RPD monitor...
RPD monitor...
has anybody ADDED this option on AFTER they purchased the car. in other words...you had the original boost gauge then purchased the RPD and put it on yourself. is it hard to do? is it as easy as removing the old gauge (and panel) then connecting the new RPD? is the wiring already there behind the panel or do you have to hardwire it??
thanks TC'ers
thanks TC'ers
and if you don't believe BLAZ read here 
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/pictures-videos-64/scythe_snake-back-round-2-a-173807/

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/pictures-videos-64/scythe_snake-back-round-2-a-173807/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=173807
here is the thread. look at that harness. lol
here is the thread. look at that harness. lol
oh man!!!...i don't think i want to pull my dash apart and screw something up...these cars seem sooooooo sensitive. i probably would set off a million codes of something....idk, have to think about this one. how much is it?
Harness was 371, new molding for the RPD screen is 600, and the RPD screen is 490+. I got MASSIVE discounts cause my dad used to work for gm. And it costs 1500 + labor.
I might be able to get one for free if everything goes right. That's why I was asking. If it CAN work, I would save me $250 and I would still look stock and wouldn't have to spend money on aftermarket guages.
I done a lot of research and found a way to add the RPD (option UAF) display to my car WITHOUT having to replace my instrument panel wiring harness. I wrote up a "How To" on how to do it but ADMINS/MODS will not post it up. I posted it almost 2 weeks ago on how to install it, what numbers I used, and how/what wires need to be attached to. Since I didn't really know what I was doing when I installed it, it took me about 45 minutes to do. But since I have all the information now it shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes from start to finish.
NO programming is needed. It was just remove old a-pillar trim, splice a couple wires up there, install new a-pillar trim that also includes display, run 5 wires down to the DLC (data link connector you connect scan tools to at bottom of dash), tap into the high speed GMLAN wires, splice into the battery positive wire also located on the DLC, turn key on.
ALL done.
NO programming is needed. It was just remove old a-pillar trim, splice a couple wires up there, install new a-pillar trim that also includes display, run 5 wires down to the DLC (data link connector you connect scan tools to at bottom of dash), tap into the high speed GMLAN wires, splice into the battery positive wire also located on the DLC, turn key on.
ALL done.
I done a lot of research and found a way to add the RPD (option UAF) display to my car WITHOUT having to replace my instrument panel wiring harness. I wrote up a "How To" on how to do it but ADMINS/MODS will not post it up. I posted it almost 2 weeks ago on how to install it, what numbers I used, and how/what wires need to be attached to. Since I didn't really know what I was doing when I installed it, it took me about 45 minutes to do. But since I have all the information now it shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes from start to finish.
NO programming is needed. It was just remove old a-pillar trim, splice a couple wires up there, install new a-pillar trim that also includes display, run 5 wires down to the DLC (data link connector you connect scan tools to at bottom of dash), tap into the high speed GMLAN wires, splice into the battery positive wire also located on the DLC, turn key on.
ALL done.
NO programming is needed. It was just remove old a-pillar trim, splice a couple wires up there, install new a-pillar trim that also includes display, run 5 wires down to the DLC (data link connector you connect scan tools to at bottom of dash), tap into the high speed GMLAN wires, splice into the battery positive wire also located on the DLC, turn key on.
ALL done.
I guess that also means that the RPD screen has the reader software in it to be able to read the bus on its own.
It also means that you may be able to plug it into another GM car with GMLAN and have it work. (RPD Camaro anybody?..
That's correct. All I purchased was the trim which included the display and the connector that plugs into the display itself. The 2 wires that I used off the original 4 pin connector from the analog boost guage was just a ground wire, which is also located on the DLC, and the IGN Positive. All the rest that I spliced/connected to is located on the DLC.
The connector that goes to the back of the display is an 8 wire connector that has about 10 inches of wire on it. It's almost long enough to reach the DLC. I removed the door weatherstripping to hide the wires inbetween it and the dash. Then I just connected the wires from behind the DLC.
It might be possible for it to work on other types of cars since there was no programming involved.
I like it. It keeps that factory look. )
The connector that goes to the back of the display is an 8 wire connector that has about 10 inches of wire on it. It's almost long enough to reach the DLC. I removed the door weatherstripping to hide the wires inbetween it and the dash. Then I just connected the wires from behind the DLC.
It might be possible for it to work on other types of cars since there was no programming involved.
I like it. It keeps that factory look. )
That's correct. All I purchased was the trim which included the display and the connector that plugs into the display itself. The 2 wires that I used off the original 4 pin connector from the analog boost guage was just a ground wire, which is also located on the DLC, and the IGN Positive. All the rest that I spliced/connected to is located on the DLC.
The connector that goes to the back of the display is an 8 wire connector that has about 10 inches of wire on it. It's almost long enough to reach the DLC. I removed the door weatherstripping to hide the wires inbetween it and the dash. Then I just connected the wires from behind the DLC.
It might be possible for it to work on other types of cars since there was no programming involved.
I like it. It keeps that factory look. )
The connector that goes to the back of the display is an 8 wire connector that has about 10 inches of wire on it. It's almost long enough to reach the DLC. I removed the door weatherstripping to hide the wires inbetween it and the dash. Then I just connected the wires from behind the DLC.
It might be possible for it to work on other types of cars since there was no programming involved.
I like it. It keeps that factory look. )



