^^ There he is!!

I forgot to mention that...I did tho...I went with the Non-SAC (Self Adjusting Clutch) as well

 

I am sure this is somewhere but since we are on the subject what is the diff. between sac and non sac as far as performance?

 

perforamce, technicly, doesnt change between the two.

its how the pick up point and pedal pressure changes between the two.

the SAC pressure plate use's sprung, counter rotating weights to adjust pressure plate force, so its easy to ride in traffic, yet it should still grab 100% under power / load.

however, you can catch this pressure plate off guard in a higher HP car with a quick shift, also the non-sac units wont vary the pick up point like the SAC pieces do.

 

Its the plus (+) series you want, the only specs that i heard failed were the non plus series...I have heard great things about the Spec Stge 2 + and the stage 3 +

 

Bingo.. IMO 100% correct.

Some have had good luck with the non + series, but we have not heard any complaints on the 3+ by SPEC

 

i had 4 stage 3+ clutches each lasted about a month and a half and would break into three peices the rivets would come loose. i had it installed at my shop ( i work at a vw dealer) i had it installed at chevy and one of my friends with a shop installed it and the last time i installed it. the longest a clutch lasted for me was a month and a half.

 

You must have installed it wrong. I had a spec stage3+ clutch installed by dealer in my redline and it works fine.

 

Tilton FTW!!! Well only if they made one for our cars...

-Karo

 

I had a Spec 3+ w/ Spec Flywheel on my Cobalt. Not a single problem, as easy to drive as stock. Would buy from again.

 

non sac gives you a large left leg and a wimpy right leg

for those who use pictures to best understand this is an example of a SAC Clutch(compliments of Centerforce)


at low rpm the lighter spring pressure is easy to push in for like traffic and towning, but hit that puppy and the center weights lift the fingers applying more pressure as the rpm goes up. and its all due to centrifugal force.

its a great clutch but the hardcore racer shold really have a non SAC so you have maximum clamp from launch to high rpm.

 

as for clutch i would say spec.... as for flywheel thats a whole new ball game.... how was the driveability with flywheel.... that seems to change the motion of the ride.... i dont really want to go in depth with that

guess ima have to meet black and check out his set-up

maybe bring like 10grand with me just incase im feelin lucky lol

 

Can anyone post or point me to the specifications (dimensions, splines, etc.) of the LNF clutch? There is a local clutch builder that I was looking to have make me a custom one - very reputable. Also, what flywheels are available???

 

Fidanza says they're working on one.

 

can i get a link to buy these??

 

Stage 3+ Clutch

Flywheel

 

its not rocket science to install a clutch

 

well you dont exactly just slap it on, you need to make sure the pressure plate is flush with the flywheel when you install it. measure the distance from the plate to the flywheel mounted without the friction disc in place. adjust with shims until it is even in at the very least four spots, i go 8 or measure and adjust at every point there is a mounting bolt.

if u dont do that you can have application problems, most the time poeple slam them in and get lucky.

 

stage 3+ or stage 4 ?

 

i agree but if you work on cars for a living like (chevy and vw) and have installed other clutches(exedy) on the same type of car (me)but the spec clutch's break once a month and the exedy clutch's where fine i dont think its the install i just think its the clutch sure not every clutch spec makes is bad and sure not every exedy clutch is great but with my experience and how long i have been on this site i have seen way more problems with spec then any other clutch .

 

true true

 

Stage 3+ if it's still going to be a DD because that clutch is still streetable (full faced), Stage 4 will be too aggressive for the street (4 or 6 puck)

Check this out for numbers: http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy...SS/2008/Single

 

I've heard great experiences and horror stories with just about every clutch manufacturer out there. SPEC for example has a good reputation of some of their products but I've also seen a few of their clutches have "minor" problems such as grenading through the trans housing in certain applications.

Probably a bigger issue with a lot of the different clutch manufacturers isn't their products but install and operator error with people not breaking them in properly, not selecting the correct clutch for their application, or other errors (such as clutch release mechanism problems that was causing their initial problems that led to a bad clutch and weren't resolved when a new clutch went in). Another example is the Centerforce clutches which have a love-hate relationship in many circles. Centerforce has said in the past that most people that do have issues can be traced back to improper break-in, which is extremely important for an organic clutch lining.

On a couple of the drag days last summer/fall when I got 30+ passes in on one day the stock clutch was definitely getting warm and led to a softer pedal so I could definitely see it potentially slipping for those making significantly more engine torque and running sticky tires, but I think for me I'll stay stock until (if) power gets increased. It's all too easy to go overboard on clutches that have ceramic discs that have short service lives and on-off switch engagement and/or pressure plates with significantly higher clamping force than stock that end up eating up the thrust bearing for the crank. I've got a sprung hub, four-puck ceramic disc in my SRT-4 and it's definitely possible to daily drive the car but since I took the big turbo back off it isn't needed and kills some of the enjoyment of the car. I'd hate for the same thing to happen with my Cobalt.

 

stage3+ it is!!!

 

i will be getting stage 3+ also.. the clutch that is.... no flywheel for me

 

are you using stock flywheel?