Issues with K&N SRI at start up?
Issues with K&N SRI at start up?
A few weeks back I posted that I was throwing a misfire code on all four cylinders, followed by a code per cylinder showing a misfire (P0300, P0301,2,3,4).
The CEL cleared a few days later. I found that if I do a cold start up and don't wait for it to go through the Cat Warm-up Cycle, it trips the CEL the next time I start the car...I attributed this to the colder air in the morning (lovely AZ winter weather) and the car running richer than it should with the Intake and new temps, which is creating a misfire (too much fuel in the cylinders). As soon as the intake is pulling "warmer" air off the engine during the warm-up, it should balance everything out. It went away for a week, as I continued to go through the full Cat Warm up Cycle, and I figured problem solved.
OR SO I THOUGHT.
I started it up yesterday, and the CEL was NOT on. A few minutes go by, I notice a rough idle (tach was bouncing between 1300 and 1500 rpms, dipped down to 1100rpms for a split second as well) during the Warm up Cycle and boom, CEL appears. Engine finally smoothed out to 1500rpms. I am assuming it will be on until I a)disconnect the negative battery charge or b) let it run a few good cycles before it clears.
I have not changed the position of my filter. It is currently sitting at the 6'oclock position. (K&N right side up). I haven't had issues until the temperatures outside started getting colder during the morning (sub 55* F) and it has been on the car for over 5k mi. So why now? If the GMS1 was going to "learn it out", wouldnt it have done so already? Anyone else having/had this kind of issues with the SRI?
I know, I know... I need a tune, but I also need my warranty. GMS1 will have to suffice for now.
The CEL cleared a few days later. I found that if I do a cold start up and don't wait for it to go through the Cat Warm-up Cycle, it trips the CEL the next time I start the car...I attributed this to the colder air in the morning (lovely AZ winter weather) and the car running richer than it should with the Intake and new temps, which is creating a misfire (too much fuel in the cylinders). As soon as the intake is pulling "warmer" air off the engine during the warm-up, it should balance everything out. It went away for a week, as I continued to go through the full Cat Warm up Cycle, and I figured problem solved.
OR SO I THOUGHT.
I started it up yesterday, and the CEL was NOT on. A few minutes go by, I notice a rough idle (tach was bouncing between 1300 and 1500 rpms, dipped down to 1100rpms for a split second as well) during the Warm up Cycle and boom, CEL appears. Engine finally smoothed out to 1500rpms. I am assuming it will be on until I a)disconnect the negative battery charge or b) let it run a few good cycles before it clears.
I have not changed the position of my filter. It is currently sitting at the 6'oclock position. (K&N right side up). I haven't had issues until the temperatures outside started getting colder during the morning (sub 55* F) and it has been on the car for over 5k mi. So why now? If the GMS1 was going to "learn it out", wouldnt it have done so already? Anyone else having/had this kind of issues with the SRI?
I know, I know... I need a tune, but I also need my warranty. GMS1 will have to suffice for now.
You have no idea what you're talking about. The GMS1 is a fine tune, but guess what? Contrary to popular belief, you need to tune the K&N intake. Stop spreading rumors that have no basis on fact.
This. Almost all of the GMS1 issues have to do with improperly installed sensors. All intakes for this car should be tuned. It just comes with the territory.
rotate the filter 180 degrees.. The way its positioned now spikes your STFT's in polar opposite directions on accel/deceleration. disconnect the battery after rotating the filter, and then reconnect it.
Why is it that I have never gotten a CEL from my intake if im untuned? I believe the car is touchy when it comes to changing things yes, but if you put the parts in a way that they balance the stft's then you wont have a problem.
Why is it that I have never gotten a CEL from my intake if im untuned? I believe the car is touchy when it comes to changing things yes, but if you put the parts in a way that they balance the stft's then you wont have a problem.
update
Last night I disconnected the negative battery charge and I rotated the filter 180* so the metal thing is facing up. I did notice that the hood pushes the filter down, slightly, because of the height of the filter when its flipped upside down...this could be because I needed the additional bracket, so maybe the intake sits higher... 
