sway bar? strut bar?
rear sway bar, from powell race shop, you have 3 choices, 1 1.25 and 1.5 inch thick
front strut bars are pointless, our strut towers are welded to the firewall = strut bar
front sway bar if you have fe5 setup ur good, fe1 u might wanna do the fe5 upgrade, but its a reallllll pain in the ass. but i see this is lnf section so you are fe5, which is the thickest front sway bar out there i believe. your good on that aspect
to sum it up, the rear sway bar is a GREAT addition, everything else not so much.
front strut bars are pointless, our strut towers are welded to the firewall = strut bar
front sway bar if you have fe5 setup ur good, fe1 u might wanna do the fe5 upgrade, but its a reallllll pain in the ass. but i see this is lnf section so you are fe5, which is the thickest front sway bar out there i believe. your good on that aspect
to sum it up, the rear sway bar is a GREAT addition, everything else not so much.
do you only drive on street or do you road race?
street is exactly that a street bar if you road race or do alot of canyons and **** go with hardcore or xxx i have the hardcore and i love it!
street is exactly that a street bar if you road race or do alot of canyons and **** go with hardcore or xxx i have the hardcore and i love it!
1.0 = street
1.25 = hardcore
1.5 = XXX
I have the hardcore, when it first came out people said it might be too much for daily driving. Well i have only done one autocross in this car,it was the first year i owned it (2004)> i bought the hardcore bar about 3 weeks ago, i wish it was my first mod. its great for daily driving, just dont be stupid in the rain. **** even in the rain i feel stable, and the rear doesnt step out.
I went with the hardcore because i felt i knew how my car handled after putting 150k kms on it, so i figured it would be a great upgrade and not too much. but if it was, i knew how the car would react so i could control it and fix my driving habits. I havent had to change any habits, except for putting my foot down a little MORE during turns.... love it.
1.25 = hardcore
1.5 = XXX
I have the hardcore, when it first came out people said it might be too much for daily driving. Well i have only done one autocross in this car,it was the first year i owned it (2004)> i bought the hardcore bar about 3 weeks ago, i wish it was my first mod. its great for daily driving, just dont be stupid in the rain. **** even in the rain i feel stable, and the rear doesnt step out.
I went with the hardcore because i felt i knew how my car handled after putting 150k kms on it, so i figured it would be a great upgrade and not too much. but if it was, i knew how the car would react so i could control it and fix my driving habits. I havent had to change any habits, except for putting my foot down a little MORE during turns.... love it.
I have the Eibach rear sway bar. Definately an advantage in cornering. I love hitting the winding back roads on the weekend to relax. However, the sway bar should be accompanied by a great set of sneakers to take full advantage.
Honestly, Strut bar helps but for real handling it's gonna be in your front and rear sway. Also if you have the right setup for your suspension like FE5 struts and shocks, that's the setup I have on my car now, and Eibach really sucks, the rear sway bar I had from them broke not even a year old, Like what 09sscalicobalt just depends on what your using your ride for, an everyday driver, street or on the track/canyon, as from what I always hear from every member on this site "you decide" lol
they dont make a strut bar for ss/tc cars and all you need is a rear....street or hardcore make up your mind but you wont need a xxx bar
but in my opinion use street and youll be find pm this guy for a price k
Cobalt SS Network - View Profile: qwikredline
but in my opinion use street and youll be find pm this guy for a price k
Cobalt SS Network - View Profile: qwikredline
Honestly, Strut bar helps but for real handling it's gonna be in your front and rear sway. Also if you have the right setup for your suspension like FE5 struts and shocks, that's the setup I have on my car now, and Eibach really sucks, the rear sway bar I had from them broke not even a year old, Like what 09sscalicobalt just depends on what your using your ride for, an everyday driver, street or on the track/canyon, as from what I always hear from every member on this site "you decide" lol
Rear sway bar from powell is amazing, built perfect and performs just as-well. Although depending on what model you are you may need some supporting mods, like lnf suspension as an example. I have the hardcore model, So mush fun if you know how to use it!
Strut bar is pointless on are cars, I had one for looks and thats exaclty what it did, looks.
Strut bar is pointless on are cars, I had one for looks and thats exaclty what it did, looks.
I have the Eibach rear sway, and am completely happy with it.
I think the ones that break may have been weakened by rust if I remember those threads correctly.
Welp, I live in the desert. No rust. I win!
I think the ones that break may have been weakened by rust if I remember those threads correctly.
Welp, I live in the desert. No rust. I win!
thanks Mike.
