I'm assuming my vacuum tank has a leak in it. Does anyone happen to have the part number for the vacuum tank for a 09 SS/TC.

 

Don't just start assuming and throwing parts at it.

When did you install the BPV and did you make sure the opening was pointing down? Also, did you happen to pinch the vacuum line that attaches to it, or is it not connected properlly?

 

I've had it installed for several months... car has 60k miles on it. I did a vacuum test on the vacuum tank and its not holding vacuum so...

 

As long as you did a test. When you said, "assume", it implied to me that you were guessing.

As far as a part number, I couldn't find one for you. Some bypass the tank but I'm not so sure about that route. Up to you.

 

Just bypass the tank, don't waste your money on a new one.

It's a simple and fast solution. haven't seen any downsides to it.

 

did you install it right?

 

I haven't had this issue up until recently... Not to mention the vacuum tank isn't holding vacuum so that can't be the BPV... Also, I've had it bypassed before and my idle and LTFT's ending up getting really bad, as well as low boost flutter. What I get is after I make long trips through mountains and such... Obviously its going to need to boost to get up some hills... If its anything under 2.5~ psi it just drops it to 0. So you can imagine it'll start jerking. Which is what set the code for P2261, because the BPV goes off 5 times or w/e it is in a certain amount of time.

 

Found it!

Number 903- Part Number 12626029

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...Fuel_Parts.pdf

 

Explain to me how the evap solenoid was 18 dollars but this vacuum tank is 92 dollars...........

 

Not a clue.

Maybe take yours out and repair the crack? There are ways to bind and melt plastic to make it stronger than it was.

 

Either that or find a totaled out one and just take it lol.

 

lol that too.

 

It only seems to happen after my LTFT's are set though. Which is very odd....

 

Where are they at?

 

Well.. I haven't checked. That I'm really assuming because it only happens after I drive like 200~ miles straight.

 

That is odd. Usually I would think that the vacuum tank being damaged would cause the symptoms right away... Maybe the crack isn't that big and it takes the engine being hot to expand it and cause the leak to get bigger?

Time to do some more diagnosing.

 

Possibly. Come to think of it if I only drive it like short distances it doesn't do it. So you may be right. I may bypass it till I can figure out what it is.

 

Check vac lines too-I had a small leak near the solenoid from swapping lines back and forth.
Just a thought-Summit Racing (and others?) sell vac canisters with internal check valves for considerably less...

 

There's a check valve in the vacuum tank to make sure vacuum is trapped. If that's broken, the tank won't hold it.

 

Read this:

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/4899039-post33.html

Service Information
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2009 Chevrolet Cobalt | Cobalt, G5 (VIN A) Service Manual | Document ID: 2324723
#PIP4669A: Intermittent DTC P2261 Setting - (Aug 10, 2009)

Subject: Intermittent DTC P2261 Setting

Models: 2008-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt SS
2008-2010 Chevrolet HHR SS

This PI was superseded to update model years. Please discard PIP4669.

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:

A technician may find DTC P2261: Turbocharger Bypass Valve Stuck Closed set with no problem found. It may be intermittent in nature or they may find the dtc will set after a hard acceleration, usually in third gear. DTC P2261 is a type B dtc and will not set on the first drive cycle the dtc sets, therefore multiple test drives should be performed to confirm repair.
Recommendation/Instructions:

SI diagnostics for this DTC states that the ECM compares the measured MAF reading to the modeled MAF and has detected a series of pulsations in the induction system that exceed a calibrated threshold. A snapshot of "Induction Data" will show the fault, however the tech may need to compare the snapshot data to another vehicle if they are unfamiliar with the readings. They should note a fluctuation and or a difference in the desired versus requested boost level. When diagnosing this dtc pay close attention to Circuit/System testing step #1. This step has you inspecting for any vacuum leaks, damage, restrictions, improper routing or connecting of the vacuum hoses on the charge air bypass valve solenoid, the charge air bypass valve, and the charge air bypass valve vacuum tank.

We have found leaking vacuum tanks causing this dtc. When testing the vacuum tank, care must be used or the results may not be valid. The vacuum tank has an integral check valve not noted in SI. To check the Vacuum Tank operation, disconnect the hose that runs from the tank to the Bypass Valve Solenoid at the solenoid and apply vacuum to the tank. The tank should be able to maintain vacuum with no decay. Note: If you remove the vacuum hose from the intake manifold and plug it and the decay stops the check valve is leaking, if the decay continues the tank itself is leaking .

Note: Front wheel drive platforms using the 2.0 Liter RPO (LNF) incorporate a charge air bypass valve supplemental vacuum tank. The purpose of the tank is to provide an instant source of vacuum to the bypass valve via the bypass solenoid (when it is commanded open by the ECM). This results in less pressure buildup under closed throttle conditions, thereby reducing compressor noise, surge and spool time.

 

I already know this issue. However for some unknown reason. I did a 3rd to 4th gear pull and it went in limp mode and a p0236 code. This car really does **** me off.

 

Do you have GM1? MAP sensor issue?

 

Did you also happen to check the lubrication on the bpv?

 

yep have had it for almost 2 years... and replaced my sensors a few months ago and soldered them.

 

Wait wait wait. Why does the nossle have to point downward? I have had mine up for 2 months and no issues. Is there a problem with flow?