What would you offer?
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What would you offer?
I've been looking at some leftover '08 SS coupes at dealerships across the country. Some dealerships have anywhere from 6 to 15 in stock, all around 100 miles, with prices ranging from $16000's at one dealership to around $18000 at others. From what I've been told by the various salespeople is that they "got a great deal" on them in some GM "special factory purchase" last summer.
Given that they are '08's and that auto sales are pretty bad in this economy, what would you have as your starting offer on one of these?
Given that they are '08's and that auto sales are pretty bad in this economy, what would you have as your starting offer on one of these?
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Im just sayin, if you were in my shoes, what would you start out at? Im not really in any rush, but want to take advantage of the fact that they are 08's (when 2010 models will be rolling out in just few months) and we're in a terrible economy.
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go to a local dealer and check the price. offer like 2 grand less, and because GM is in the ******* they'll try to work with you to get that car off the lot. probably for about 750 more than what you offered. you can even try lower than 2 lower, but they may just say bye
#6
My advice...
If they're down to $16~18K with very low mileage (i.e. less than 200), I'd check to make sure they hadn't been titled first and foremost. 2nd, they may be what dealerships consider 'demo' vehicles. So...basically, find out why the mileage is up there. If they're neither...just new cars that have been on a few test drives....then they probably won't budge more than $500~1,000 on the price. If they are, you might be able to shave $~1,000 or more off of what they're asking. Either way, I'd consider you lucky to get $1k off of 'em though.
Don't let 'em try to talk to you in terms of monthly payments (i.e. "What do you want your monthly payment to be?"). Don't think the first time he comes back from talking to the sales manager that he's coming back with the best price they can accomodate. Don't hesitate to leave if they seem unwilling to budge. AND make sure they give you 'out-the-door' numbers. I absolutely hate it when they start tacking on doc fees, registration fees, or I even once got the "oops I forgot to calc in taxes" excuse. Total BS if you ask me.
If they're down to $16~18K with very low mileage (i.e. less than 200), I'd check to make sure they hadn't been titled first and foremost. 2nd, they may be what dealerships consider 'demo' vehicles. So...basically, find out why the mileage is up there. If they're neither...just new cars that have been on a few test drives....then they probably won't budge more than $500~1,000 on the price. If they are, you might be able to shave $~1,000 or more off of what they're asking. Either way, I'd consider you lucky to get $1k off of 'em though.
Don't let 'em try to talk to you in terms of monthly payments (i.e. "What do you want your monthly payment to be?"). Don't think the first time he comes back from talking to the sales manager that he's coming back with the best price they can accomodate. Don't hesitate to leave if they seem unwilling to budge. AND make sure they give you 'out-the-door' numbers. I absolutely hate it when they start tacking on doc fees, registration fees, or I even once got the "oops I forgot to calc in taxes" excuse. Total BS if you ask me.
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I paid $24k for mine. I would be pleased to get one for $19k! I can't believe they are that cheap..... I would consider yourself lucky and jump on the deal.
I keep seeing kids (around age 16) driving these cars around. I'm 24 and would like to feel like my car isn't something some punk kid could buy with his minimum wage job.... owell...
Good luck with your purchase!
I keep seeing kids (around age 16) driving these cars around. I'm 24 and would like to feel like my car isn't something some punk kid could buy with his minimum wage job.... owell...
Good luck with your purchase!
#8
ok here is the deal , there is not a lot of markup in these at the most is $2000 on a fully loaded so if there is a 2500 rebate then you find a base cobalt then your in the teen's!! in some cases there are dealerships that have coupons to put more discounts on what ever they want,they can use up to 2 = $1000
yeah and its there fault that you think that dealers should pay for your taxes and registration ......
My advice...
If they're down to $16~18K with very low mileage (i.e. less than 200), I'd check to make sure they hadn't been titled first and foremost. 2nd, they may be what dealerships consider 'demo' vehicles. So...basically, find out why the mileage is up there. If they're neither...just new cars that have been on a few test drives....then they probably won't budge more than $500~1,000 on the price. If they are, you might be able to shave $~1,000 or more off of what they're asking. Either way, I'd consider you lucky to get $1k off of 'em though.