I didnt have any CELs this morning ***crosses fingers*** and the tach wasn't bouncing around on the could start up.
I know the true test is driving it around and than doing another cold start up, not a one and done sort of deal.
Thanks for the input.
I didnt have any CELs this morning ***crosses fingers*** and the tach wasn't bouncing around on the could start up.
I know the true test is driving it around and than doing another cold start up, not a one and done sort of deal.
Thanks for the input.
Last night I disconnected the negative battery charge and I rotated the filter 180* so the metal thing is facing up. I did notice that the hood pushes the filter down, slightly, because of the height of the filter when its flipped upside down...this could be because I needed the additional bracket, so maybe the intake sits higher... 
I didnt have any CELs this morning ***crosses fingers*** and the tach wasn't bouncing around on the could start up.
I know the true test is driving it around and than doing another cold start up, not a one and done sort of deal.
Thanks for the input.
I didnt have any CELs this morning ***crosses fingers*** and the tach wasn't bouncing around on the could start up.
I know the true test is driving it around and than doing another cold start up, not a one and done sort of deal.
Thanks for the input.
well now this just poses the question on what basis is a tune good or bad. What specifically makes the gms1 tune a bad tune?
Logic would have one believe that a tune warrantied for 5yr/100k miles (if installed when car is purchased) would only be if its good enough to warrant said warranty. I find it hard to believe a company would slap a warranty on a product for that duration of time if it was bad and prone to causing failures/cel's and overall negative reactions with customers.
If you are basing this assesment on performance #'s, its a conservative tune, yes, but the more aggressive the tune, the tighter your fault margins get as well. Pushing a system at 70% is by default less stressful than pushing a system at 95%. Those arent specific %'s to anything, just a principle in systems engineering.
In either case I don't see how gms1 can be justified as a bad tune. Moreso, a durable and safe tune.
Logic would have one believe that a tune warrantied for 5yr/100k miles (if installed when car is purchased) would only be if its good enough to warrant said warranty. I find it hard to believe a company would slap a warranty on a product for that duration of time if it was bad and prone to causing failures/cel's and overall negative reactions with customers.
If you are basing this assesment on performance #'s, its a conservative tune, yes, but the more aggressive the tune, the tighter your fault margins get as well. Pushing a system at 70% is by default less stressful than pushing a system at 95%. Those arent specific %'s to anything, just a principle in systems engineering.
In either case I don't see how gms1 can be justified as a bad tune. Moreso, a durable and safe tune.
[QUOTE=Gremlin85;5393577]Why do I sense that your issue is unmetered air/vacuum leak?[/QUOTE
Can you please explain...
I originally thought there was a hole either in the sleeve that connects the intake to the turbo or a leak around there, but I checked and I couldnt find anything.
All the other vaccum lines appear to be intact. She's got 18kmi on her, so maybe she needs sprk plugs already...but I doubt it. I really think its the fuel trims.
I will take pictures on my lunch break and try and post them up here at work of how the intake is sitting and rubbing up against the hood...
Can you please explain...
I originally thought there was a hole either in the sleeve that connects the intake to the turbo or a leak around there, but I checked and I couldnt find anything.
All the other vaccum lines appear to be intact. She's got 18kmi on her, so maybe she needs sprk plugs already...but I doubt it. I really think its the fuel trims.
I will take pictures on my lunch break and try and post them up here at work of how the intake is sitting and rubbing up against the hood...
well now this just poses the question on what basis is a tune good or bad. What specifically makes the gms1 tune a bad tune?
Logic would have one believe that a tune warrantied for 5yr/100k miles (if installed when car is purchased) would only be if its good enough to warrant said warranty. I find it hard to believe a company would slap a warranty on a product for that duration of time if it was bad and prone to causing failures/cel's and overall negative reactions with customers.
