Well I have had the car for one week now. 320 miles on the clock. Car has ran perfect until today.

I did a 0-80 pull on the on ramp. I didn't nothing else crazy and drove to my brother ATT store. I sat and talked to her for awhile probably 20 minutes. I got back in the car and noticed it wasn't pulling like it had been. Sounded good and was boosting but the power wasn't there.

Pulled out the Dash Hawk and guess what it had 8.0 (degrees i assume) of spark retarding.

The temperature is pretty hot out roughly 85 and I noticed the IAT 1s were at 110. I don't think the DashHawk can check the IAT2.

Is it possible this stock vehicle is getting heat soaked and pulling timing.

Sorry I'm new to the Forced Induction scene and need to know what's up.

 

my guess is that its some sort of "limp" mode due to your car not being out of the break in period...im probably wrong though

 

when you car is going through the break in period it will do that. IDK why but mine did it too. once you reach 1000-1500 miles it will be right as rain. IT just the ECU's way of protecting the engine from an improper break in period.(well so says GM techs) I could be wrong though. But mine did the same thing.

 

its days and situations like this above, why an upgraded IC is a must

wonder what the iat2's and knock retard(if any) would have been with an aftermarket IC instead of the puny stocker

 

What kind of fuel are you running in your car? If the dealer put 87 octane in the tank that would cause 8* KR. If not. Bring the car to the dealer. It has some kind of problem. Is the knock constant or just small bursts?

 

91 octane, i'll put some octane booster in it later and let it cool down. I think the car is just protecting itself. I may be getting a bigger intercooler next week if fitting goes well. I will keep you guys updated. i bet it's just getting too hot. If it continues it will be going to the dealer. The spark retard is only at hard throttle and isn't a constant number is builds to 8 as I try to go faster.

For now I'm gonna quit getting on it hard and see what happens.

Oh and I installed a K&N filter 3 days ago, but that's not the problem

 

so wait.....

Ur brother is a girl??????

 

LOL wow what a mis-type.

My brother is a dude.

 

haha.. Got a little confused there. Thought there was some info missing.

 

Not sure if this says much, but the charge pipping was very hot to the touch.

 

I dont think this will make u happy to hear, but isnt KR supposed to be below 1? I have an aeroforce and I never see anything past 1. My STKR ranges from .3-.7. I dont know how dash hawk works though....

 

Yeah i don't know how it reads anything. 8 is way to much. It feels like the car is in a protection mode or it may just have a damn problem. I need time to diagnose some more.

It's not doing anything else wrong so we will see.

 

Why bother? the stock intercooler is great. unless you get a tune...or even for that fact a turbo swap.... there is no need to waste your money.

 

did u try resetting the PCM? Unplug the positive terminal of the battery and see where that gets u.

 

No I don't have the tools to do it with me. I will tomorrow. We will see if it's doing it in the morning.

 

The LNF can knock some stock even on 93 octane. Mine did on the dyno when we were tuning it. I had 3* of KR from 3000-4500 rpms. 8* is a lot though it will kill your acceleration as you noticed. Stock advance is only 10* you were seeing on 2* advance that is nuts.

 

I may try to log some pulls or something. I added some octane booster and the car is back. I'm wondering if I'm reading the guage wrong cause i get KR when I let off and inconsistent KR. Like 1-3 most of the time at full throttle.

is there anyway to log IAT2s. I see no way with the DashHawk. May need someone else log it with a different computer or program.

I'm starting to think the guage is weird. I'll try to log KR and timing tomorrow. When it's cool out.

 

LMAO

 

why didnt u get an aero??

 

I already had the Dash Hawk from my 2.2 and it works very well. Reads actual AFR, boost pressure and almost everything else on the car.

 

.....

the aero can read actual AFR if u hook the wideband up to it. It also reads tons of other parameters, and can log information, has a shift light, allows u to watch 2-4 parameters at once, etc.

If u ever consider getting rid of ur dash hawk I TOTALLY recommend one.

 

DashHawk reads commanded and actual. SS/TC has a stock wideband.

DashHawk does all the things you listed, along with speed testing like 0-60 quarter mile and much more.

It can list up to 6 parameters at once

 

How are your A/F ratios. The stock tune is stupid lean, especially in the lower revs.

 

AFRs are pretty good. You are right about lean. It runs low 15s at times when in low revs. At WOT it goes to 13.5 and finishes in the mid 12s i believe.

 

Solution:

Unplug Positive battery terminal in trunk

Wait 10 minutes

Tighten Positive cable to battery:

Start car

Enjoy


Try not to beat it too hard for another 500 miles