It doesn't look bad to me, no grooves, or heat spots surprisingly. Thinking of scuffing it with 80 grit and installing my ky stage 3. Had to swap the lnf tranny for an lsj 4.05 lsd bc I broke 3rd gear. This was a royal pain in the ass to do by myself on jack stands btw. That is a stock clutch and pressure plate. Anyone want to buy my old tranny, no case damage, just 3rd gear is gone lol.

 

If I just went through all the trouble to get in there, I would put a new part in or at least have it professionally surfaced. If you don't, we'll be hearing from you later on about how your new clutch is noisy or didn't last but 10K miles.

 

How did u pull it out with just jack stands? I may be attempting this. If it's to hard I'll pay to get it done

 

Spend the $40 and do it properly. That needs more than a "scuff"

 

I might be tempted to scuff that with an 80 grit 3m disc. email me I could buy your trans perhaps if the price is right. shipping is a bitch and texas is far away

 

I scuffed it up and it looked perfect, straight edge said it was flat, not indicated in flat but flat enough for me lol. I'm having a heluva time bleeding this thing, the pedal feels stock up until half way, then it's like it gets over a bump, the last half of pedal travel is easy....too easy. Still air in there?

And yes on jack stands in a one car garage. It was not fun.

And Powell, I'll get in touch with you on the tranny.

 

make sure the dist. block is on correctly.
no problem we do transmissions!

 

Tripple checked, no leaks either, I just can't get a good seal even if I just put the hose on the nipple and pull a vacuum, the vacuum creeps back up. The pedal feels decent but not to my liking especially that easy second half of the pedal. And shifting feels rough still no difference between not using the clutch and using the clutch while I'm just sitting here if that matters

Wouldn't there be leaks if I was pumping the pedal and the dist block wasn't on correctly?

I checked all the orings while assembling the new tranny with the new tob. And I checked and cleaned the dist block when I did that.

 

Top hat o-ring on clutch pipe?

 

Can't say I've had to re-use an ecotec flywheel yet from my recollections but I've had no issues with scuffing otherwise good looking flywheels that are supposed to be "always replace", including dual-mass units on mini coopers and V6 FWD cars that are not possible to re-surface. If there aren't any burns or nasty heat marks I don't worry about it too much, especially on a stockish car. These flywheels are pretty cheap by comparison though so if it was my car and I planned on pushing it I would probably replace. Seeing as your car just broke a gear and not the clutch I don't see you having any problems.

Now on to the bleeding, if you are seeing good pedal travel up top but not down low, that has to be the master. It's possible some crap got in there while you had the system open and fouled up a section of the bore, so it's losing pressure as it passes down past a certain point or goes over a certain resistance/pressure. I'd suggest trying to vacuum bleed through the reservoir cap as per GM instructions, and if no joy there then just replace the master and re-bleed.

Props for doing it on the ground, it's not easy but it's not as bad as some folks make it out to be, I've done a bunch and they go pretty smoothly after you get the routine down.

 

If something was bad, wouldn't the clutch engagement point have some slop in it? I'm getting a nice feel right on pressing the pedal.

Brakes still feel good too.

 

Yeah the first part of the travel you will feel some hydraulic pressure but there's no real resistance to it so it moves as normal. Once it starts to actually try and disengage the pressure plate, it's blowing past the seal. That's my theory anyway.

Has nothing to do with the brakes, same bottle of fluid but everything else is separated.


Only other option would be a faulty clutch. Did you call KY/ZZP?

 

Finished up the install, looked through the inspection hole while someone pressed the clutch, its fine. Drove it 50 miles today, no issues, engages the same as stock, no chatter, just very grabby.

 

Does running the 4.05 tranny throw off the speedometer any?

 

what powell said...

 

yes. hp tuners you can reset the wheel revs per mile formula.

 

Just an update, everything went back together smoothly. I just scuffed it up with 80 grit like i said. I put 200 miles of city driving on the KY stage 3 now, pedal feels perfect, just like stock and engagement height is the same except this is way more grabby. No chatter at all, I'm very impressed so far, i like it.

Tranny filled with redline 75W90 NS, good stuff.