Another broken 3rd gear
Another broken 3rd gear
08ss, intake, alky injection, DP, E47, and self tuned. Even with a mild boost ramp to tame the stock turbo a bit bc this is what i was worried about and STOCK CLUTCH slipping a bit, still blew 3rd gear during a pull, just a straight up 3rd gear only pull............. 24 psi, 24.5* timing. Boost comes on to about 18psi from 3000-3500, then smoothly ramps to 22 from 3500-4000, then 24 from 4000+, tapering to 21-22 by redline. A bit after 4000rpms....boom, limped home 40 miles, with no 3rd and a terrible grinding noise in neutral.
I bought a used LSJ LSD tranny to replace it, and have a KY stage 3 thats been sitting in my living room for a year going in when i swap it.
I'm planning on a ZFR in a few months, is there any other way to play it safer than a slower boost ramp or just tune to not make as much torque, how can i do that? I already had a pretty slow ramp for the stock turbo, if i had any more slower ramp it felt very sluggish, just playing with proportional gain was at .080 which felt decent and safe, guess i was wrong.
Will the 4.05 FD really make that much of a difference? Can't afford 6 speed conversion, and no 4.45 gearsets around.
I bought a used LSJ LSD tranny to replace it, and have a KY stage 3 thats been sitting in my living room for a year going in when i swap it.
I'm planning on a ZFR in a few months, is there any other way to play it safer than a slower boost ramp or just tune to not make as much torque, how can i do that? I already had a pretty slow ramp for the stock turbo, if i had any more slower ramp it felt very sluggish, just playing with proportional gain was at .080 which felt decent and safe, guess i was wrong.
Will the 4.05 FD really make that much of a difference? Can't afford 6 speed conversion, and no 4.45 gearsets around.
The 4.05 should hold up just as long as it isn't beat already. Boost ramping a zfr is a good idea but seriously the way it spools you can barely notice if it is ramped but if it isn't, it hits hard and you can definitely feel it. I have a 4.45 and a ky stage 3 clutch in my car and it slips it ocassionally down low in third and if I hammer it all on fourth.
and this is why i believe the LSJ's aren't blowing them up quite as often..... they don't make as much torque as the LNF at the same rpms. Wish i had the money to get the LSJ f35 gone over and rebuilt but I need the car up and running asap. Can't ride my R1 to work each day in Houston traffic lol. I didn't even plan on doing the KY stg3 anytime soon, but since its out, might as well. Thx wert.
I was really thinking about going the S20g from hahn to keep the spool a little less harsh too.
I was really thinking about going the S20g from hahn to keep the spool a little less harsh too.
The 4.05 should hold up just as long as it isn't beat already. Boost ramping a zfr is a good idea but seriously the way it spools you can barely notice if it is ramped but if it isn't, it hits hard and you can definitely feel it. I have a 4.45 and a ky stage 3 clutch in my car and it slips it ocassionally down low in third and if I hammer it all on fourth.
and this is why i believe the LSJ's aren't blowing them up quite as often..... they don't make as much torque as the LNF at the same rpms. Wish i had the money to get the LSJ f35 gone over and rebuilt but I need the car up and running asap. Can't ride my R1 to work each day in Houston traffic lol. I didn't even plan on doing the KY stg3 anytime soon, but since its out, might as well. Thx wert.
I was really thinking about going the S20g from hahn to keep the spool a little less harsh too.
I was really thinking about going the S20g from hahn to keep the spool a little less harsh too.
the 24.5 timing was ramped in slowly with 24.5 at 4000rpms up to redline, Zero knock, plus im running alky/water injection too which starts spraying over 10 psi boost progressively. Boost was at 25 psi while the stock clutch was screaming for dear life. Pull started around 3500 rpms, boost hit harder bc of the slipping clutch..........
