:I want to make sure I know how to remove it! I could experiment, but I don't wanna break it!

Here's a pick with it still on....it's the connector with the white retainer facing up..just to the left of the wrench here:



Evidently that retainer has to be taken off, before you can release the connector...it's off in this pic:



Here's a pic of the assembly...I'm talking about the connector direct to the pedal:



Can someone here give me some pointers on removing the harness from the pedal?
I assume you push a tab on top of the white retainer to pull it out...that then allows you to press down on the actual release for the connector itself?

Edited:

It's called a CPA Lock:
They are used to insure the connector doesn't accidently disconnect:



Here it is:


So...how do ya remove this? Just press down the top tab with a small (jewlers) scew driver
and pull out?

Edit #2
Found this usefull post on Solstice forum

Pontiac Solstice Forum - View Single Post - GM pedal cover

When moving on to the accelorator pedal, note that removing the 3 bolts should be done first before trying to remove the sensor plug. This allows you to have the entire pedal arm in hand to get a small screwdriver under the plug latch. SO MUCH easier. I fumbled with trying to remove the plug before removing the pedal arm and lost some valuable time

That was my plan as well!

 

After you remove the gray piece, you'll still need to press down on the black tab to remove it, but yes, you've got the idea.

Why are you removing this?

 

It's the same style connector as the coil packs if you want to try one first. Wang is correct on the way to remove it.

 

Well, that's what I was asking...I guess the grey piece is removed by pressing down in the tiny center tab (small screwdriver, etc).

I found a new gas pedal from a GMPP *Performance pedal cover kit*..cheap! People have posted here that this pedal (it's the entire assembly!) functions much better than stocker since it's *stiffer*..not as trigger happy.. as stock pedal. You're getting the electronic position sensor included with this, so either that OR the mechanics are modified vs stock. This can be of benefit for heel and toe as well as launching. At least that's what I've READ here and other boards. For $35 shipped I figured why not try it?

 

$35 is cheap, but the pedal action is just fine for heel/toe. The only pedal covers I would go with are SRP, which are exactingly engineered to grip well. They are fanatic about it. I haven't had a chance to get a set and install them yet though, and they are more expensive than the GMPP one.

SRP CHEVROLET COBALT and SS PEDALS

SRP Pedal Pictures

This one is my personal favorite. Cf tests for both wet and dry pedals

Pedal Grip Test

I'll get them when I wear through the clutch pedal cover. I always kill the clutch pedal cover before any of the others. I use the footrest all the time, unless I'm shifting, so I tend to rotate my heel, and use the left side of the clutch pedal.

 

It's not a matter of of pedal grip with the gas pedal. read this post here. That's what made up my mind. When you heal and toe this car, it's real easy to over blip the throttle because the pedal is too sensitive. same with launching.

Link:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/3418651-post1.html

 

The pedal isn't anywhere near overly sensitive, unless someone messed up your tune. Overrevving on a blip for heel-toe is fine. Since you're on the brakes, you should hardly notice the mismatch. Also, if you over blip, just wait a split second before coming off the clutch.

The stock pedal setup is just dandy for heel-toe. I just want metal covers because I can't stand the squeaking that I get when the pedals are wet, plus I can see the clutch pedal cover starting to go.

 

So maybe the op in that thread had a problem to begin with? He isn't the only one to state the sensitivity is better modulated with the GMPP Pedal. I definitely think it's over sensitive on off the line launches. I guess there's only one way to find out.

 

Do it, ronn!!!!!!!!!11!!

 

Update..got the pedal. I tested the feel (pushing it down by hand) vs stock. No difference that I could tell. Also, something I failed to note...the stock pedal has a *HEEL and TOE* tab on the base. This one doesn't. I would have put it on had it been stiffer though. I guess the guy who was touting this mod (had an SC) may have had a pedal that was defective in some way. Don't wanna waste my time putting this on to confirm, since I'm not doing this for appearance. So, I now have a spare.

 

Told ya not to do it

 

Those SRP pedals are good value, well made. But contrary to Wangspeed I hate the gas pedal, so I came up with this for delta and corvettes

Dont go near the track to road race without this modification. Worth its weight in gold, sells for less There are cars made in the world that are really made for driving.'70's BMW with the 1600 and 2002 Tii were the first sedans, Porsche with the quintessential 911 series. The reason John says this, is that when you drive these BMW and Porsche cars, matching revs on the downshift is perfect every time with a modicum of skill. (I am not talking about sequentially shifted paddle actuated electro mechanical computer controlled microsecond shifting.) I am talking of 4, 5 and 6 speed manual shift gear boxes with a clutch. The BMW and Porsche cars all have pendant cltuch and brake and floor munted gas pedals. This gives the actuation control and ergonomic pedal placement for good brake applies while permittin a side of foot "blip" to the gas pedal to match revs.

Now created for Delta cars by John, as used by the Corvettes Devon builds in the RaceShop. This gives you an effective gas pedal , that makes it possible to get downshift revs matched right all of the time, while braking as hard as you like .So what are you waiting for?

 

Well, for $35 shipped...was worth a try.

 

oh wow this caught my eye