Well first off my car has been running terribly for the past couple weeks. The car wouldn't make boost and was fluttering bad. CEL came on and stayed on. I scanned it and got a P2187 which is lean at idle bank 1 and P0236 which is a boost sensor. So after I got off work last night I took off the MAF sensor and cleaned it, the CEL went away and the car was running a lot better, but on my way to school this morning it was hesitant and seemed to have a hard time making boost. Sometimes when I would accelerate it wouldn't make any boost and would stay in vacuum and seem to not want to move... I am swapping the plugs today hopefully that helps something. What do you guys think the problem is?

 

I think the MAP sensor connections/wiring on your GMS1, have them soldered.

 

I was thinking that too after reading of some many problems with the sensors making it throw the p0236 code. What would soldering the wires do? and I don't know how to solder wires lol.

 

he could have a leak in his piping . mabey getting air in after the maf . at that point it would be unmetered and run lean .

 

Well along with changing the plugs today I'm switching the hahn worm clamps on my intake to some t bolt clamps so if I have a leak somewhere on my intake I won't after today.

 

My money is on lower TMAP sensor either needs to be rewired or is bad.

I had the P0236 when my TMAP was blowing out of the socket.

If you are only boosting 5psi then it's in limp mode and bypassing the lower map sensor.

Are you hearing any surging from the turbo?

 

Yeah. Over the past couple weeks it would do it a little and if I turned off my car and turn it back on it would stop. But recently it was doing it a lot but hasn't today since I have cleaned the MAF sensor.

 

Mine has done the same lately, threw a P0236 today, and only seems to do it when it rains. Powercycle it and the issue is fixed...my money is on the lower TMAP even though it was soldered, shrink wrapped and taped up hard. FML this is the second time I've thrown this code, first time was a gaping hole in my charge pipe (lower rad bolt) this time I'm sure it's that sensor .

The car is using almost 3x the amount of fuel to get going and accelerate even slowly (3/4 throttle) so there's either a leak, or the TMAP or MAP are malfunctioning all together leading to improper readings.

 

I got a CEL last week after flooring it to make it through a light. After I hit almost 25psi it started knocking and hesitating. CEL blinked and when I boosted up to above 20psi it did the same thing and CEL stayed on.

I dropped it off at the dealer and they told me they can't get it to boost to above 20psi without doing 100mph and the code was P0301 cylinder 1 misfire. (I told them to leave it in 2nd gear and it would boost to over 20psi while doing under 100mph)

What could cause this?

It runs fine until it starts getting over 20 pounds of boot.

 

Blinking CEL is a major misfire and that's a major issue that has nothing to do with the OPs problem.

I'd get the CEL scanned and start a new thread so we can help you.

 

I had my tuner flash it back to stock so if I need to take it to the dealer I can. There is a leak in on of my vacuum lines when I'm in throttle the BPV is going off and the the car pulls back and the boost gauge drops back down to 0. Is there any common places in the vacuum lines for a leak? And if there is a leak in my vacuum line at idle would I still be sitting at 20 vacuum?

 

Mine's in the shop today for the same, and it's very intermittent. Was garbage yesterday, all day, today on the way there (I go out of town about a 20 minute drive) it was pulling like I'd expect it to. Only difference today versus yesterday is it poured rain and the last time it did this recently it was also raining. I'll update this thread when I hear back, but I suspect it's going to take a while to determine where the boost is going since I don't hear the BPV but I swear I hear air escaping somewhere else in 1st/2nd.

 

Dealer just called, and it's what I figured it was in the first place (since it only happened in the rain). The TMAP pigtail is completely corroded, ruined and water is seeping in. It has to be re-ordered/replaced, but the dealer is having issues tracking down the part number of the pigtail itself. Off to the internet I go..and then figure out how to properly protect it against this bullshit again.

 

Alright thanks if I can't find a leak in one of my vacuum lines I'll take it in and see what's wrong with it. I might have the same problem as you, since it's been down pouring here for the past like 2-3 weeks lol.

 

Performance Autowerks sells the pigtails. Solder, heatshrink & tape them with a self fusing tape like Scotch 130C or Scotch 70 and wrap with Scotch 33+ or another PVC tape.

Sealed up for life then.

 

where are you at in MO?

I'm in Springfield, had pretty good luck with Reliable Chevy

 

Sounds eerily similar .

Cool, thanks. I'll go pick all this **** up while the part is shipped from the US (3-5 days) and wrap the hell out of mine now so it's tight until the part comes in. Since it seems fine as long as it doesn't get wet, I'd rather drive the TC than a rental, and make sure if it goes into limp mode I drive it to work and back (18km total) only. I'll request the dealer wrap it as thoroughly since the solder/heatshrink/tape wrap failed already. Looks like I need to build a bunker for it .

 

Last time my car acted like this, the dealership had to re-wire the IAT sensor because the wiring was shorting out. Car would boost fine at times, then it wouldn't boost over 5psi.

Previous time before that, my MAF sensor went out and they had to replace it.

Now my car is having the same boost problem. Sometimes it boost fine and other times it won't get past 5psi. My car is stock except for muffler delete.

 

Well my brother and I just jacked up the car and checked the TMAP sensor. One of the wires were extremely loose. We took off the old butt connector and re connected it nice and tight and the car seems to be running 100 times better. I think that could have been my problem since it would run decent sometimes and run shitty others.

 

Good news . Make sure it's sealed tight as hell so you don't end up with my problem. I drove it home on the highway until the sensor comes in. 0 boost slow as dog **** but more fuel efficient (and slower) than my 2.2 was at 75ish mph lol. Never seen 5.7L/100km (can't do that mpg in my head) before

 

You should solder those.

 

Well this time it wasn't my MAF sensor or IAT sensor. There was too much tension on wires near another sensor around my intake. I'll have to find my service ticket again to list the exact one. I'm getting tired of all these sensor/wiring problems. I guess I'm going to have to do some soldering like mentioned above.
Dealership also found one of my shifter linkage bolts underneath my boot had broken. Glad to have my car back and running like she should!