replacement OEM brake pads squeak
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: 03-08-08
Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
replacement OEM brake pads squeak
I bought my TC brand new and three weeks ago turned the front rotors and replaced the pads with the OEM A/C Delco brake pads.
Ever since installing them they squeak with light pressure around 10 mph. I have performed many panic stops to get them hot but this only band aids the issue for a few miles.
I talked to the supplier and they said they would warranty the pads but I would prefer to ID the issue. I know some performance pads squeak but my original pads never squeaked I the 65,000 miles.
Ideas?
Ever since installing them they squeak with light pressure around 10 mph. I have performed many panic stops to get them hot but this only band aids the issue for a few miles.
I talked to the supplier and they said they would warranty the pads but I would prefer to ID the issue. I know some performance pads squeak but my original pads never squeaked I the 65,000 miles.
Ideas?
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: 01-21-08
Location: Woodstock, NY
Posts: 911
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if you didn't clean the rotor good you could metal fragments stuck in the pad material causing your squeak. when you turn or machine a rotor you should use a mix of warm water and dish soap to clean them off before using brake clean to spray them off. brake clean alone will only do half the job and you get a squeak. Just as an FYI my front brembo's squeak from time to time anyway. just the way the game goes.
#6
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
I just did mine and have no squeaking, although I replaced rotors as well.
I made sure to use all the brembo grease on the back of each pad and plate as well as added some brake grease to every metal contact point including the sides of the pins and retainer.
Then lots of hard braking for the break in process.
I made sure to use all the brembo grease on the back of each pad and plate as well as added some brake grease to every metal contact point including the sides of the pins and retainer.
Then lots of hard braking for the break in process.
#9
New Member
2 year bump, Im in the same situation. I bought the SS/TC in December with brand new replacement OEM rotors and pads. 8000 miles later they are squeeling and screeching when approaching a slow stand still. They are silent when i first start the car and brake for three red light stops and then the screeching sounds terrible that everyone at the intersection starts shooting me dirty looks. Im also getting steering wheel wobble when I brake. My guess is that the rotors are gone. But all I hear Brembo this, Brembo that... But do you hear Challenger R/T's rolling up screeching like that to a stop sign? No. STI's? No. and even a lot of you arent having that chalkboard screeching noise, so whats going on here?
#11
replacement OEM brake pads squeak
Properly lubing the pads is very important. it should be easy to pop them out lube the contact area and check the slider pins for wear.
#12
New Member
Not so easy to get the slider pins out... I tried to get them out to lube them by using a mallet to pop them out and they didn't wanna come out. Ive been reading that they do get seized up a lot so mine are probably seized as well. But shaking steering wheel while braking means the rotors are warped no?
#13
replacement OEM brake pads squeak
Stuck pins suck glad i dont live near salt.
Generally a shaking wheel on braking will indicate a warped rotor. How it got warped is important, stock rotors should not warp. Make sure that you dont have a pad that is sticking check for even thickness across all four pads. I had one that got stuck because i didn't clean all the brake dust from the calipers and ruined a set of brakes in a few thousand miles.
Generally a shaking wheel on braking will indicate a warped rotor. How it got warped is important, stock rotors should not warp. Make sure that you dont have a pad that is sticking check for even thickness across all four pads. I had one that got stuck because i didn't clean all the brake dust from the calipers and ruined a set of brakes in a few thousand miles.
#14
New Member
I gave the car to the Midas guys to diagnose. The tech told me there is nothing wrong with the brakes lol and just recommended buying cross drilled rotors cause stock rotors are gonna warp. I think I may have an excuse to buy my R1 premiums now...
#15
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Worst advice ever. Stock LNF rotors don't warp. At least not routinely. They are quality rotors made in Germany. Please don;t get cross drilled rotors, especially R1Concepts. They use cheap Chiwanese blanks and give them a fancy powder coat. Cross drilled rotors WILL crack. My advice is have your stock rotors turned at a NAPA for 20 bucks, and you should be good to go. I've had to do mine several times (but I road track my car)
#16
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
I think one of the problems is that GM has muddied the waters here;
GM sells several lines of "OEM" brakes - to the point, that I would suspect most people don't have a clue what replacement parts they have on their car.
The actual OEM (all european sourced) brakes are going to be VERY hard to beat in quality from a driving standpoint.
I made the mistake of using a GM recommended replacement rotor (raybestos) and they seemed to warp almost immediately - a little over a year later, I was fed up, and I ponied up for the expensive stuff - now it brakes like it should with no fuss, and no noise.
That midas advice was terrible - if you take it, the joke will eventually be on you.