Don't let 'em try to talk to you in terms of monthly payments (i.e. "What do you want your monthly payment to be?"). Don't think the first time he comes back from talking to the sales manager that he's coming back with the best price they can accomodate. Don't hesitate to leave if they seem unwilling to budge. AND make sure they give you 'out-the-door' numbers. I absolutely hate it when they start tacking on doc fees, registration fees, or I even once got the "oops I forgot to calc in taxes" excuse. Total BS if you ask me.
If they're down to $16~18K with very low mileage (i.e. less than 200), I'd check to make sure they hadn't been titled first and foremost. 2nd, they may be what dealerships consider 'demo' vehicles. So...basically, find out why the mileage is up there. If they're neither...just new cars that have been on a few test drives....then they probably won't budge more than $500~1,000 on the price. If they are, you might be able to shave $~1,000 or more off of what they're asking. Either way, I'd consider you lucky to get $1k off of 'em though.
Don't let 'em try to talk to you in terms of monthly payments (i.e. "What do you want your monthly payment to be?"). Don't think the first time he comes back from talking to the sales manager that he's coming back with the best price they can accomodate. Don't hesitate to leave if they seem unwilling to budge. AND make sure they give you 'out-the-door' numbers. I absolutely hate it when they start tacking on doc fees, registration fees, or I even once got the "oops I forgot to calc in taxes" excuse. Total BS if you ask me.
Last edited by SuperCelica00; 02-25-2009 at 05:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#10
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Tell them you will give them $15,000. Low ball them. It doesn't hurt. All then can do is say no, but there is that chance that they might say yes. With the way the auto industry is right now, the consumer has the dealership by the *****. Don't be scared to start really low. Be stern and say that is all you want to pay. When you start to walk out the door (because they probably will say no) they will probably say well let me see what I can do. Or they will let you walk out and call you a day or two later. If they don't then pay a little more. At least you can say that you tried. I worked at a dealership and I saw this happen all the time. There is to many chevy dealerships out there not to low ball. It's not an exotic dealership. Chevys are everywhere.
#12
Every dealer I called under $18k wouldn't budge even a dollar and all the trade offers were about $1000 less than book trade-in value.
I bought one nonetheless since it was still $6000 less than the lowest price I could get on a "new" one. Was able to get 3.99% from a national credit union.
I brought along a friend that ran a body shop and told him about the "wind damage" scenario. Given that information, he was able to find a couple spots where Paintless Dent Removal had been done. He told me it was probably from hail. You can barely, barely tell. I would have never noticed and I'm pretty picky.
Some telltale sings of PDR: look for loose trim. These cars don't have hood pads, but check for loose-fitting carpet in the trunk and loose trim pieces & headliner in the car itself.
Other than that, my car's paint was excellent except for, like someone else mentioned, a dealership employee going nuts with a buffer and no clay bar. That and one paint chip on the hood probably from a test drive.
I bought one nonetheless since it was still $6000 less than the lowest price I could get on a "new" one. Was able to get 3.99% from a national credit union.
I brought along a friend that ran a body shop and told him about the "wind damage" scenario. Given that information, he was able to find a couple spots where Paintless Dent Removal had been done. He told me it was probably from hail. You can barely, barely tell. I would have never noticed and I'm pretty picky.
Some telltale sings of PDR: look for loose trim. These cars don't have hood pads, but check for loose-fitting carpet in the trunk and loose trim pieces & headliner in the car itself.
Other than that, my car's paint was excellent except for, like someone else mentioned, a dealership employee going nuts with a buffer and no clay bar. That and one paint chip on the hood probably from a test drive.