I guess i should say I was fortunate with my sway bar ideas back in 04-05, that I had engineering back up from GM to work with, a fine group ofyoung guys.
for the record, rust damage just accellerates the issue.
the sway bar on a twisting beam is an added torsion part to a beam that is in effect a great big sway bar in itself.
the best permanent and hopelessly impractical solution for the aftermarket, is a weld in sway bar. we did that for grand am, a 1.75 cm tube.
for an addon you have to attach it.
how to attach it?
first idea is a welded on plate ( progress, as copied by ttr)
IF the material is correct (another discussion, mild steel is not the right material) a welded on plate will yield (bend) at the plate just back of the welded part where is is attached. No good.
IF the material is correct, an Eibach "flattened bar" will yield ( bend) at the point the tube is flattened to be the attachment point. Thats the weakest part.
IF the material is correct ( my bars are German manufactured chrome alloy tube) and the tube is machined, a tubular insert installed and welded top and bottom of the insert and then bolted through the tube to the twisting beam, the bar will not yield or bend at the attachment point
Thats how ours work for attachment. Hope this helps.
BTW, flattened tubes for conventional sway bars are popular. The front bar is made that way on Delta cars. It just doesnt work in the twisting beam application. I am not sure Eibach care much though...
I guess i should say I was fortunate with my sway bar ideas back in 04-05, that I had engineering back up from GM to work with, a fine group ofyoung guys.
for the record, rust damage just accellerates the issue.
the sway bar on a twisting beam is an added torsion part to a beam that is in effect a great big sway bar in itself.
the best permanent and hopelessly impractical solution for the aftermarket, is a weld in sway bar. we did that for grand am, a 1.75 cm tube.
for an addon you have to attach it.
how to attach it?
first idea is a welded on plate ( progress, as copied by ttr)
IF the material is correct (another discussion, mild steel is not the right material) a welded on plate will yield (bend) at the plate just back of the welded part where is is attached. No good.
IF the material is correct, an Eibach "flattened bar" will yield ( bend) at the point the tube is flattened to be the attachment point. Thats the weakest part.
IF the material is correct ( my bars are German manufactured chrome alloy tube) and the tube is machined, a tubular insert installed and welded top and bottom of the insert and then bolted through the tube to the twisting beam, the bar will not yield or bend at the attachment point
Thats how ours work for attachment. Hope this helps.
BTW, flattened tubes for conventional sway bars are popular. The front bar is made that way on Delta cars. It just doesnt work in the twisting beam application. I am not sure Eibach care much though...
thanks Mike.
I guess i should say I was fortunate with my sway bar ideas back in 04-05, that I had engineering back up from GM to work with, a fine group ofyoung guys.
for the record, rust damage just accellerates the issue.
the sway bar on a twisting beam is an added torsion part to a beam that is in effect a great big sway bar in itself.
the best permanent and hopelessly impractical solution for the aftermarket, is a weld in sway bar. we did that for grand am, a 1.75 cm tube.
for an addon you have to attach it.
how to attach it?
first idea is a welded on plate ( progress, as copied by ttr)
IF the material is correct (another discussion, mild steel is not the right material) a welded on plate will yield (bend) at the plate just back of the welded part where is is attached. No good.
IF the material is correct, an Eibach "flattened bar" will yield ( bend) at the point the tube is flattened to be the attachment point. Thats the weakest part.
IF the material is correct ( my bars are German manufactured chrome alloy tube) and the tube is machined, a tubular insert installed and welded top and bottom of the insert and then bolted through the tube to the twisting beam, the bar will not yield or bend at the attachment point
Thats how ours work for attachment. Hope this helps.
BTW, flattened tubes for conventional sway bars are popular. The front bar is made that way on Delta cars. It just doesnt work in the twisting beam application. I am not sure Eibach care much though...
I guess i should say I was fortunate with my sway bar ideas back in 04-05, that I had engineering back up from GM to work with, a fine group ofyoung guys.
for the record, rust damage just accellerates the issue.
the sway bar on a twisting beam is an added torsion part to a beam that is in effect a great big sway bar in itself.
the best permanent and hopelessly impractical solution for the aftermarket, is a weld in sway bar. we did that for grand am, a 1.75 cm tube.
for an addon you have to attach it.
how to attach it?
first idea is a welded on plate ( progress, as copied by ttr)
IF the material is correct (another discussion, mild steel is not the right material) a welded on plate will yield (bend) at the plate just back of the welded part where is is attached. No good.
IF the material is correct, an Eibach "flattened bar" will yield ( bend) at the point the tube is flattened to be the attachment point. Thats the weakest part.
IF the material is correct ( my bars are German manufactured chrome alloy tube) and the tube is machined, a tubular insert installed and welded top and bottom of the insert and then bolted through the tube to the twisting beam, the bar will not yield or bend at the attachment point
Thats how ours work for attachment. Hope this helps.
BTW, flattened tubes for conventional sway bars are popular. The front bar is made that way on Delta cars. It just doesnt work in the twisting beam application. I am not sure Eibach care much though...
custom colors are possible stock colors are as detailed, all in stock.
xXx in red.