Heres my take on why: While my clutch was slipping, it allowed the boost to ramp up to what it would've been at 5000 rpms instead of 4000, as it started to grab, it was already at 25 psi instead of the 21-22 psi that was commanded by torque management. When it started to grip, torque was already most likely over 400ftlbs, then it blew up.
Heres my take on why: While my clutch was slipping, it allowed the boost to ramp up to what it would've been at 5000 rpms instead of 4000, as it started to grab, it was already at 25 psi instead of the 21-22 psi that was commanded by torque management. When it started to grip, torque was already most likely over 400ftlbs, then it blew up.
08ss, intake, alky injection, DP, E47, and self tuned. Even with a mild boost ramp to tame the stock turbo a bit bc this is what i was worried about and STOCK CLUTCH slipping a bit, still blew 3rd gear during a pull, just a straight up 3rd gear only pull............. 24 psi, 24.5* timing. Boost comes on to about 18psi from 3000-3500, then smoothly ramps to 22 from 3500-4000, then 24 from 4000+, tapering to 21-22 by redline. A bit after 4000rpms....boom, limped home 40 miles, with no 3rd and a terrible grinding noise in neutral.
I bought a used LSJ LSD tranny to replace it, and have a KY stage 3 thats been sitting in my living room for a year going in when i swap it.
I'm planning on a ZFR in a few months, is there any other way to play it safer than a slower boost ramp or just tune to not make as much torque, how can i do that? I already had a pretty slow ramp for the stock turbo, if i had any more slower ramp it felt very sluggish, just playing with proportional gain was at .080 which felt decent and safe, guess i was wrong.
Will the 4.05 FD really make that much of a difference? Can't afford 6 speed conversion, and no 4.45 gearsets around.
I bought a used LSJ LSD tranny to replace it, and have a KY stage 3 thats been sitting in my living room for a year going in when i swap it.
I'm planning on a ZFR in a few months, is there any other way to play it safer than a slower boost ramp or just tune to not make as much torque, how can i do that? I already had a pretty slow ramp for the stock turbo, if i had any more slower ramp it felt very sluggish, just playing with proportional gain was at .080 which felt decent and safe, guess i was wrong.
Will the 4.05 FD really make that much of a difference? Can't afford 6 speed conversion, and no 4.45 gearsets around.
My kystg3 is holding ZFR fine..but I'm still on my 91 tune
Joined: 02-04-12
Posts: 9,042
Likes: 7
From: Donegal, PA (Pittsburgh Area)
I already had bought one and its been in the car for a week now. That swap is a PITA to do by yourself in a garage on jackstands. Only 50 more miles on breakin on the KY clutch, the LSJ LSD tranny feels good, just still worried about 3rd. I'll be tuning conservatively on the ZFR until i can figure out where i can get a 4.45 set of gears from, plus I have my extra LNF LSD tranny with no case damage that im hoping can be rebuilt.
The 4.05 should hold up just as long as it isn't beat already. Boost ramping a zfr is a good idea but seriously the way it spools you can barely notice if it is ramped but if it isn't, it hits hard and you can definitely feel it. I have a 4.45 and a ky stage 3 clutch in my car and it slips it ocassionally down low in third and if I hammer it all on fourth.
Just got off the phone with ky. Apparently there are still some high spots on the clutch face so more break in miles are needed, common problem. Checked inside the inspection port, no leaks.
Can anyone tell me the proper way to tune for the different final gear ratio change for the speedometer? Searched and nothing came up on here or HP tuners.
Stock GR says 1.00 : 1
Do i just use the difference between the two gearsets?
3.82 / 4.05 = .9432 : 1 ?
Stock GR says 1.00 : 1
Do i just use the difference between the two gearsets?
3.82 / 4.05 = .9432 : 1 ?
Joined: 02-04-12
Posts: 9,042
Likes: 7
From: Donegal, PA (Pittsburgh Area)
the 24.5 timing was ramped in slowly with 24.5 at 4000rpms up to redline, Zero knock, plus im running alky/water injection too which starts spraying over 10 psi boost progressively. Boost was at 25 psi while the stock clutch was screaming for dear life. Pull started around 3500 rpms, boost hit harder bc of the slipping clutch..........
