Stock Block
Stock Block
Want to know more about the ability of the LNF stock block. Its known or should i say forecasted that the stock internals can hold about 500whp. My question is what does the block hold i kno there is a mbr fully built on stock block but there doesnt seem to be alot of fully built motor on stock block. This is more for my education on the lnf platform. Thanx for the insight.
Figure it would be a good discussion, I kno ZZP says their gridled block has better cooling and potential but if the internals can hit 500whp then the block should be able to sustain that hp as well or maybe more..
With high amounts of boost the cylinder wall start to fatigue and eventually will give out. Thats where the zzp block comes into play. It stiffens the walls alot and they wont deform over time. Also my case was to much boost and cylider pressures. about 34 ish psi it was at.
ZZP made 600+ WHP on a 100% stock bottom end. It can be done, the motor will not live for long tho. One of the biggest things is the stock ring end gaps being to small that they touch with high amounts of boost and heat causing excessive wear and ring failures. If they touch even once they will never seal right again.
ZZP made 600+ WHP on a 100% stock bottom end. It can be done, the motor will not live for long tho. One of the biggest things is the stock ring end gaps being to small that they touch with high amounts of boost and heat causing excessive wear and ring failures. If they touch even once they will never seal right again.
ok i follow C miller....wait you were pushing out 34 on the 5857? was the turbo maxing out? very interested in this, you know my goals so i think i need the zzp block anyway im at $4,500 left to finish my car plus tuning, still deciding on this booct controller though.
I doubt a ZFR with pump gas and a good tune would hurt a stock block. The thing that would be more likely to go would the the tranny. It would go vroom vroom boom!
EDIT: Thought this was the zfr stock block thread, whoops. Either way what I said stands.
EDIT: Thought this was the zfr stock block thread, whoops. Either way what I said stands.
On the stock block 32 should last for awhile. I really wouldn't go much over 30 on the stock block. I have seen another option someone here is doing as well. Making stronger sleeves for the stock bores. I could see them with a zzp girdle being over a 1000 whp capable block.
On the stock block 32 should last for awhile. I really wouldn't go much over 30 on the stock block. I have seen another option someone here is doing as well. Making stronger sleeves for the stock bores. I could see them with a zzp girdle being over a 1000 whp capable block.
I said for the stock bores. But yes for the most of the community the zzp girdle will be more then enough. I don't know how the new sleeves will hold up but they are spun steel instead of pored like the stockers. It has not been done yet that I know of. So basically it is a stronger sleeve that is the exact same size. No coolant jacket cutting. I will be only doing the zzp block tho. Will be more then enough for 8-900 hp.
that would be retarded on the balt i cant imagine 800hp out a balt...
COBE far as fuel mod, i have zzp intake cam with bigger fuel lobe, will be buying new injectors with upgraded orings from monograt, zzp 5th injector kit and Pwerks 700hp intank fuel pump.
COBE far as fuel mod, i have zzp intake cam with bigger fuel lobe, will be buying new injectors with upgraded orings from monograt, zzp 5th injector kit and Pwerks 700hp intank fuel pump.
the stock block is stout without a doubt..... alot of the blown up bottom ends are because of detonation and crappy ass tuning. sure you get the batch of week pistons, blocks or whatever but a lot of them arent.
understandibly this is 2 different power levels we are talking here.... i made 442whp 450 ft lbs on a mustang dyno at 6200 on setup one then i went down in turbo size and made 416whp 427 ft lbs. lets keep in mind i daily drove this car and put about 30k on it......this is includes a 45 minute commute to and from work every morning in all weather conditions, wherever i went after that, a few 1000 mile plus trips and so forth. not to mention the car saw at the very very minimum 75+ dyno passes and the last setup we did for a road corse. meaning it saw long 3rd through 4th gear pulls for longer amounts of time. i didnt baby the car on the street either by all means and the stock top end and bottom end NEVER failed. not even the trans.
a good WELL BUILT race motor that gets 15 hours is a good motor. by most peoples standards they would be like WTF?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! keep in mind a good funny car, top fuel or any nitro methane car team i would tear down after every single run for the most part. when running the nastalgia funny cars we would see how long a motor lasts but after every run the motor was leaked, all the rockers weres re torqued and shimmed, oil drained and added new 70 weight, and so forth and then after the weekend race we would tear it down the bare bones. with top fuel and funny car the motors were torn down right to the block. gms ecotecs were only designed to deal with 15 hours roughly at their peak. might not sound like a lot of time there but when you think of what your putting the motor through for that amount of time its A LOT of time.
understandibly this is 2 different power levels we are talking here.... i made 442whp 450 ft lbs on a mustang dyno at 6200 on setup one then i went down in turbo size and made 416whp 427 ft lbs. lets keep in mind i daily drove this car and put about 30k on it......this is includes a 45 minute commute to and from work every morning in all weather conditions, wherever i went after that, a few 1000 mile plus trips and so forth. not to mention the car saw at the very very minimum 75+ dyno passes and the last setup we did for a road corse. meaning it saw long 3rd through 4th gear pulls for longer amounts of time. i didnt baby the car on the street either by all means and the stock top end and bottom end NEVER failed. not even the trans.
a good WELL BUILT race motor that gets 15 hours is a good motor. by most peoples standards they would be like WTF?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! keep in mind a good funny car, top fuel or any nitro methane car team i would tear down after every single run for the most part. when running the nastalgia funny cars we would see how long a motor lasts but after every run the motor was leaked, all the rockers weres re torqued and shimmed, oil drained and added new 70 weight, and so forth and then after the weekend race we would tear it down the bare bones. with top fuel and funny car the motors were torn down right to the block. gms ecotecs were only designed to deal with 15 hours roughly at their peak. might not sound like a lot of time there but when you think of what your putting the motor through for that amount of time its A LOT of time.
Great info, what boost pressures were you running, seems like the more boost you throw at it the shorter the longevity of the motor, Cmiller blew his over 30psi i believe he was making over 500 i believe he make have to chime in and correct me. But im more then positive for my goals im going to nee the gridled block or sleeve my motor to run my goal daily. Sumone said to just get the boost controller and tune down the boost, BUT wouldnt the type of tune be the issue like Omitek was saying? im thinking slightly more aggressive then conservative. you have a pm Omitek
Last edited by Nfamous60; Nov 5, 2012 at 09:13 AM.