Street rear sway bar 1.0 A rear mounted, easily installed bar that is best for FE3 base suspension cars; for drivers who enjoy their cars on the street and do not auto cross or race their cars. . All PRS bars are supplied with mounting hardware and nut plates, installs in a few minutes. Powdercoated durable finish. Powell bars are made from Chrome Alloy material made in Germany. Chromealloy steel will remain elastic and bend through the desired range of motion without "going plastic". textured black or red 2004-2010 all Delta $220.00
Hardcore rear sway bar 1.25 This is the original sized bar devised by John Powell and developed with GM chassis engineers, and used on the famous "Time Attack" Cobalt driven to overall victory by John Heinricy in 2005. Best for FE5 suspension cars, and drivers who track their cars as well as enjoying spirited street performance. All Powell bars are mandrel bent and then placed in a jig, machined and inserts TIG welded through the bar and normalized. The Delta twisting beam rear suspension is not like other suspension designs. Its simple, effective, and any add-on sway bar properly made and attached will change the shear point and change the rear roll center. textured black or red 2004-2010 all Delta $240.00
Triple X rear sway bar 1.50 The newest rear bar developed by John in response to customer requests. Perfectly fine for expert drivers on the street. Like any of our add-on suspension parts, best for track use. . Best for upgraded suspensions with spherical front suspension joints, stiffer/shorter springs and track use. When the time attack Cobalt rear bar was devised, it was to compliment a twisting beam that had a weld in rear bar, 1.75 x .095 chromealloy and a 1.25 add on bar. This gave the desired stiffness to suit John Heinricy's inimitable track driving style. In 2011,National SCCA autocross competitors and track stars, Scott Herbert, Allan Densmore and Warren Wang asked John to come up with a more aggressive rear bar for use with a stock rear twisting beam.. The Triple X is just that, and gets closer to the Time Attack configuration, as stock twisting beams have a 22 mm solid weld in bar, which is not as stiff as the original Time Attack rear beam textured black or red 2004-2010 all Delta $275.00
xXx in red.
Street rear sway bar 1.0 A rear mounted, easily installed bar that is best for FE3 base suspension cars; for drivers who enjoy their cars on the street and do not auto cross or race their cars. . All PRS bars are supplied with mounting hardware and nut plates, installs in a few minutes. Powdercoated durable finish. Powell bars are made from Chrome Alloy material made in Germany. Chromealloy steel will remain elastic and bend through the desired range of motion without "going plastic". textured black or red 2004-2010 all Delta $220.00
Hardcore rear sway bar 1.25 This is the original sized bar devised by John Powell and developed with GM chassis engineers, and used on the famous "Time Attack" Cobalt driven to overall victory by John Heinricy in 2005. Best for FE5 suspension cars, and drivers who track their cars as well as enjoying spirited street performance. All Powell bars are mandrel bent and then placed in a jig, machined and inserts TIG welded through the bar and normalized. The Delta twisting beam rear suspension is not like other suspension designs. Its simple, effective, and any add-on sway bar properly made and attached will change the shear point and change the rear roll center. textured black or red 2004-2010 all Delta $240.00
Triple X rear sway bar 1.50 The newest rear bar developed by John in response to customer requests. Perfectly fine for expert drivers on the street. Like any of our add-on suspension parts, best for track use. . Best for upgraded suspensions with spherical front suspension joints, stiffer/shorter springs and track use. When the time attack Cobalt rear bar was devised, it was to compliment a twisting beam that had a weld in rear bar, 1.75 x .095 chromealloy and a 1.25 add on bar. This gave the desired stiffness to suit John Heinricy's inimitable track driving style. In 2011,National SCCA autocross competitors and track stars, Scott Herbert, Allan Densmore and Warren Wang asked John to come up with a more aggressive rear bar for use with a stock rear twisting beam.. The Triple X is just that, and gets closer to the Time Attack configuration, as stock twisting beams have a 22 mm solid weld in bar, which is not as stiff as the original Time Attack rear beam textured black or red 2004-2010 all Delta $275.00
This is going to be my next purchase ...... I wanted to put a rear sway on my SS/SC and never got around to it ..... I didn't think it was needed for what i do ( spirited street driving ) .
The roads in my area are very twisty country roads so I'm more than ready for a powell bar for my TC..... now I need to make a choice .... street or hardcore hmmm.... I've driven a SS for 6 years in one form or another , so i know the car pretty well. Accepting suggestions 8)
The roads in my area are very twisty country roads so I'm more than ready for a powell bar for my TC..... now I need to make a choice .... street or hardcore hmmm.... I've driven a SS for 6 years in one form or another , so i know the car pretty well. Accepting suggestions 8)
I love mine
