So I am doing my first pad and rotor change ever on a vehicle.

I have a shop, lift and all tools needed. Just doing this fronts.

I do have a few questions:

1. Do you guys recommend not unbolting the brake line and just supporting the caliper?
2. Do you take the clips and pins and old pads out before unbolted the caliper?
3. Are we suppose to compress the caliper on ABS cars to get the new pads on?
4. Do you put the brake lube on both sides of the shim? Like between shim and pad and pad and caliper?

Sorry for the stupid post. I have looked at all the how to's and other threads, just need some clarification. Any links or videos that help that I may have missed?

 

brembos you just punch the pins out swap pads put the pins back in basically.

 

I'm doing rotors as well. Need to know if I can do it without unbolting the brake line. I thought when you clamp the piston it will force fluid back into the ABS module. Am I right or wrong?

 

1. Do you guys recommend not unbolting the brake line and just supporting the caliper?

Just support the caliper. I zip tie it to the spring. Use strong zip ties. Do not bend the line severely, or risk it leaking, or separating.

2. Do you take the clips and pins and old pads out before unbolted the caliper?

Yes, it's easier if you do this while the caliper is bolted in place.

3. Are we suppose to compress the caliper on ABS cars to get the new pads on?

Yes. I use a tool from eBay made for VWs. Price has gone up since I got one:

Mercedes Benz BMW VW Audi Disc Brake Pads Caliper Piston Press Spreader Tool | eBay

This also looks feasible, and is cheaper:
On Sale Brake Tool Volvo Volkswagen VW Audi Also Some BMW Mercedes | eBay

4. Do you put the brake lube on both sides of the shim? Like between shim and pad and pad and caliper?

I skip it. Just makes a mess. Benefit minimal. Lube the pins where they go into the caliper. The little round metal piece just before the pointy tip.

 

Yes, if you compress the pistons in it will force fluid back through the ABS. Thats why when I do this, I undo the bleeder just a tad so the pressure is relieved there and not force fluid back in through the ABS. Also, yes, remove the pads before removing rotor, just cleaner and easier that way. I do not unbolt the line. I use a ziptie to hang/support the caliper moved slightly back and up out of the way. Remove the locking shims from each stud and then remove the rotor. Prep the new one and do everythng in reverse. I put some lube between the shim and pad and also cover the outside part of the shim and pad that contacts the pistons.

Hope that helps!

EDIT:
Wangspeed in with the quicker response!
Also, Im just overly cautious with the ABS. i dont think you can cause any real damage to it by compressing fluid back throguh the system. Doing it my way could introduce air into the system if not done right so.......yeah.

 

Just got my rotors today, am going to start the process tom. When the caliper is sitting in typical position do the pins do the pins need to be hammered from the outside in or from inside the fender well, out.

I'm sure once I look at it it will be obvious but just want to make sure I have all bases covered.

Thanks

 

to take the pins out punch from the outside towards teh car

 

FYI those pins get get ****** stuck i got two spare sets just gotta take the time and pound/drill out my passenger side ones but other than that pretty easy to do and the little clips you will have to brake off to get rotors off are just there for manufacturing purposes so dont worry bout them

 

speaking of pins getting stuck

tese were my pins after just 35000 kilometers, they were just starting to rust, luckily i pulled them out just to lube them and shoved them back in. so lube those babies up

 

When you lube them. Don't use brake lube for the sliders. Use anti-seize. It will last much longer and prevent the pins from getting stuck. I pull my pins twice a year to clean and re-lube them.

 

use high temp anti seize

 

I had to take a grinding wheel to my pins and cut them off. It was that bad. The hammer was just marking up the caliper.

 

i had to buy 2 new calipers because my pins were frozen solid. make sure u lube your pins with good anti seize every other oil change

 

I'm glad I never had this problem I used copper anti Seize and they come right out every time

 

buy new i would have just drilled those ******* out i mean the calipers were good right **** if you still got the old ones sell em to me i'll find away to upgrade my rears