stage 3 brakes... WHAT A DIFFERENCE!
stage 3 brakes... WHAT A DIFFERENCE!
so i just ordered stage 3 brakes. rotors and pads are fine. but the stainless steel lines were not the right size and i did not get enough brake fluid either...
so i put on the front SS lines... one of the screws on both sides did not go in all the way in... and will leak under full pressure... tightened down all the way btw.
the rear lines just simply were wrong... so i didnt even bother... the screw sizes were not even right... so bad.
i filled up the brake fluid with the dot4 fluid they gave me. it was 500milli liters.
i previously emptyed the old brake fluid. and bled the brakes with the dot4 fluid. and put the bled fluid back into the master cylinder because it was not enough. didn't even reach the MIN line.
now i triple checked... bled brakes 3 times. no air in system. and filled up the fluid with dot3 fluid (all i had) and foot to the floor... nothing happens...
previously it took only a few seconds to stop from 60... but now with these new brakes it takes over 7 seconds to stop from 60-0, foot to the floor.
i realized that if i pump the brakes. i dont have to floor it for the brakes to engage... they grab earlier if i pump the brakes...
any ideas?
so i put on the front SS lines... one of the screws on both sides did not go in all the way in... and will leak under full pressure... tightened down all the way btw.
the rear lines just simply were wrong... so i didnt even bother... the screw sizes were not even right... so bad.
i filled up the brake fluid with the dot4 fluid they gave me. it was 500milli liters.
i previously emptyed the old brake fluid. and bled the brakes with the dot4 fluid. and put the bled fluid back into the master cylinder because it was not enough. didn't even reach the MIN line.
now i triple checked... bled brakes 3 times. no air in system. and filled up the fluid with dot3 fluid (all i had) and foot to the floor... nothing happens...
previously it took only a few seconds to stop from 60... but now with these new brakes it takes over 7 seconds to stop from 60-0, foot to the floor.
i realized that if i pump the brakes. i dont have to floor it for the brakes to engage... they grab earlier if i pump the brakes...
any ideas?
why do people have to put "stage" in front of things to sell? lol
fix your lines that are leaking. your losing pressure when applying the brakes and sucking in air also. you can bleed your brakes 1000 times, and it wont fix things if the system is leaking.
fix your lines that are leaking. your losing pressure when applying the brakes and sucking in air also. you can bleed your brakes 1000 times, and it wont fix things if the system is leaking.
lol... i bought them from (what i thought) a reputable seller on this site. wont put out names unless the seller helps me...
i don't have the SS lines on... the stock ones are back in...
otherwise yes... i would still have air in the system.. lol
i don't have the SS lines on... the stock ones are back in...
otherwise yes... i would still have air in the system.. lol
Who sells staged brake kits for the SS/TC? As far as components go, you're not gonna do better than stock Brembos with stock Ferrodo pads. The stock rotors are excellent, up front anyway. Drilled and slotted is just for looks and is actually a downgrade. The rear brakes have their issues but there isn't a good replacement for them except for the pads. Stainless Steel brake lines are an upgrade. Anything that is SS but colored differently (gold or titanium) is just a color change. Sounds like you got air in your lines or in a caliper or something. I know you said that you got it all out but it doesn't take much. Bleeding the system dry was not a good idea.
Hell, I dunno.
Hope you get it fixed. Good luck.
Hell, I dunno.
Hope you get it fixed. Good luck.
a buddy of mine works at KIA and says that they have air in the ABS system and the only way to get it out is with a computer. and another friend says that some newer GMs have the same thing, and i will need to get my hands on a tech 2
No no no, you must have bled them wrong or changed the fluid wrong. Did you pull out all of the DOT3 fluid, like to the point the reservour was empty, before you put in the DOT4? Then you most likely have air trapped in your master cylinder. If your lines are no longer leaking and you bled them to make sure there is no air in them, then the only thing I can think of is air in your master cylinder.
This whole thread is full of wrong.
I really would like to know who sells "stage 3" brakes for these cars. As said above, it doesn't get much better than stock brembos. Are they larger rotors and calipers?
Anyways, yes if you completely drained all the fluid and let it run dry, you probably have air in the ABS system that needs bled with a tech2. Also, the clutch hydraulics are tied into the brake master cylinder so you will need to bleed that as well to make sure no air got in there.
