i had this happen to me...wa sjust a sticking brake line

 

Jesus, you are so ******* annoying!

You obviously have no mechanical knowledge or understanding of anything automotive, but then you try to explain the problems we're having with nothing more than aggressive driving. Your bullshit love of GM has blinded you!

I love GM, they pay me pretty well...but I'm not going to pretend that this is a problem that I somehow inflicted myself...

I am suffering from the same problem and I have 4k miles on my car...not 100k miles...4k miles

I also have a laundry list of other issues and many of them are far from minor...so stop with your rhetoric bullshit.

 

I just got a quote on new pad pads alone are 350.00 plus tax dang those are expensive pads lol I dont even want to know how much GM wants for rotors im goin aftermarket

 

Obviously you need to take a class in how to properly take care of a car then because from the looks of some of them pics (krispy) I would say the brakes look like they have been through a damn rally race.... HOLY **** half of this is caused by slamming the brakes too early during break in procedure.. You ******* people cannot sit here and tell me you don't ******* rod your cars .. YEAH right ! Do you understand the stress these brakes are under with 18" stock rims and it is real easy to get the car going 60 + in a few seconds without even realizing you are doing it ... I know guys who own other vehicles with BREMBOS who smoke the rear brake pads in under 500 MILES of road racing .. And I am not talking about PADS I am talking about how the clips get messed up from stomping the brakes real hard from improper factory alignment here is one ******* post I found in the 2 seconds of searching google for ***** sake get off your god damn high horse and realize I am not a GM fanboi and I dont give a **** if you work for them this isnt a GM problem fools this is a BREMBO problem.. The amount of play the brembo pads can have is VERY minimal !

http://www.350zmotoring.com/forums/3...-unevenly.html

same principles with the BREMBOS

Maybe you should gain some knowlege in automotive performance world and realize the brembos have serious ******* problems on all mass produced vehicles.


Cry me a river my 20k cobalt brembos are off alignment WOW !!!!

 

mine is doin the same thing with 4k on it..i do all highway driving....prolly gonna take it apart this weekend and see whats up with it

 

super newb question but am I wrong that BREMBOS are only on the front? I thought they were just regular chevy OEM brakes in the back. If im wrong I apologize but if I'm right, I would like to hear what Bowtietillidie has to say.. hahaha

 

You are really starting to get annoying and its obvious your don't know what you are talking about. First off, just to clarify the rear brakes on this car are NOT Brembo's so get that out of your head. Second, how you can not see the feature on the bracket contacting the rotor I don't understand, nor can I understand how that could ever possibly be a drivers fault. The rotor and bracket should not contact under any condition, that is necessary for a braking system to work correctly.

Also, I don't understand why you think that:

A. I should even have to touch the rear brakes under normal operation in under 25k miles (I only have 11.5k miles on the vehicle, I drive most highway, not much brake use)
B. Why you think that they look like they have been through a rally race. Take a look at the pic below of through the caliper. There is PLENTY of brake pad material left.



I really think you actually have absolutely no clue what you are talking about. All you are doing is being an immature troll with no correct knowledge when it comes to the subject matter at hand.

 

19000 miles, front rotors replaced under warranty. Rears starting to grind when wet. Outer rotorside perfect, inner can feel scorned. Hitting the dealer on Monday. Oh 45 and baby car, has to last 4 yrs and 160,000 miles.

 

I have those same grooves on my drivers side outer side of the rear rotor.

I'll try to post a pic later

 

Bowtie is an uneducated **** stick with blind GM love and a chip on his shoulder because he can change his own oil.

Seriously, this guy is a ******* joke. He knows nothing about anyone's vehicle care or driving habits...he just makes generalized bullshit statements...

 

REAR PADS:



REAR ROTOR:
Most likely: BREMBO #25814(aftermarket replacement, not stock rotor)

 

Yea they gave me a letter saying that it is natural for them to be like that.

 

I updated my post on the first page because I had time to take a closer look today... Wish I could take back my vote!

After inspecting the rears today using an inspection mirror, I find both inside rear rotors grooved about 5/16" in from the outer edge. Looks like around a .020 deep groove about .050 wide, but I'll keep an eye on them. I do all highway miles. Looks like from casting flash on the caliper mounting bracket rubbing the rotor during hard cornering. (Same as the member that posted pix on the first page) I didn't have an 18mm wrench to get the bracket off to file the flash today and a socket didn't get on the bolts square to break them loose.

The inside pads do appear to be wearing more than the outside though. Another thread on that led me to take a closer look.

