So, I'm looking for a little insight here from the field... I am currently in the process of getting the GMS1 installed.. in fact the car is at the dealership right now awaiting FEDEX to provide the replacement O-ring that broke during the install (note to GM - maybe include a pack of these things instead of just one?, just in case ---thanks) so anyway, I'd been reading about the BPV and some things came to mind... while I understand the basic reason for the BPV, I wondered, is this something anyone can take advantage of?

say from a stock ride, to the simple GMS1 upgrade? or is it made to be used for people creating a specific amount of HP and boost or more... if the idea of the BPV is to relieve surging... can anyone could take advantage of it?... but then I have never really seen any specific numbers where BPV's become more advantageous. If its about Boost pressure... does the GMS1 upgraded Boost pressure suggest that a BPV is needed? or can the stock components still handle it?

so I guess the end state here is,.. when do you actually NEED a BPV?

Thanks all ahead of time...

 

When ever your car has a turbo

 

This. All turbocharged cars need either a bpv or bov.

 

ok.. maybe I wasn't clear in my question... I understand that we neeed them.. but I guess what I didnt ask was.. how much can our stock components take in Boost pressure before say a Forge BPV becomes more practical... or does that even matter....

 

It really doesn't matter. The Forge is sturdier, sounds cooler, and has can't tear, however, the stock bpv can take anything that the stock turbo can throw at it. It's not a matter of at a certain point you need to upgrade, it's just a matter of eliminating weak points.

 

your next mod should be OTTP Stage 1 motor mount to eliminate torque steering and help transfer power to the wheels.

 

Thanks Tommy, I guess that was the answer I was looking for.

 

sounds like your saying that the stock motor mount is going to have some troubles with the GMS1's increased output... I'll look into it.. thanks for the reccommendation

 

Sounds like somebody doesn't know what they're doing?
From instructions:
Make sure that the green O-ring from the production MAP sensor
is no longer attached to the mounting surface. Put the
new O-ring on the new TMAP sensor. Both are provided in the
kit. Lubricate O-ring with clean engine oil before installation.

 

Ya they broke mine too

 

yeah.. I got a bad feeling about this now.. because when the service manager came out to show me the broken O-Ring, there was no lubrication on it... I sure as hell hope they are following the instructions... they are direct from GM for s***'s sake... ughh.. a pain in the rear...

 

That's the problem..they don't take the time to READ instructions properly.
Better to do this yourself...or have a TRUSTED mechanic do it and then bring it in for the flash. I would have a chat with the service manager ASAP about your concerns. If they fu$ked this up, there's no telling what else they'll screw up. The wiring (splice) and the BOTTOM sensor installation are critical. They have to shave down a boss on the lower sensor so it fits properly. Make sure they fully understand this.

Here's a PDF link to instructions. Copy it, then go over it and HIGHLIGHT IN RED what I pointed out just now. Show it service manager.
Good Luck!

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/products...structions.pdf

 

yeah I'm gonna make sure they understand this... I told them that it was hightly reccommended that they sodder and heat wrap the wires versus using the connectors that came in the bag... I didn't see the part about shaving down the boss.. Im sure I would have had I done it myself... but what I'm afraid of is that they are doing this like a oil change.. instead of a performance modification... I am the first one they have done.. it could either go good .. or bad... but if they F it up.. I wont pay a dime for the labor...

 

I didn't see the part about shaving down the boss

Note: When installing
Power Upgrade Kit part number 19212670 on the HHR
SS and Cobalt SS, the TMAP for the fresh air duct between
the intercooler and the engine must be trimmed
See figure #10 on instructions.

 

Guess what I'm gonna print out! hahah

 

Yep. Print it out...go over it with a fine tooth comb...highlight in RED all things that need special attention. I also recall *loctite* being used in places as well.

 

well they are already into it... I will be calling monday since they dont work the weekends and make sure they go over the whole thing... I would prefer if I could stand over their shoulder.. but I know that's not gonna happen...one thing at a time..

 

oh and hey... I wanna clarify something ... a BPV and a diverter valve are the same things correct?

 

prety much. a bpv just recirculates the air in the charge pipe side of the turbo back to the intake on the turbo this intern releives the charge pipe pressure preventing surge. in a way its a diverter valve.

 

ok cool because the way that Modern Performance describes it on their site, it says Diverter Valve while underneather there is a review for the BPV... so I just assumed they were one in the same... but then you know what they say about making assumptions

Forge Diverter Valve 08-10 Cobalt Turbo - Blow Off Valves - Forge

 

yea thats the bpv alright same difference haha

 

Hey since I am continuing this Thread, I thought I might ask... with the GMS1 and the added boost.. which I think is between 21-22lbs... would the Green spring still be the best choice? or perhaps the Yellow....

 

Most people say to just stick with the green one.

 

Stick with the green one. And that me in that video review :-)

 

hahaha oh nice!! well then I'll roll with the green one then... see what happens... did you ever lubricate yours? or is it still stock... and also being that I live in SC, I kinda wonder if I will have to switch back to the stock diaphram in the winter... it will get below freezing here in Dec-Mar ..but I do garage mine all the time...