2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

GMPP LSJ Clutch Upgrade For LNF

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Old 12-22-2014, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by footballplaya3k

I felt zero difference going from the LNF to GMPP.
Same here. The gmpp just engages closer to the floor.
Old 12-29-2014, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboWood
This is a fun thread....it's different...it's the same...you shouldn't resurface....it's fine if you do it right...why take the risk...why waste the money...ah, the great fun of having no data.

Even the pictures of the clutches are inconclusive (other than LSJ being clearly different). The springs on the GMPP are a different color, but of course that doesn't prove anything and the two (LNF and GMPP) disks are reversed so you can't compare the structure. The pressure plates look similar, and who knows if the different color is just due to different photographers/lighting.

CED is a great supporter of this site, but even their comments are confusing. Are we to believe that having different disks is not important? The entire aftermarket world spends a lot of money trying to convince us their disk is magical and will out perform all others. In fact it's basically the only thing that is tune-able in clutch design other than the load generated by the pressure plate. It is what will largely impact coefficient of friction given the pressure plate and flywheel are steel (ignoring exotic carbon clutches). The coefficient of friction is sort of critical....just a tiny (read: really big) bit important.

and, end rant....

Daniel
I second that. Just logged back and found my post with 50 more replies yet I'm still a bit confused. Still heading towards a GMPP through the confusion though. KY seems a solid choice as well but then some say when the clutch is too strong, the tranny will end up taking the blow. Any insights?
Old 12-30-2014, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboWood
This is a fun thread....it's different...it's the same...you shouldn't resurface....it's fine if you do it right...why take the risk...why waste the money...ah, the great fun of having no data.

Even the pictures of the clutches are inconclusive (other than LSJ being clearly different). The springs on the GMPP are a different color, but of course that doesn't prove anything and the two (LNF and GMPP) disks are reversed so you can't compare the structure. The pressure plates look similar, and who knows if the different color is just due to different photographers/lighting.

CED is a great supporter of this site, but even their comments are confusing. Are we to believe that having different disks is not important? The entire aftermarket world spends a lot of money trying to convince us their disk is magical and will out perform all others. In fact it's basically the only thing that is tune-able in clutch design other than the load generated by the pressure plate. It is what will largely impact coefficient of friction given the pressure plate and flywheel are steel (ignoring exotic carbon clutches). The coefficient of friction is sort of critical....just a tiny (read: really big) bit important.

and, end rant....

Daniel
Not sure what you are so confused about. The data related to the gmpp clutch and flywheel are pretty well covered in this thread. More data on the gmpp clutch here: Ecotec LSJ Clutch Upgrade Kit 19212712 < there is 6 different links designated to this clutch for you to choose from
Old 01-22-2015, 01:20 AM
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Any one else with an LNF running the GMPP? Mods?
Old 01-22-2015, 09:29 AM
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I've never seen a gmpp clutch slip on a LNF, even on turbo swapped cars. It's a surprisingly solid clutch, up to a certain point of course.
Old 01-22-2015, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 09CobaltSS1
I've never seen a gmpp clutch slip on a LNF, even on turbo swapped cars. It's a surprisingly solid clutch, up to a certain point of course.
Ive just received a mail by Tom from CED...

Do not use the 19212712 for the LNF, just order the correct LNF clutch, its just as strong

My stocker is about 45k miles and it's slipping on 3rd and 4th gear pulls

Could the issue be that it has been poorly driven by the previous owner...or is the GMPP really stronger than the LNF...still confused.
Old 01-22-2015, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Sinnerx
Ive just received a mail by Tom from CED...

Do not use the 19212712 for the LNF, just order the correct LNF clutch, its just as strong

My stocker is about 45k miles and it's slipping on 3rd and 4th gear pulls

Could the issue be that it has been poorly driven by the previous owner...or is the GMPP really stronger than the LNF...still confused.
The GM rating is just as strong. But I can't get mine (GMPP) to slip after ~30k miles from a 3rd gear 60roll, there was a dealer around me that replaced a friends LNF trans on warranty and he was trying to get the GMPP clutch but the service rep kept saying it wouldn't work and all this. Then after he bought a South Bend stage 4+ he got talking to the actual service tech and he goes oh yeah I've got the GMPP installed on my LNF...
Old 01-22-2015, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Sinnerx

Ive just received a mail by Tom from CED...

Do not use the 19212712 for the LNF, just order the correct LNF clutch, its just as strong

My stocker is about 45k miles and it's slipping on 3rd and 4th gear pulls

Could the issue be that it has been poorly driven by the previous owner...or is the GMPP really stronger than the LNF...still confused.
The reason they say not to use it on an lnf is because the stock lnf is close to the gmpp cause the gmpp is an upgrade for the lsj.

If you think about it we have the second transfer different gears, doesn't change the clutch just because we have different gears.