Heres my take on why: While my clutch was slipping, it allowed the boost to ramp up to what it would've been at 5000 rpms instead of 4000, as it started to grab, it was already at 25 psi instead of the 21-22 psi that was commanded by torque management. When it started to grip, torque was already most likely over 400ftlbs, then it blew up.
Heres my take on why: While my clutch was slipping, it allowed the boost to ramp up to what it would've been at 5000 rpms instead of 4000, as it started to grab, it was already at 25 psi instead of the 21-22 psi that was commanded by torque management. When it started to grip, torque was already most likely over 400ftlbs, then it blew up.
Let's cram 25 psi (I understand that wasn't the plan) of dense air (water injection), along with around 18% more fuel, and then ignite it 24.5* btdc all around peak torque. Oh hi cylinder pressure please don't hurt my third gear feels bro.
No **** Sherlock, ditch the water injection or run a VERY small nozzle, create a LINEAR timing map (hint: less timing under 5k) and get three bar sensors to tame that boost spike if you don't want anymore problems.
If that was too harsh my apologies but c'mon man ***** basic.
It baffles me that you were actively trying to avoid blowing third gear with that setup.
Let's cram 25 psi (I understand that wasn't the plan) of dense air (water injection), along with around 18% more fuel, and then ignite it 24.5* btdc all around peak torque. Oh hi cylinder pressure please don't hurt my third gear feels bro.
No **** Sherlock, ditch the water injection or run a VERY small nozzle, create a LINEAR timing map (hint: less timing under 5k) and get three bar sensors to tame that boost spike if you don't want anymore problems.
If that was too harsh my apologies but c'mon man ***** basic.
Let's cram 25 psi (I understand that wasn't the plan) of dense air (water injection), along with around 18% more fuel, and then ignite it 24.5* btdc all around peak torque. Oh hi cylinder pressure please don't hurt my third gear feels bro.
No **** Sherlock, ditch the water injection or run a VERY small nozzle, create a LINEAR timing map (hint: less timing under 5k) and get three bar sensors to tame that boost spike if you don't want anymore problems.
If that was too harsh my apologies but c'mon man ***** basic.
im with wert on this, the 4.05 should be good. but i would still be on the search for a 4.45 instead. the shorter the gear the better if you dont mind the high rpms on the highway cuz at 71mph your already spinning at 3k. but a good tune and you can still get 32mpg, ask me how i know lol. also, if you do the zfr, i would look into southbend for a new clutch, i have their stage 4 and love it. its a 8 puck design, holds the torque no problem, and has a very smooth engagement compared to other aftermarket ones, i had a stage 4 CM with a 6 puck before. the southbend is a million times better, also has a better spring design with thicker tabs that wont break off and pop out a spring on you lol. that would be no beuno.
im with wert on this, the 4.05 should be good. but i would still be on the search for a 4.45 instead. the shorter the gear the better if you dont mind the high rpms on the highway cuz at 71mph your already spinning at 3k. but a good tune and you can still get 32mpg, ask me how i know lol. also, if you do the zfr, i would look into southbend for a new clutch, i have their stage 4 and love it. its a 8 puck design, holds the torque no problem, and has a very smooth engagement compared to other aftermarket ones, i had a stage 4 CM with a 6 puck before. the southbend is a million times better, also has a better spring design with thicker tabs that wont break off and pop out a spring on you lol. that would be no beuno.
I have a ky stage 3 already in the car for 800 miles now, no chatter, and actually not that bad on engagement. Its daily drivable, I drive it in Houston traffic daily lol. Its holding the power fine, i adjusted the tune to spool like a large turbo and backed the timing down to 22* and around 22psi so its not as "peaky" as it was before.
ZFR is going on in two weeks, I'm excited to see what kind of difference is between the two power bands.