I really would like to know who sells "stage 3" brakes for these cars. As said above, it doesn't get much better than stock brembos. Are they larger rotors and calipers?
Anyways, yes if you completely drained all the fluid and let it run dry, you probably have air in the ABS system that needs bled with a tech2. Also, the clutch hydraulics are tied into the brake master cylinder so you will need to bleed that as well to make sure no air got in there.
No no no, you must have bled them wrong or changed the fluid wrong. Did you pull out all of the DOT3 fluid, like to the point the reservour was empty, before you put in the DOT4? Then you most likely have air trapped in your master cylinder. If your lines are no longer leaking and you bled them to make sure there is no air in them, then the only thing I can think of is air in your master cylinder.
how do i get air out of the master cylinder?
This whole thread is full of wrong.
I really would like to know who sells "stage 3" brakes for these cars. As said above, it doesn't get much better than stock brembos. Are they larger rotors and calipers?
Anyways, yes if you completely drained all the fluid and let it run dry, you probably have air in the ABS system that needs bled with a tech2. Also, the clutch hydraulics are tied into the brake master cylinder so you will need to bleed that as well to make sure no air got in there.
I really would like to know who sells "stage 3" brakes for these cars. As said above, it doesn't get much better than stock brembos. Are they larger rotors and calipers?
Anyways, yes if you completely drained all the fluid and let it run dry, you probably have air in the ABS system that needs bled with a tech2. Also, the clutch hydraulics are tied into the brake master cylinder so you will need to bleed that as well to make sure no air got in there.
dumb question... do we have a clutch fluid reservoir. ? if so where is it?
if so, i don't have a metal mityvac... is there another way of doing it ?
No clutch fluid reservoir, brakes and clutch share the same one.
You bleed until you have no more air period.
You can't just mix brake fluids either, it's not like the higher the number the better it is, stick with DOT 3.
You bleed until you have no more air period.
You can't just mix brake fluids either, it's not like the higher the number the better it is, stick with DOT 3.
I track cars. I use
Wilwood Hi-Tempit 570 , tis a high performance brake fluid that far exceeds the minimum
FMVSS-1161 requirements for a DOT 3 motor vehicle brake fluid. It is used as a high
performance brake fluid for racing. It is also used by OEM's as a factory filled brake fluid.
Good post.
Wilwood Hi-Tempit 570 , tis a high performance brake fluid that far exceeds the minimum
FMVSS-1161 requirements for a DOT 3 motor vehicle brake fluid. It is used as a high
performance brake fluid for racing. It is also used by OEM's as a factory filled brake fluid.
This whole thread is full of wrong.
I really would like to know who sells "stage 3" brakes for these cars. As said above, it doesn't get much better than stock brembos. Are they larger rotors and calipers?
Anyways, yes if you completely drained all the fluid and let it run dry, you probably have air in the ABS system that needs bled with a tech2. Also, the clutch hydraulics are tied into the brake master cylinder so you will need to bleed that as well to make sure no air got in there.
I really would like to know who sells "stage 3" brakes for these cars. As said above, it doesn't get much better than stock brembos. Are they larger rotors and calipers?
Anyways, yes if you completely drained all the fluid and let it run dry, you probably have air in the ABS system that needs bled with a tech2. Also, the clutch hydraulics are tied into the brake master cylinder so you will need to bleed that as well to make sure no air got in there.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; Sep 11, 2012 at 08:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I checked pretty much every vendor wbaite that is on this forun the only vendor that sells a brake kit for the lnf is jm auto racing but none of them say anything about stage kits
http://www.jmautoracing.com/mobile/p...=2.0T&pfcID=92
http://www.jmautoracing.com/mobile/p...=2.0T&pfcID=92
^ would be because they dont make stage kit's for brakes for the cobalt never have and never will (a big brake kit is not even a staged upgrade for the record and if it states that it's complete BS)in 7+years but hey a sales gimmick is just that! How could they sell you a supposed upgraded brake kit that's "stage 3" but around the same cost as stock brembo setup? The answer is you were duped.. And should have just went with a company that is known for good products at a good price... Want no brake fade or dust then just change the pad's/fluid on your stock setup. If you notice serious fade and suspect that it's the rubber lines/or see them leaking then go stainless but ive have yet to hear about the positives on a TC balt if you do as most just change the fluid to one with a higher boiling point to avoid brake fade/issues and a better pad for less dust and better initial bite! You got taken! It happens!


