???????????
I always heard to stick with a heavier stronger flywheel for FI but nothing as far as hurting a trans from it!
And GM build quality is the pits! My car had so many loose screws and wire harnesses not on their mounts...
And GM build quality is the pits! My car had so many loose screws and wire harnesses not on their mounts...
How long have you had this flywheel and clutch installed? And who exactly installed it? I dont believe the flywheel would cause this problem, but improper installation could have resulted in failure.
i have had it installed for a little over 2 months. i did the install myself with my friend. its probubly the 30 or 40 ive done in the past 2 years. i know i put it in right and torqued it to the right specs. i just drive my car to damn hard. 1 of these days i might learn my lesson
Sorry to hear that. GM build quality is fine. I had an Acura RSX that had loose screws and wiring issues. Those things happen. As far as the trans goes, I don't understand what would have caused it to fail. Maybe it just failed because you happened to get a weak 3rd gear. I'm sure it happens from time to time. Anyway, good luck!
well ive decided to pull the motor AGAIN and just buy a new 3rd gear and just rebuild it myself with my buddy Brian. it just has to wait till we finish his build in a week or so. ughhh i really hate this ****
That mod list is nothing... that is basic bolt ons.. and a better clutch.. how is that substantial? Now if he's driving the car hard and wrong then that could be the issue, but just driving the car hard with bolt ons.. welll that is pretty shitty of GM.
well its not just bolt ons i do have the trifecta tune. now i know by some peoples standards thats not the greatest tune but it added a **** ton of power. i dont think the trans would ever give under stock or close to stock power. i know i drove the **** out of the car. im not trying to blame gm for poor trans parts. i was just letting people know what happend and trying to get any information. once again thanks everyone for your support ill let you know how thingsa go AGAIN. im getting tired of pulling this motor out damnit
UMMMM.... He has a tune,downpipe,and intake,no "substantial"gains there.He seems to have the same basic boltons most other T/C cars have I'd say all driver if you ask me.
driver error/abuse..... I dunno just throwing it out there,.
I know of 2 500+whp cobalts running stock trans that are holding up just fine. (mine being one and I drive the **** out of it)
not meaning to be a dick here, just want to stop all the GM can't build **** crap that;'s is going to start spewing from people shortly
I know of 2 500+whp cobalts running stock trans that are holding up just fine. (mine being one and I drive the **** out of it)
not meaning to be a dick here, just want to stop all the GM can't build **** crap that;'s is going to start spewing from people shortly
They make stronger than stock, but lighter than stock flywheels.
Last edited by steddy2112; Jul 12, 2009 at 06:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
sorry i havent been able to be online the past couple days. thanks for eveyones support. as for driver failor this could be the case but i never had a problem with my 500 whp c6 vette i had before this car. im not saying gm doesnt make good **** im a die hard chevy guy. i flatshifted 3rd like i have since day one and it went boom. thats how it happend. yes i drive my car as hard as i possibly can everytime i start it up thats how i am with anycar i drive. and yes im sure its the trans well 3rd gear only but yeah
Its fun and all but its REALLY hard on your syncros and shift fork. Good luck on the rebuild trannys are easy just really check the 3-4 shift fork to see if its bent even a little bit so it doesn't come back to get you.
The Cobalt's Sweden transmission, made by Getrag in Sweden, was originally rated by GM for 260HP before the Upgrade was announced. Since the announcement the GM rating was mysteriously and officially upped to 290HP. Probably a whole lot more. I have read 350 RELIABLE HP, at the crank, is WELL within the transmissions capabilities.
The flywheel is a spinning mass. When manufactured it undergoes tests to prove it's balanced. Unless you bought a No Name flywheel from Zeek in his two car garage I would assume the flywheel was banced by the manufacturer. If you suspect it is the source of your problem take it to a REPUTABLE transmission shop to check it out. The only reason racers use a light flywheel, besides the obvious increase in strength and materials, is acceleration. Think of a HEAVY disc on a center shaft. Put the shaft flat on a table and with the palm of your hand try to spin it. Takes some effort, right? Now do the same thing WITHOUT the weight. You might say reducing the weight of the rotating mass. When shifting a transmission through the gears everything inside slow down slightly requiring extra torque to get them up to speed again. Not unlike the the heavy disc, but the flywheel is also included in the weight of all these rotating gears. Now reduce the weight of the flywheel. you get the same result as the weight on the shaft on mom's kitchen table.
As far a "flat shifted". I think, or at least I hope, he's referring to "no lift shifting" which is fun and beneficial in a race situation but NOT EVERY time you shift. If you ARE no lift shifting I hope you're doing it FAST enough. Like under .2 seconds.
The flywheel is a spinning mass. When manufactured it undergoes tests to prove it's balanced. Unless you bought a No Name flywheel from Zeek in his two car garage I would assume the flywheel was banced by the manufacturer. If you suspect it is the source of your problem take it to a REPUTABLE transmission shop to check it out. The only reason racers use a light flywheel, besides the obvious increase in strength and materials, is acceleration. Think of a HEAVY disc on a center shaft. Put the shaft flat on a table and with the palm of your hand try to spin it. Takes some effort, right? Now do the same thing WITHOUT the weight. You might say reducing the weight of the rotating mass. When shifting a transmission through the gears everything inside slow down slightly requiring extra torque to get them up to speed again. Not unlike the the heavy disc, but the flywheel is also included in the weight of all these rotating gears. Now reduce the weight of the flywheel. you get the same result as the weight on the shaft on mom's kitchen table.
As far a "flat shifted". I think, or at least I hope, he's referring to "no lift shifting" which is fun and beneficial in a race situation but NOT EVERY time you shift. If you ARE no lift shifting I hope you're doing it FAST enough. Like under .2 seconds.