#13
Tell them you will give them $15,000. Low ball them. It doesn't hurt. All then can do is say no, but there is that chance that they might say yes. With the way the auto industry is right now, the consumer has the dealership by the *****. Don't be scared to start really low. Be stern and say that is all you want to pay. When you start to walk out the door (because they probably will say no) they will probably say well let me see what I can do. Or they will let you walk out and call you a day or two later. If they don't then pay a little more. At least you can say that you tried. I worked at a dealership and I saw this happen all the time. There is to many chevy dealerships out there not to low ball. It's not an exotic dealership. Chevys are everywhere.
#16
well if your just trying to waist your time and there time and get pissed and **** them off, do what he tells you!!
My advice is to ask to see an invoice ,it will looks like a build sheet with all the options and pricing for all those options look at where it show
msrp cost
suplier cost
gms cost
and offer gms cost minus rebates and there you have the lowest price you can get anywhere also dont expect for them to pay for your tt&l cuz its not going to happen!!
at that there they will not lose money but they will brake pretty darn close after gas,detail,inspection and all that
My advice is to ask to see an invoice ,it will looks like a build sheet with all the options and pricing for all those options look at where it show
msrp cost
suplier cost
gms cost
and offer gms cost minus rebates and there you have the lowest price you can get anywhere also dont expect for them to pay for your tt&l cuz its not going to happen!!
at that there they will not lose money but they will brake pretty darn close after gas,detail,inspection and all that
Last edited by SuperCelica00; 02-25-2009 at 07:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#18
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I seen 2 that were offered in WI for 20k on the lot, found them searching for my son's soon to be car! edit: I bet I could get them down to atleast 19K....my 1st offer would be 18,500.
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Guys, I hate to be rude, but these dealerships are already asking $16500... so saying what you paid for your car several months or a year ago doesnt seem all that relevant.. correct me if im wrong here.
Originally I was just asking what you would offer on one of these cars if you were me right now..
Originally I was just asking what you would offer on one of these cars if you were me right now..
Last edited by AWatkins13; 02-25-2009 at 08:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#20
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Guys, I hate to be rude, but these dealerships are already asking $16500... so saying what you paid for your car several months or a year ago doesnt seem all that relevant.. correct me if im wrong here.
Originally I was just asking what you would offer on one of these cars if you were me right now..
Originally I was just asking what you would offer on one of these cars if you were me right now..
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#22
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Well if you can get for that & I found them still listing for 20k then you are getting a hell of a deal. sounds relevant to me & I did alot of searching but whatever!
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All Im asking here is what people would offer on an '08 SS coupe,with 100 miles or less on it, that the dealership is already asking $16500?
#24
unless you want to look like a ******* then offer less then $16,200.
just to see what they tell you !
just to add to the story , a friend of mine went to a harly davison store and asked the salesman before buying a bike ''so how much will you come down on the price !'' and the salesman replied ''ha ask that again and ill add 2k to the price'' IRRELEVENT!!
just to see what they tell you !
just to add to the story , a friend of mine went to a harly davison store and asked the salesman before buying a bike ''so how much will you come down on the price !'' and the salesman replied ''ha ask that again and ill add 2k to the price'' IRRELEVENT!!
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unless you want to look like a ******* then offer less then $16,200.
just to see what they tell you !
just to add to the story , a friend of mine went to a harly davison store and asked the salesman before buying a bike ''so how much will you come down on the price !'' and the salesman replied ''ha ask that again and ill add 2k to the price'' IRRELEVENT!!
just to see what they tell you !
just to add to the story , a friend of mine went to a harly davison store and asked the salesman before buying a bike ''so how much will you come down on the price !'' and the salesman replied ''ha ask that again and ill add 2k to the price'' IRRELEVENT!!
2. These vehicles have been sitting on the lot for 9 months and they have 7 and 15 '08 SS's respectively. I'm fairly certain these dealerships desperately need to move these vehicles (thus their incredibly low asking price). This is a total buyers market.
and as far as your harley story, you're right, that story was "IRRELEVENT." Its comparing apples and oranges.