Another LNF missing an injector seal.
#27
Email tom@crateenginedepot.com
Each seal kit has a spring clip, teflon seal & o-ring iirc. You need 4 kits whenever you disturb the fuel rail. New fuel rail feedpipe is recommended also, but I reused mine. I have a new feed pipe for $25 someplace I think.
Also a used fuelrail service tested to 2800 psi with pressure sensor & harness and one used injector if anyone needs it.
Each seal kit has a spring clip, teflon seal & o-ring iirc. You need 4 kits whenever you disturb the fuel rail. New fuel rail feedpipe is recommended also, but I reused mine. I have a new feed pipe for $25 someplace I think.
Also a used fuelrail service tested to 2800 psi with pressure sensor & harness and one used injector if anyone needs it.
#29
Senior Member
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Email tom@crateenginedepot.com
Each seal kit has a spring clip, teflon seal & o-ring iirc. You need 4 kits whenever you disturb the fuel rail. New fuel rail feedpipe is recommended also, but I reused mine. I have a new feed pipe for $25 someplace I think.
Also a used fuelrail service tested to 2800 psi with pressure sensor & harness and one used injector if anyone needs it.
Each seal kit has a spring clip, teflon seal & o-ring iirc. You need 4 kits whenever you disturb the fuel rail. New fuel rail feedpipe is recommended also, but I reused mine. I have a new feed pipe for $25 someplace I think.
Also a used fuelrail service tested to 2800 psi with pressure sensor & harness and one used injector if anyone needs it.
#32
Senior Member
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LOL Yeah 2yrs is a long time. Im starting to think I have another issue, I keep wanting to say that its a seal cause of the clacking noise. It seems to be the one true common noise on all the LNFs that have reported it, BUT, the only thing I dont hear is the popcorn sound at WOT. My HPFP does seem to have gotten a higher pitch and whine to it now though. Im wondering if its the supertechs. When I first installed them there was no noise. It started about three months later. Ive checked them and I see no issues. Maybe they are just causing the valve to shut really hard LOL
Anyways, I will replace them just cause the injectors have been out twice now. Ill report back once its done to let you all know if it solved my issue or not.
Anyways, I will replace them just cause the injectors have been out twice now. Ill report back once its done to let you all know if it solved my issue or not.
#38
I didn't notice anyone post the part number for the seal kit with the black seals, this is it...
12633374. List price is $46 but you should be able to find it for $25-$30 online. It comes with all the seals and clips for 4 injectors.
12633374. List price is $46 but you should be able to find it for $25-$30 online. It comes with all the seals and clips for 4 injectors.
#40
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How many people that lost the seals are also seafoam users??
Another weirdness, I got a MAF code this morning so I pulled it once I got to work. I have a spare in the trunk.. Covered in water WTF!
Another weirdness, I got a MAF code this morning so I pulled it once I got to work. I have a spare in the trunk.. Covered in water WTF!
#42
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What about the E85 users? I would think that it(E85) would deteriorate the seals faster then seafoam.
#44
Oh, btw, I also have the Werks Phenolic Spacers on the intake and throttle body...
The Home of WERKSracing products!
Lemme tell you guys, these things are amazing! Go for a nice, hard drive in your car, stop and open the hood. Try to put your hand on the intake manifold, chances are it will be so how you can barely touch it. I can drive the crap out of my car on a 90* day, stop and open the hood and be able to lay my hand on the intake! It will feel warm, but not hot. If I reach down and feel the throttle body, it almost feels cold to the touch! Those spacers WORK! (No, I never did any before or after actual temp readings or testing.)
The Home of WERKSracing products!
Lemme tell you guys, these things are amazing! Go for a nice, hard drive in your car, stop and open the hood. Try to put your hand on the intake manifold, chances are it will be so how you can barely touch it. I can drive the crap out of my car on a 90* day, stop and open the hood and be able to lay my hand on the intake! It will feel warm, but not hot. If I reach down and feel the throttle body, it almost feels cold to the touch! Those spacers WORK! (No, I never did any before or after actual temp readings or testing.)
On the seafoam question, I don't use it. My car has meth inj and a head that's only like a year old so carbon isn't an issue. Especially since I do things like today, I just pissed off a guy with a brand new 392 Challenger! Sucks to be walked on by a 4 banger Saturn.
So not sure if that's a factor, I'd go for E85 being a bigger factor.
#45
Platinum Member
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Are you running the same intake i have? It sucks in damp cold or rainy days and runs like crap for 5min or so depending on weather. I never had a problem till it started getting cold and damp.. Maybe you can make me a pipe to convert to SRI Also it might be the MAF placement on the pipe and if it gets condensation the easiest path for it to run is down to the MAF? Just my theory
#46
Good point Tom, but anyone that's taking their intake off to do these seals should just put the Werks spacers on instead of gaskets! This is a quote from one of my posts on another forum...