 

Make sure you lube up your pads before you put them back in the bracket.

 

Do you mean the caliper pins or the pad mounting surfaces themselves?
What type of lube?

It'll be a week before I can get the caliper brackets off to clean up the burrs so I'd like to do it right.

 

Both, but I meant the pad mounting points in particular. Use a brake lube. I use CRC Sta-Lube most parts stores have it. Try to get an actual brake lube and not just a generic silver/copper anitseize.

 

make sure what you use is a dedicated brake grease

 

UMMM GAY my car just says SRV BRAKE SYSTEM out of no where what the hell is that and i look at my rotars and them bitches are fucked up and when i drive against walls i can hear my pads scraping my rotors

 

The SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM message isnt related to pads or rotors, it means there a problem(or it thinks theres a problem) with the booster or possibly the OHB system.

See the dealer.

 

Don't everybody shoot flaming arrows at me. BUT! The pictures krispy posted show an obvious defect. TRUE! It appears to me that removing the calipers and hitting the "flash" one time real quick with a die grinder would take care of the problem. BUT! I TRULY believe a lot of the complaints about grinding noises are pretty much standard for high performance, metallic brakes. krispy correct me if you think I'm wrong. When you park your car in the evening the brakes are warm to hot depending on how you use them. Over night as the brakes cool the humid night air condenses on the pads and cast iron rotors. In the morning when you release the parking brake you hear a "snap" as the rotor breaks that rust bond between the pad and rotor. And until you get out on the road and cycle the brakes a few times you WILL hear a grinding noise which varies from climate to climate. When you hit the road drag the brakes lightly for a couple hundred feet and the rotors will clean themselves off and you'll be good to go. IF, AFTER YOU DO THE CLEANING PROCEDURE YOU STILL HEAR A PRONOUNCED GRINDING (not gentle scraping, there is a difference) DON"T DRIVE THE DAMN CAR UNTIL YOU CUT THE ROTOR IN HALF!!!!! Take it somewhere to have the brakes checked. When your dealer tells you it's your fault the brakes are shot it probably, at least partially, is your fault for not doing something about it sooner instead of contacting your attorney. Its call "mitigating factors". Look it up. My 09 Sedan sat for a few days (I'm retired with no place to go, nothing to do and nobody to see) under the carport in beautiful sunny Florida and this morning when I went out my brakes sounded like a .22 going off and they screamed till I got out on the highway. But I know there's nothing wrong with the brakes because I washed the car yesterday and pulled the wheels to clean them too (normal procedure) and there was absolutely nothing wrong with them. I guess what I'm saying is don't threaten to blow the dealership up because you waited too long to check out a suspected problem. Check it yourself. It's really not all that hard. If you can't or just don't want to take it to the dealer or the repair facility of your choice. Don't put cotton in your ears and hope the noise goes away

OK! Class is out.

Merry Christmas!





ow you use them. In the cool of the nig

 

I don't think it is possible to say "you waited too long" when people are having grinding problems with 5000 miles on the car. Also, when one break pad on each of the rear rotors is noticeably more worn than any other pad, this also screams factory defect.

 

As soon as you heard the suspected problem and didn't investigate the cause you waited too long. And even krispy discovered his fingertips were'nt calibrated to diagnose worn disc brake pads. And did you read my whole post? I didn't say people weren't having a problem. I just tried to offer a possible explanation for some of the brake "grinding noise" in order to weed out real problems from imagined problems. Why is everybody so totally against simple fixes. Everything is NOT a big deal.

 

The point is, is that there is a mentality on this site to either, write up a thread and get everyones opinion before you do something, or that taking it to the dealer is a waste, both of these thought processes waste time, waste parts, casue safety hazards and most importantly increases the amount of time before GM finds out about the problem and comes up with a solution. GM relies on dealer techs to provide feedback on problems occuring in the field and their solution, or if the solution isnt possible on the tech level. If you never bring your car in to get looked at, GM never finds out theres an issue, and you guessed it....never solves the problem.

Contrary to popular belief dozens of people screaming defect on CSS doesnt get GMs attention.

 

*615 odo*

*knock Knock* on wood...

No problems with brakes....that can't be said for my shifter though...

 

Dropped mine off at the dealer today for this problem, just turned 6k and was rotating the tires so I decided to check since lots of others have had this problem. Sure enough there it was. I do mostly highway driving also. I told the service writer about the previously mentioned casting material as the probable culprit. We will see what they find.