I understand where you coming from. I don't intend to street race. I Try to stick to the track now. Yes when I first got it I would run anywhere anytime. Plus I make almost 6k a month at my job. So whats a couple hundred every couple months on tires. And I don't really like awd cars thats just me.

And btw my cousin has a fully built 99 si civic. Dart race block, carbon fiber intake, fully built type r head and built trans. Makes 890 whp. It spins till it bounces the rev limited in 5th gear and has a 10,000 rpm redline but will still outrun most the cars around us spinning. No better day than outrunning a vette spinning both front tires on the interstate spinning

 

Nope its not worth it. I dumped tons of money in my cobalt and all it did was make me slower. having slow cars jump out on you and not being able to catch them until after 100 mph sucks. not to mention parts break all the time on these cars and the community is full of people not willing to commit money for solutions. If i could do it again i just would have had the car tuned, nothing else.

 

thats great and all for your cousin but when he runs into a vette with over 1000 whp that dead hooks he's toast

 

I was just saying. Look at matts car. It spins and accelerates faster than most cars that hook. If I wanna run my car I will run slicks or radials

 

Bingo. I thought the same as others at first saying why do we need a 400-500hp fwd car, because we can and it's a boat load of fun. It has completely change my mind after having it done one. There is such a thing as a low and high boost with just a push of a button... The solution with those that have traction problem is run low down low and when you get up there in speed just hit that high boost button that Matt had setup in the cockpit.

Do it... 500 DD would be my future goal.

 

Thanks man. Got a few people that are trying to help and saying good things. This us why I posted on here was to get insight from other people that have built these cars. If anyone has any ideas or changes let me know.

 

Oh and another question. With the stock bottom end and neutral balance shafts what would be the best rpm to run max?

 

Sounds like it is going to be a nice build. Good luck.

 

That's funny, I keep putting money in my car and it keeps getting faster. I have never broke my car either. I guess I am using better quality parts than most.

 

I agree with Cmiller. That seems like kind of a cop out.

 

You gotta pay to play. No matter what drivetrain. Thats what I tell all my buddys that take their daily drivers out when we trail ride and have a lil fun in the mud and someone breaks something. Usually I'm not happy unless I broke something when I take my jeep out. I guarantee he drops enough money in it and he will get it to hook, whether it takes a complete from the ground up custom boost limited tune or what.

 

lsj brakes, 15s, an actual slick, coilovers w/ stiff rear. shouldn't have any problem hooking.

 

My Autowerks 55/57 still spools at 4000/4200 rpms, I wish I would have a 3500/3700 rpm spool.

 

i was flowing over 20psi at 3700 with a 5557 so idk what to tell you man. usually the 5857 spools around 4k. for the amount of power you want you need to unfortunately sacrifice some spool.

are for this little debate in this thread.... if your trying to go around turns with this car there is absoutely no reason for more then 450whp. if your going in a straight line i can see more. ive dumped a ton of money into this car.... its been noticed by people, forum members, modified magazine and speed hunters. car has yet to break EVER and that being said taken it on numerous long drives from illinois to florida and north carolina. stock bottom end, stock head and fuel system but 2 different large turbo setups. up until my most recent incident the car would still be going strong...fckn semis.....

 

I'm at 24psi, I would be happy with a full spool at 3700

 

i was at 25psi and only revving to 6200

 

The only thing that I like about a late spool is that the car has more traction, even if I would like a spool a little earlier. I still learned to like it because when I pull to 7k rpms, when I shift I'm still over 4k and I have immediate spool on the rest of the gears with the difference that even on 2nd gear I still have a decent grip. My other SS is only on bolts on and tuned, it has about 100hp less but because of the spool of the stock turbo, it loses grip waaaayy more than my SS with the 55/57, basically only 4th and 5th don't spin completely.

 

I'm just looking for a nice power gain with pump gas and meth injection. But have a track tune for race fuel. I already have lsj brakes and ordering tires and rims. I'll make it hook just wondering if maybe a s256 will suffice. Once again I know people have built cars and are knowledgable on this.

 

This was another point also. Have a nice 2 step to pull boost from the line. Once it hooks on the slicks it's gonna hold boost launching at 6,000

 

His trans is going to love him though... Luckily he is going ZZP S2 trans. Hopefully it holds up to some mean launches.

Get a WOT box or use HPTuners to program in some boost off the start lol, make the tires and trans really work.

EDIT: ****** you beat me to it hahahaha

 

Sorry but I never did any drag race. Why does it seem that people like better smaller rims for it?

 

You need a soft tall sidewalk for traction. The stock tires have no flex ... The 15s can allow you to run a taller sidewall.

A stiff short sidewall helps handing and a tall soft sidewall helps acceleration.

 

We will definitely see what it will hold. Setting up a car is what I do best.. Remember I raced dirt cars. I still have my scales and weights. I'll make it hook like a dream.

 

well in theory the smaller the diameter the faster the car will accelerate b/c you are making the gears different. its also cheaper to buy a drag radial or slick for a smaller rim

but back to the topic good luck with you build i am currently building my car as well

 

Oh nice. Thank you. So basically a 225/65-16 is much better than a 225/40-18 for traction.