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Cardelino18 Motor Build

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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:15 AM
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Cardelino18 Motor Build

ok so i decided to do a thread on my motor build....i will be updating it as soon as i get more pictures. Here it goes...

ok so i started getting the symptoms of a fried piston or something a wile back, car was not running right and idle like ****... didnt pay attention to it until it got worst and worst so i decided to look into it, i called ItalianJoe (which he has been a VERY helpful person) and he came over my house and did a compression test; no compression on cylinder #4. after a couple of days of doing research and what not i brought the car to Joes' house so he can start working on it.... this is what he found:

He started taking the head out



This is cylinder #4 how it was....



and this is cylinder #1 how all of them should look like...



this is just a pic of my head that im debating weather or not to ported out...



after all of this he told me i HAD to change the sleeves on it, so after calling Darton we decided to send the block to Darton in VA so they put the sleeves in and they bore it out to stock bore... block has been sent and it should get there on friday..

now the fun part!

these are the stock pistons!



now the magical piston on cylinder #4! the ****** that did all the damage







but its ok because now these babes are going in!





this is the turbo i will be using with the Treadstone Performance turbo kit that we are working on



and this is the clutch that its already installed in the car... (spec stage 3)




Thanks to ItalianJoe for doing all the work and for being a very helpful guy!

Last edited by cardelino18; Apr 7, 2010 at 11:18 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:16 AM
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That damm piston lol that sucks man, but hey your building the whole motor so it will be much stronger
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:17 AM
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goodluck on the rebuilt !! expect a good improvement in performance over stock...with the piston swap
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by PANIK
goodluck on the rebuilt !! expect a good improvement in performance over stock...with the piston swap
The sleeves are a welcome touch. I'm glad to see someone stepping up and spending the money to do it right. This motor should be able to hold whatever he throws at it from here on out. I'm really looking forward to having the car back on the road and seeing just how much power it can make.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:24 AM
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Sooo... it'll bug me if I don't ask...

At first you were going to try selling it due to money, but now you're not only fixing it, but beefing it up quite a bit and spending a lot of money. What changed?
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:27 AM
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the fact that i was only going to get no more than 9gz for the car when its a ~$4000 fix and the car is worth over $16k...
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:29 AM
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yeah resale sucks on these cars
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by cardelino18
the fact that i was only going to get no more than 9gz for the car when its a ~$4000 fix and the car is worth over $16k...
Okay, cool. Just wondered what made you change your mind.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:33 AM
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are you doing valve springs/ported head or head studs?
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:34 AM
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Good luck to you and Joe.... I can assure you Joe will do it right...

Keep us posted on updates!
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:37 AM
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i am putting ARP head studs but im still debating on doing the head work... i know its worth it and all but this has just been a little to expensive for now...
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:40 AM
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it'll be worth the 4-500 bucks just to have it ported... you can leave the stock parts in it... just get the intake ports and exhaust port ported and polished...

It'll be worth it in the long run... when you can make more power with less boost!
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:40 AM
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at least do springs...300 bux that will go a long way!
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:51 AM
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yea i know but add everything up... springs $350 plus labor it might be like $500 in total or what not, plus 500 more to port the head thats an extra gran that i dont have
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:54 AM
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don't worry about the springs.... as long as you keep it under 7000k rpm you don't need them...

However just doing a intake and exhaust port will be very VERY beneficial
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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Look at my build thread in the forced induction section. The head plans I have are more then likely your best bet.I know moneys an issue but while its all apart you might aswell just go right ahead and do it. You'll save money in the long run. What turbos that???? The 6262 or smaller? If its anything capable of over 500hp you might wanna consider a stage 3+ rather then the stage 3. Just my thoughts.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:38 PM
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its a 5857 the one that ill be using on my car...
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:42 PM
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Cardelino. If you want the k1 rods pm me and I will get you hooked up.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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glad to see you doing the block correctly. can't wait to see it back out on the street
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:45 PM
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Nice Flanigan's cup!!!
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:50 PM
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i know i cant wait eather! by the time my block is back the manifold should be here and we should be working on the turbo kit... its going to be niiice!
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 05:13 PM
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How did you take of the timing chain Did you just take it off with out marking it? Because im helping a friend with his build and if you don't put the the timing chain on right the car is not going to run right. So im just asking what yall did to know how to put the timing chain back on right.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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there are colored links on the chain to match up with dots on the gears
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 05:32 PM
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^this. There is diamond marks on the cams and a dot on the crank. And I would at least do the zzp springs cause I have gone through two rollers with a 7000 rpm redline and both times put in new springs, so it wasn't a weak spring. Hate to see a motor go over 200 bucks.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by cmiller8006
^this. There is diamond marks on the cams and a dot on the crank. And I would at least do the zzp springs cause I have gone through two rollers with a 7000 rpm redline and both times put in new springs, so it wasn't a weak spring. Hate to see a motor go over 200 bucks.
What are the symptoms of a bad roller?
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