If you are basing this assesment on performance #'s, its a conservative tune, yes, but the more aggressive the tune, the tighter your fault margins get as well. Pushing a system at 70% is by default less stressful than pushing a system at 95%. Those arent specific %'s to anything, just a principle in systems engineering.
In either case I don't see how gms1 can be justified as a bad tune. Moreso, a durable and safe tune.
Logic would have one believe that a tune warrantied for 5yr/100k miles (if installed when car is purchased) would only be if its good enough to warrant said warranty. I find it hard to believe a company would slap a warranty on a product for that duration of time if it was bad and prone to causing failures/cel's and overall negative reactions with customers.
If you are basing this assesment on performance #'s, its a conservative tune, yes, but the more aggressive the tune, the tighter your fault margins get as well. Pushing a system at 70% is by default less stressful than pushing a system at 95%. Those arent specific %'s to anything, just a principle in systems engineering.
In either case I don't see how gms1 can be justified as a bad tune. Moreso, a durable and safe tune.
haha u wld be very naive then. I have heard of waaay to many ppl gettin GMS1 and wishing they never did. Just because a product has a warranty doesnt mean that the people installing it or fixing problems with it have any clue wat they are doing. Anyone thats had problems with there kit will prob tell u the same story. ALSO, performance wise, the tune sucks(meaning it does not get good numbers compared to wat it cld). Now that being said, if u really want to keep your warranty and dont wana risk it buy getting an different tune, then the GMS1 is an OK way to go. BUT only as long as u get lucky and the dealer installs it correctly and u keep the rest of ur car STOCK. reason being because the GMS1 tune is very sensitive and designed for a stock car, adding things like intake or dp need to have the tune adjusted for them or it cld result in awkward behavior.
so bottom line, its just my opinion, but a kit that u have to worry about it being installed correctly and then cant even add any other parts that u want to the car and u have to sacrifice about 20hp that u wld simply get frm another tune, then that kit sucks if u ask me. Id rather get the better tune and hope chevy doesnt notice, which they prob wont.
Yeah, I doubt the coupler between the intake and the turbo has a hole.. The intake fits snug right up against the turbo inlet the coupler just holds it in place.
I too think its fuel trims. Its takes a little while before they go out of whack, but I know that that filter position you had it caused it.
I too think its fuel trims. Its takes a little while before they go out of whack, but I know that that filter position you had it caused it.
well now this just poses the question on what basis is a tune good or bad. What specifically makes the gms1 tune a bad tune?
Logic would have one believe that a tune warrantied for 5yr/100k miles (if installed when car is purchased) would only be if its good enough to warrant said warranty. I find it hard to believe a company would slap a warranty on a product for that duration of time if it was bad and prone to causing failures/cel's and overall negative reactions with customers.
If you are basing this assesment on performance #'s, its a conservative tune, yes, but the more aggressive the tune, the tighter your fault margins get as well. Pushing a system at 70% is by default less stressful than pushing a system at 95%. Those arent specific %'s to anything, just a principle in systems engineering.
In either case I don't see how gms1 can be justified as a bad tune. Moreso, a durable and safe tune.
Logic would have one believe that a tune warrantied for 5yr/100k miles (if installed when car is purchased) would only be if its good enough to warrant said warranty. I find it hard to believe a company would slap a warranty on a product for that duration of time if it was bad and prone to causing failures/cel's and overall negative reactions with customers.
If you are basing this assesment on performance #'s, its a conservative tune, yes, but the more aggressive the tune, the tighter your fault margins get as well. Pushing a system at 70% is by default less stressful than pushing a system at 95%. Those arent specific %'s to anything, just a principle in systems engineering.
In either case I don't see how gms1 can be justified as a bad tune. Moreso, a durable and safe tune.
The tune is extremely simple. Some boost was added and some changes made regarding learn down. Nothing special, gm spent about half an hour putting that together lol.