(QUOTE FAILED)
On the seafoam question, I don't use it. My car has meth inj and a head that's only like a year old so carbon isn't an issue. Especially since I do things like today, I just pissed off a guy with a brand new 392 Challenger! Sucks to be walked on by a 4 banger Saturn.
So not sure if that's a factor, I'd go for E85 being a bigger factor.
(QUOTE FAILED)
On the seafoam question, I don't use it. My car has meth inj and a head that's only like a year old so carbon isn't an issue. Especially since I do things like today, I just pissed off a guy with a brand new 392 Challenger! Sucks to be walked on by a 4 banger Saturn.
So not sure if that's a factor, I'd go for E85 being a bigger factor.
#47
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Well, this was NOT my issue. It had the sounds and some symptoms but all my seals were intact. They didnt look nice and one was eaten away a bit but none were gone. I went ahead and did the full service on them anyway since they were off and replaced them with the new black ones.
I have to say, the tool is necessary as IamBroke said. Without it, you cant squeeze/reshape the seal back into the groove, it just sits there loose and spins. I imagine if you install it in the head that way, it would bunch up or not create a proper seal probably leading to an early failure. The reason for it spinning on the groove is that for you to put the seal on in the first place, it stretches to the size of the outer diameter of the inlector and it needs to be, essentially, the size of the inner diameter and flush in the groove.
Oh well, I guess my supertechs are just noisy and I have to live with the clackity clack they make. It was good getting in there and performing the service and I had a chance to take a look at the valves. Pretty clean except for the uppermost part of the stem. The valve itself and the stem leading to it were pretty clean. I guess seafoam is doing its job. i went ahead and took a brush and removed the gummy deposits on the top of the stem on each valve. It wasnt much and only caused a slight stumble when I first started her up
I have to say, the tool is necessary as IamBroke said. Without it, you cant squeeze/reshape the seal back into the groove, it just sits there loose and spins. I imagine if you install it in the head that way, it would bunch up or not create a proper seal probably leading to an early failure. The reason for it spinning on the groove is that for you to put the seal on in the first place, it stretches to the size of the outer diameter of the inlector and it needs to be, essentially, the size of the inner diameter and flush in the groove.
Oh well, I guess my supertechs are just noisy and I have to live with the clackity clack they make. It was good getting in there and performing the service and I had a chance to take a look at the valves. Pretty clean except for the uppermost part of the stem. The valve itself and the stem leading to it were pretty clean. I guess seafoam is doing its job. i went ahead and took a brush and removed the gummy deposits on the top of the stem on each valve. It wasnt much and only caused a slight stumble when I first started her up
#48
Senior Member
Mine will having a chirping sort of noise if the car hasn't cycles the coolant a few times fully warm if I see more than 10lbs of boost. My car has never had more than e10 in it and I have ran a 22psi tune before but now its on a stock tune. The car seems to be slow to make fuel trim adjustments and it acts like there's a leak somewhere. I also have a slight misfire during cold start but I don't think its ever logged one... I've yet to throw any codes for anything either... here's a video of mine with the downpipe still on the car from march when it was making a funny noise to me... its almost like one cylinder is lean or something... idk. Bye I've never seafoamed either....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAij...e_gdata_player
btw the car went 9.4@80.2 14.2@102.2 on the limiter in 95* July heat with a haggard 2.46 60-ft nearly cutting off on the launch after that... so it seems to be okay on stock boost, the car still seems to run with 82-83mph cars on the street too...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAij...e_gdata_player
btw the car went 9.4@80.2 14.2@102.2 on the limiter in 95* July heat with a haggard 2.46 60-ft nearly cutting off on the launch after that... so it seems to be okay on stock boost, the car still seems to run with 82-83mph cars on the street too...
#49
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well im running e47 and seafoam every 15k and i built my motor last year pulled the injectors at the time didnt know you had to replace the seals if you pull them so im most likely missing one if not more lol. ordered the specialty tool 20 bucks on ebay
#50
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Nice! You got it cheaper than me! LOL
I believe I paid 30 bucks
BTW, when you use the small cone shaped one to slide the seal on, and then use the larger piece to size the seal, dont be afraid to push firmly until you feel the injector slide all the way into the tool. When I was doing it I was afraid I was pushing the seal further up the injector but in reality it just squeezed it into the groove. I kinda spun the tool back and forth while I pushed on the injector at the same time.
I believe I paid 30 bucks
BTW, when you use the small cone shaped one to slide the seal on, and then use the larger piece to size the seal, dont be afraid to push firmly until you feel the injector slide all the way into the tool. When I was doing it I was afraid I was pushing the seal further up the injector but in reality it just squeezed it into the groove. I kinda spun the tool back and forth while I pushed on the injector at the same time.