thats where im at brother, and its killing me because i just dont think i will be happy with the bnr because it seems to max out <400whp on pump 93 gas...dunno yet. plus i am not going to buy it until somebody make an offer on my setup

 

Seems like people can hardly hit 400 whp on a bnr. where people have hit 400 whp on the 20g.

Same price. No sending in a core. I think the 20g is t he better bang for the buck

 

the only person we've seen make good numbers on pump gas is james on the 20g

 

True.

 

james is like the only guy that had it tuned to the psi it was supposed to be at though. the other couple guys on here have it tuned at like 21-22psi, and that makes the same numbers as our stock turbo on 24-25psi...the 20g is the best bang for buck if it had good driveability and didnt surge like others had said.
still a big possibility for me though to go all hahn

 

LOL, I'm sure that with the proper tuner, the BNR would be capable of doing 400whp. This might be something Term might like to challenge.

 

Well if you get the Hahn setup, might as well get a rebuild kit with all your seals. You will have leaks with time. Just the nature of the turbo.

 

If you have the BNR with a "good tune" why don't you put it on the Dyno then???

 

I've hit 400-432 most so far and it wasn't more then 25lbs just a very aggressive timing tune

Ethanol

 

This is my suggestion. When you purchase te 20g upgrade the compressor wheel to atleast a 60mm wheel with a compressor housing that don't surge. The cfm flow will be close to 750-850 depending on which wheel you get. Please you can get them are kinashi, 25g greddys etc. about 100-200$ in parts but you'll create more cfm then the 20g whic is 650-685 ...

 

DONE, thank to the info you sent me

Here we go:
Oil feed, I used these from Treadstone:
Line - I got the 36in 3AN version as this is what Bryan at BNR suggested so you dont flood the turbo with oil. This is a kit as Treadstone doesnt have the line on its own on the site and I never asked them to sell me the line alone...but you could ask them and see what they say.

Turbo Oil supply Feed Line- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

Banjo fittings - I got two of these in the 14mm size. They only offer a 3AN right now but just make sure that this is what you are getting when you order. If they start offering a 4AN version and thats what you get, it will not match the line hookup. You dont need new banjo bolts as the stock one on the block and the one BNR send with the turbo both fit perfectly in these bajo fittings from Treadstone.

Banjo Oil Feed Fitting - TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

Ok, the water lines. Those were a bit more tricky:
I purchased these banjos w/bolt for the in/out water ports on the turbo itself. You want the 14mm fitting AND bolt. You need both as they fit perfectly on the turbo. The 17* angle was perfect for lifting the line away from the turbo so you can screw on the fitting that is on the line you will build.

Banjo 14mm Water Feed Fitting -6AN 17 degree- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

Water lines, continued. Now that you have the fittings for the turbo side of things you still need to make the lines themselves along as purchase a new banjo fitting and bolt for the line that comes from the engine block to turbo.
This is the banjo and bolt needed for the engine block feed:

Unisteer 8021550 UniSteer Banjo Fittings

Next you need the actual line and the fittings for the lines that screw onto the banjo fittings on the turbo. To make it work you need four of these:

JEGS Performance Products 100001 JEGS AN Hose End Fittings - Blue/Red
And the line:
JEGS Performance Products 100911 JEGS Pro-Flo 200 Series Braided Hose

I was able to get it done with the 6ft length even with an error in a cut and having to cut another piece off it was enough, but you may want a 8 or 10ft length just in case.

The last fitting you need, well that I did, based on what frogstofall had already done(you may choose to do it differently) is this hose fitting:

JEGS Performance Products 100581 JEGS AN Male to Hose Barb Adapters

This fitting will go into the hose that is connected to the hard line that comes from the front of the engine and around the side, where the intake is, that then connects to the turbo. this fitting slides into the stock hose and the other end will screw onto the line you just made to goes to the turbo. This replaces the hard line that goes from the rubber hose to the turbo.

This is a lot of info, but I hope you guys are able to follow

Here are a few pics. Disregard the hard line for the oil feed. The oil line was taking too long and I really really wanted to put the car back together. It was a bitch to replace the line afterwards cause the oil feedfrom the block is right under the exhaust mani. Here you go:

Pic of the new banjo bolt and fitting on the block for the water feed:



The water return line from turbo to hose:



What it looks like with the new fittings on the water inlet/outlet

 

i was thinking of either getting lines that Brian was offering or making my own. Im glad i dont have to do all the work now, thanks for posting that.


Oh yea and i left out from earlier, im on 91 octane. No 93 here in kansas

 

No problem! Im not sure what lines he offered you. Id get him to give you an idea of what the offer consits of and then compare to what I posted and see if its the same. I know he mentioned rubber hoses to me the last time we spoke and I was not keen to that idea lol

I never thought Id be needing to get under there or work on the engine as much as I have so having these lines now will make things much easier if I have to tear into her again in the future.

 

honestly, all of this is making me just wanna give up on the car...none of this sounds like what i wanna do, especially for power close to 400whp...maybe i should just wait till tax season and either get rid of the car or get a zzp s252et turbo kit for 3100 flippin dollars

 

s256* and yes I say that is the best kit out.

 

3100 sure is a lot of money for just a turbo to put into a car thats only worth less than 10k trade, 13k wholesale, but we will see what happens...
zzp says that they recommend the s252et for balanced torque/horsepower, but the 256 makes more power obviously

 

That's funny that Bryan said -4AN was too much for the oil feed bc he told me the exact opposite. Said -3AN was on the small side.

Aaron, you need to make up your mind. You're are more indecisive than anyone I've ever seen. Haha!

 

lol, i know man, im very indecisive about my car now, it sucks...lol

 

hey guys. crashed my ss/sc. got a e36 m3. crashed that into a brand new sls amg gullwing. literally 80 miles on her. got a e46 two days later. put more into it than my cobalt cost. my suggestion. go rwd.

 

Okay where do I start...


Nevemind. I'll let my associates hand you your ass...

 

LOL
He said 4AN with a banjo bolt that was restricted would work. I opted for the 3AN with the banjo bolt he sends that has the two holes in it. It's plenty of oil still

 

Replacing all these lines are they a must or is just to increase the life of the turbo and effiency?

 

That makes absolutely no sense. And please...i beg you...never ever ever ever ever ever ever....drive in atlanta.

 

x2

 

If you get the BNR, no. You can use all the stock stuff. Just have to bend the lines a tad to make them fit the new orientation. But were talking like half an inch here and there. Nothing major.

Replacing the lines is just a convenience thing. Ive been back there during the last year more times than Id like and have had to mess with those damn hard lines everytime. SUCKS. So when I had the head off the car this time around, I replaced them.

As far as other kits go, well they are KITS and they dont match up at all to the stock parts and come with their own new lines you have to route and new hardhare. Replacing the turbo on the car isnt something you just DO. Its a mod, a pretty big one at that. Not to be taken lightly.