feels better after bleeding it today. On top of the clutch change. I also rebuilt both front Brembo's and also put in a new ABS module. So lots of air in the lines I guess. How much thicker is the GMPP clutch ??