HAHA, admitting a loss is never easy! Finding the answer to the problem.....priceless

 

great post 2 posts up.

 

I tuned it myself with HP Tuners. 24 psi 311% airload 36-37 lbs/min airflow. You are in Indiana. I am Broke (Tom) should be able to fix you up with a tune. He lives in NW Indiana. I helped him tune his car and he has a couple of my tunes as well.

I wish more Trifecta tuned guys would come to this realization.

 

^^ more of us would if we had HPtuners in order to flash the tune, datalog, or flash back to stock if needed.. Unfortunately (maybe just speaking for myself) I do not have HPtuners nor do I want to invest $500 in tuning software that I might not use very much other than to flash my ECM a few times..

trust me termi, I have been tossing around this idea around now for quite some time. It's just not economical for me unfortunately

 

Cary, If you want to drive up north a bit, I can certainly help you out. I have an '08 model year license but any other years, we need to get some credits. I'm out in the sticks between two little towns 15 miles or so south of Valparaiso.

 

Again we really need a "what shoul di do thread" i ******* hate seeing this ****

 

Love the new sig quote. Reminds me of mine a little.

 

The TF is 250 or 300? I forget honestly. Then to be able to flash your car yourself with updates or back to stock tune, that cable costs money correct? Its really 6 of one and a half dozen of the other.

And just using it once to get a good tune is worth the money spent

 

naa, when I got mine he had a special going and I paid right around $375 for everything (including the cable). Plus all updates and retunes are free as long as you have the ezflash cable. I've already obviously purchased the trifecta setup so it's not like I could just spend another $125 and have HPTuner, so the extra $500 for me at the moment just isn't do-able. Ya know what I'm sayin?

I really don't have any qualms with the trifecta tune anyways. More power is always great, but my clutch and tires hate me enough already as it is with 305whp and 345wtrq (that was what I last dynoed last year with only a cai so I may have a bit more now) so I could only imagine how things would be with 350-360whp and almost 400wtrq.

 

If you can, lean your A/F out to 0.87-0.88 lambda (12.8-13.0 A/F) that will make a 20-30 whp difference on its own.

 

At the risk of being flamed off the forum let me give you some other ideas. I'm NOT advertising for Trifecta but you should at least know what they're about. Check through the forum and see if you can find people using the Superchips tune. Either there are very few or they don't have a lot to talk up. Then see how many people are using the Trifecta tune and hear what they have to say about it. As you can see in my sig I don't have my tune yet. They've been trying to fill the orders as fast as they can. The price you're quoting is just about the same as Trifecta and you get options and a whole lot more. Just go to their site and study it a little so you can be an informed shopper.

 

I could have tuned you and then you would have the advantage of having the support of a local tuner. You can ask all of those I have tuned I have helped them with any and all questions, concerns and problems they may have.

 

that lean huh? I'm currently right around 12.1 right now. I know you stated once that you and Vince disagree on how rich/lean to run these cars, and obviously you've head great results with how lean you run, but would you be setting yourself up for issue with detination or knock at that point? I know that DI is obviously different from PI and I'm far from a tuner (especially coming from a purely carburated V8 background), but 13.0 a/f in a boosted motor just seems scary lean..

I'm sure this has probably been discussed before, so I'm sorry to dig up old news

 

The GM stage tune runs 14.0 A/F at WOT from 2,000-4,500 RPMs. After that it tapers to 13.8 then 13.2 then 12.9 at the richest. 14.0 A/F is leaner than what I run by far and GM must think it is safe because they warranty the stage 1 cars just the same. 12.1 A/F is way too rich on a GDI engine even a forced induction one. Changing from a 12.4 A/F to a 13.0 A/F made a 25 whp difference on one of the cars I dyno tuned and that was on stock timing and 20-21 psi. My car is a full second faster from 60-100 mph running 13.0 A/F vs 12.58 A/F that I used to run a long while ago. If you made 305 whp at 12.1 A/F you could see 330-340 whp easily at 13.0 A/F. I have no knock at all on my car I had to back the timing off at 24psi. I tired richening it to 12.58 A/F like I used to run and it still knocked on more timing and it was noticeably slower on my logs.

 

Speaks the truth. I saw 25whp going from .85 to .88 lambda.

I ran 30psi at .88 Lambda with 0 knock running more timing then a TF tune too

 

huh.. no ****? I didn't realize GM was running these motors so lean (not sarcasm). So are you holding 13.0 across the whole rpm range WOT or do you tapper off in either direction at any point? Also, being that I run 24-25 psi, if I do lean out at all, should i back the timing off like you did as well? How far are you pulling the timing, and again are you holding that same timing throughout the rpm range at WOT?

 

That is what no one seems to see. These motors hate rich. When you first started Nick you remember I yelled at you and told you that even 0.85 lambda ( 12.5 A/F) was too rich LOL. I always try to help those who will listen to what I have to say. If I wanted to I could have kept the optimum A/F a secret from everyone but I am not like that. I want everyone to be just as satisfied with their cars and their tunes as I am with mine.

 

I ran up to 10* down low at 30psi at that AFR without knock. I believe Term was around 8-9 down low.

Term - you are correct sir I left it at the .85 til I hit the dyno and it was a whole new world, thanks

 

13.0 commaded and actual throughout the entire RPM range at WOT.
I would have to see your tune file to know how much timing you are running to see about how much you should pull and where you should do it. I run about 3* less at 24 psi than I did at 21 psi. The safest thing is to put the timing back to stock in the 200% and up load column and log and check your A/F and check for knock. If no knock is seen add 1-2* especially after 3K rpms as too much low end timing hurts spool actually. Add timing until you start seeing a little knock then back it off 1-2* and recheck everything.

You have better gas I guess. I could not get above 6-8 down low. 9-11 in the midrange and 15 up top but it goes like hell. A/F is key timing is secondary.

 

Def agree with that statement as well! AF makes a much bigger improvement, working the timing does net results but that AFR was the biggest change by far!

 

are you guys running the stock plugs through all of this?

oh and I'm sorry OP if I thread jacked

 

Yes stock plugs gapped at 0.030" instead of 0.035" like stock.

 

Stock plugs gapped to .030

 

NGK 6510's at .032...Well, a tight .032, prob .031.

 

i see i made the signature haha

Nick, my tune was the moderate one, not the aggressive one and i paid 370 for the tune. then i bought the cables for 200. it is nice having the cables and program tho, i can code scan and check things out whenever i want, datalog for free, and all retunes are free. ive heard you offer something similar with the retunes?