Good grief. GM actual took the time to put on speed sensors into the K04 and made sure that the turbo would live to 100k miles. They also beat it around a track, and quite frankly, no one that sells tunes right now exercises the car on road courses. I had the GMS1 tune for quite some time, and eventually started going HPT for my own reasons, but the GMS1 tune is excellent for those concerned with warranty.
There's nothing inherently wrong with it, and I would say that it's better than self tuning if you don't know what you're doing, or running an aggressive tune and not logging on a regular basis. If you want additional power, then go with BYT, Term2, or other well known LNF tuners, but if you care about longevity, or if you ever get out onto a road course, ask for a very mild tune. Kinda like the GMS1...
Bill from GM is no dummy, and he explained most of this on the board, but on the interwebz, people are ADD. It's a shame really.
There's nothing inherently wrong with it, and I would say that it's better than self tuning if you don't know what you're doing, or running an aggressive tune and not logging on a regular basis. If you want additional power, then go with BYT, Term2, or other well known LNF tuners, but if you care about longevity, or if you ever get out onto a road course, ask for a very mild tune. Kinda like the GMS1...
Bill from GM is no dummy, and he explained most of this on the board, but on the interwebz, people are ADD. It's a shame really.
I cant get the pictures up at work to show it hitting the hood...
I am sticking with the GMS1 for now. We can debate quality of GMS1 in another thread, besides its been beatin to death.
So is there no point in a catted DP either than? I was planning on buying that this Friday...hahahaha
I am sticking with the GMS1 for now. We can debate quality of GMS1 in another thread, besides its been beatin to death.
So is there no point in a catted DP either than? I was planning on buying that this Friday...hahahaha
I've been running GMS1 + K&N SRI since July and have not had any issues with the climate change thus far. My coupler is facing upwards (12:30) and it seems to run very well. I use my car as my work commuter (50 Kms each way To/From) and it hasn't given me any greif while still maintaining great fuel mileage and schooling any 4 banger around here that wants to throw down. As it's been preached over and over again by the big players on this forum that have great credibility, although it may sound great, the intake will not be working 100% until tuned for. No, your car is not going to blow up but the potential for problems is higher which is why I'll be getting it tuned once the snow melts in the spring (along with a catted DP
). Everyone is going to have their own opinion but in the end, your forking out the dough so use your gut and take what you can from the people on this forum. Remember, we're all driving the same car.
). Everyone is going to have their own opinion but in the end, your forking out the dough so use your gut and take what you can from the people on this forum. Remember, we're all driving the same car.
Update 2
The Code was a P0300 (misfire) and it hit on all 4 cylinders... (P0301, "2, "3, "4)
I uploaded pictures into my gallery of how high the K&N Filter sits. You will notice it sits about a 1/2in higher than the heat shield. I tried uploading the picture of it tearing up my hood blanket, but it will not work...
I have the SS Hood blanket for looks, which is why I was concerned. I noticed this morning that my stock chargepiping has done more damage to it than the intake ever will.
$100 down the drain.
I also logged about 100mi on the car last night. No CELs. Must have been the position of the filter and the colder weather in AZ screwing everything up. Thanks CudaJoe for figuring that one out!
I uploaded pictures into my gallery of how high the K&N Filter sits. You will notice it sits about a 1/2in higher than the heat shield. I tried uploading the picture of it tearing up my hood blanket, but it will not work...
I have the SS Hood blanket for looks, which is why I was concerned. I noticed this morning that my stock chargepiping has done more damage to it than the intake ever will.
I also logged about 100mi on the car last night. No CELs. Must have been the position of the filter and the colder weather in AZ screwing everything up. Thanks CudaJoe for figuring that one out!
hmm, I never bothered to check to see if my filter sits that high above the heat shield? I should check that. THe filter position that I seem to preach about is the same position they have it as in the install video at K&N.
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