Also Tom says don't use the gmpp with lnf cause the clutch will not be covered under warranty if installed on an lnf.
Old 01-22-2015, 01:54 PM
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Thanks guys, it was exactly the kind of info I was looking for! Cheers!
Old 01-22-2015, 03:31 PM
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The gmpp clutch doesn't need a traditional break in period. Not a bad idea to take it easy on it for a while, but you don't have to for 500 miles like aftermarket clutches

Also, rock auto sells shim kits for the flywheel. Never heard of anyone using one, but they have a .025" and a .05". That'd allow you to reuse the stock flywheel if whoever you had resurface it kept up with how much they took off
Old 01-22-2015, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by southal cobalt
The gmpp clutch doesn't need a traditional break in period. Not a bad idea to take it easy on it for a while, but you don't have to for 500 miles like aftermarket clutches

Also, rock auto sells shim kits for the flywheel. Never heard of anyone using one, but they have a .025" and a .05". That'd allow you to reuse the stock flywheel if whoever you had resurface it kept up with how much they took off
They also sell new flywheels from AMS at 71$ and LUK at 95$...whats the average cost of resurfacing?

Thanks for the info on the break in!
Old 01-22-2015, 06:03 PM
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You do need to break in all clutches on the new flywheel. That is terrible advice.

There is no warranty if you put it in yourself.
Old 01-22-2015, 07:26 PM
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The GMPP clutch is NOT simply a stock lnf clutch.... period.

The pressure plates are indeed different and so is the disc material.

Also, for anyone who's curious. Don't waste your money on buying a LNF flywheel from crateenginedepot. Simply buy a LSJ flywheel.
Old 01-22-2015, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 09CobaltSS1
The GMPP clutch is NOT simply a stock lnf clutch.... period.

The pressure plates are indeed different and so is the disc material.

Also, for anyone who's curious. Don't waste your money on buying a LNF flywheel from crateenginedepot. Simply buy a LSJ flywheel.
Lol that's what the PO of my car did.
Old 01-22-2015, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 09CobaltSS1
The GMPP clutch is NOT simply a stock lnf clutch.... period.

The pressure plates are indeed different and so is the disc material.

Also, for anyone who's curious. Don't waste your money on buying a LNF flywheel from crateenginedepot. Simply buy a LSJ flywheel.
Hmm, what notable differences have you found between gmpp and stock lnf pressure plates?
Old 01-22-2015, 08:46 PM
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He said it, different PP and disc material.
This topis has been beaten to death, they are NOT the same thing.
Old 01-22-2015, 09:07 PM
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The gmpp pressure plate is heavier than the lnf and I'll have to dig up exactly what the differences in the makeup of the disc materials are again. They are different though, unless GM has suddenly changed something, but I sort of doubt that one.
Old 01-22-2015, 09:38 PM
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Riceburner or someone had a thread that showed the LNF and GMPP right next to each other and their was obvious differences.

Almost 30k on my GMPP with no issues.
Old 01-23-2015, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by blueLNFftw
He said it, different PP and disc material.
This topis has been beaten to death, they are NOT the same thing.
The sprung disc hubs definitely not the same. But pressure plate..

Originally Posted by 09CobaltSS1
The gmpp pressure plate is heavier than the lnf and I'll have to dig up exactly what the differences in the makeup of the disc materials are again. They are different though, unless GM has suddenly changed something, but I sort of doubt that one.
I was under the impression that the Sachs pressure plates we use for lnf and gmpp is pretty much universal for Ecotecs with f35 and f40 flywheels( yes the pressure plates will even fit and and function on the F40 dual mass flywheel) Based on the pictures of both pressure plates, they look the exact same, and because of this, one can only assume that if there is any difference it would be the pound rating. Unless the friction disc on the pressure plate is of different hardness? The overall weight difference is interesting...

Last edited by LNFwagonSS; 01-23-2015 at 03:13 AM.
Old 01-23-2015, 10:17 AM
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The PP is definitely different as well. The difference in pedal feel alone says that.
Old 01-23-2015, 10:48 AM
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The pressure plates physically LOOK the same, but then again so do all of the F35 pressure plates across the board. Pretty much all aftermarket companies who make a clutch setup for the cobalt all use a Sachs pp, however the internal the spring rates and counter weights are what make the difference. For example, even South Bend's strongest clutch (stage 4+) with a 2300lb clamping force rating uses a Sach's pp. Take off the orange coating and it would look exactly the same as the stock lnf pp at a quick glance. Just look at the numbers on the plates. They're stamped differently depending on pressure ratings.
Old 01-23-2015, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by blueLNFftw
You do need to break in all clutches on the new flywheel. That is terrible advice.

There is no warranty if you put it in yourself.
Don't know why you always give me a hard time, but in the ecotec build book it says that you just need at least one heat cycle and a few easy engagements before it's good to go.
Old 01-23-2015, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by footballplaya3k
Riceburner or someone had a thread that showed the LNF and GMPP right next to each other and their was obvious differences.

Almost 30k on my GMPP with no issues.
Great, we have a very similar setup!
Old 06-12-2017, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by LNFwagonSS
The main reason why CED says not to use this with the lnf is warranty. If you have any problems at all with the clutch, TOB, or clutch pipe it will not be warrantied if used on an LNF. Tom said this is what happens when installed by a dealership. I think that page also says warranty will be void if not installed by dealership.

That said, only other thing you would need is new flywheel bolts, and make sure pressure plate is centered when installed.
I just received my gmpp clutch kit. Will the pressure plate bolts that comes with the kit work or will I need ones for my lnf. [I have a HHR SS now. ]
Old 06-13-2017, 06:06 AM
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I used the op bolts that came with the kit. Make sure you use new flywheel bolts though.


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