GM sells several lines of "OEM" brakes - to the point, that I would suspect most people don't have a clue what replacement parts they have on their car.
The actual OEM (all european sourced) brakes are going to be VERY hard to beat in quality from a driving standpoint.
I made the mistake of using a GM recommended replacement rotor (raybestos) and they seemed to warp almost immediately - a little over a year later, I was fed up, and I ponied up for the expensive stuff - now it brakes like it should with no fuss, and no noise.
That midas advice was terrible - if you take it, the joke will eventually be on you.
#17
replacement OEM brake pads squeak
As stated above twice oem rotors made in Germany are great quality and they only cost about $50.
Crossed drilled rotors are not recommended for use with oem ferrodo pads they will most likely crack.
The midas guy is full of it colodude races his cobalt with an efr turbo on big boy courses and he uses stock rotors....
Crossed drilled rotors are not recommended for use with oem ferrodo pads they will most likely crack.
The midas guy is full of it colodude races his cobalt with an efr turbo on big boy courses and he uses stock rotors....
#19
New Member
Ok Ok guys you gave some fair sounding advice. Ive researched all about cross drilled rotors being weaker cause youre breaking down the surface area of the rotor, that I can understand and turning your rotors is only a temporary fix. Looks like my rotors are some OEM raybestos stuff and I highly doubt my pads are Ferrado but some other econoline OEM pads. But hating on R1 premiums? Ive read all about their top quality stuff on here and the group buy thread is full of happy customers. So I wont get cross drilled but just slotted cause hey I dont track my car, all I want is a silent roll to stop. Is that too much to ask for from a stock "german" rotor? I guess so. Also, I want to run Hawk pads on the slotted fyi.
#20
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
Ok Ok guys you gave some fair sounding advice. Ive researched all about cross drilled rotors being weaker cause youre breaking down the surface area of the rotor, that I can understand and turning your rotors is only a temporary fix. Looks like my rotors are some OEM raybestos stuff and I highly doubt my pads are Ferrado but some other econoline OEM pads. But hating on R1 premiums? Ive read all about their top quality stuff on here and the group buy thread is full of happy customers. So I wont get cross drilled but just slotted cause hey I dont track my car, all I want is a silent roll to stop. Is that too much to ask for from a stock "german" rotor? I guess so. Also, I want to run Hawk pads on the slotted fyi.
and these pads http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...autoModClar=SS
#21
New Member
I appreciate the input but Im so lost, so many different opinions on this site that its crazy. Ive read so many good reviews about the R1 premium rotors drilled or slotted and now I have people here saying dont get them. Whats wrong with R1? Can I get a reason? The group buy quote they gave me was insane. I like spirited driving on the street, thats it. I dont want to be squeeling like a pig going into slaughter everytime I stop cause its killing my enjoyment of this car, is that too much to ask for? Now onto Hawk pads.Ive heard from guys at my local meet that they are quieter than stock from those that are actually running them. Im gonna take another stab at lubing everything up tomorrow and see where that gets me.
#23
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
I appreciate the input but Im so lost, so many different opinions on this site that its crazy. Ive read so many good reviews about the R1 premium rotors drilled or slotted and now I have people here saying dont get them. Whats wrong with R1? Can I get a reason? The group buy quote they gave me was insane. I like spirited driving on the street, thats it. I dont want to be squeeling like a pig going into slaughter everytime I stop cause its killing my enjoyment of this car, is that too much to ask for? Now onto Hawk pads.Ive heard from guys at my local meet that they are quieter than stock from those that are actually running them. Im gonna take another stab at lubing everything up tomorrow and see where that gets me.
R1's are cheap crappy chinese steel. The set I linked I run for DD'ing (currently at about 15k on them haven't squeeled once), but will swap to the stock pads for racing (not that I've done much of that lately), I think it was like 275ish shipped to my door. Granted you are in Canada, but a drive to the US from Missisauga maybe worth it
#24
New Member
Colodude, Okay I see what youre showing me. But you sound like you drive it hard on the track and youre putting out way more power than me. So maybe R1's are not for you. But for someone like me that just has it as a fun DD, I cant see them getting that bad. But I might be taking your advice Ecaulk cause those Stoptech rotors are exactly what I want. Was 275 the price for all 4?
#25
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Colodude, Okay I see what youre showing me. But you sound like you drive it hard on the track and youre putting out way more power than me. So maybe R1's are not for you. But for someone like me that just has it as a fun DD, I cant see them getting that bad. But I might be taking your advice Ecaulk cause those Stoptech rotors are exactly what I want. Was 275 the price for all 4?