hhrfreek

iTrader: (6)

Are Wiseco LNF pistons compatible with stock rods? There is a thread from a while back where MattM says they are not. Should the stock rods handle a maxed out ZFR 6758/E47...what is that ~450whp?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

There is a member on here who recently dynod 481 on a stock bottom end lnf.

Its all in the tune really

hhrfreek

iTrader: (6)

I am hesitant to push it beyond 24psi due to the risk of damaging the head/cylinder if a piston breaks up. I am thinking just replace the weakest link in this engine and push it. I have been running 24psi/e47 for 2 years with no problems, but now with the 6758 I just think its a waste at 24psi.

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

If your going to tear into the motor you might as well due rods. It's all in the tuning
If you have a shitty tuner, even the best motor won't last.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

True if youre tearing it open do rods too

KMO43

Thats me. I have a 7163 on the street it'll hit 29psi on the dyno pull it only hit 28 and its my daily driver

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

Iv been pushing 28 psi at around 400+whp for over a year on stock engine and tranny. Good boost ramp and some good tuning and it will be fine. I'd be more worried about the tranny than the motor

hhrfreek

iTrader: (6)

I thought the pistons were the weak point though? Will they work with stock rods?

Eh...maybe I will just hold off on digging into the motor and keep the power close to where its at. That $$$$ will go a long way for a trans swap...and I think that will net me a much lower et than a little extra power.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Not really the weak point, but they don't like knock at all. Knock will kill the stock pistons quick

KMO43

An lnf can hold 500hp you're on e47 it's really easy and safe to run 26 to 28psi on that fuel

KMO43

I do agree tho there's no point throwing in pistons on stock rods why pay to get machining and everything to put stock parts in

TurboWood

To answer the original question, you can run Wiseco pistons on stock rods. I just finished my build with this.

The reason I went this route was that the stock pistons are suseptable to ring land failures even at stock levels and I don't need more than 350hp. My engine was also apart so making the change was easy.

Daniel

KMO43

Why not spend a bit more and have 600+?

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

Not everyone wants 600hp. Personally a waste of money in my eyes. I'm not into highway pulls and straight line racing with this car. Take it on a road corse and you will quickly see with a good driver 350-400whp is plenty ro be competitive and you don't need more to make it fun either.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

I agree with Matt here. If the transmission were bulletproof and we had a way to put big tires underneath the car that would be one thing. My life, other than when I drag race at the track is lived 0-75. Im fully bolted on a k04+ running e47 and struggle at traction off and on till 3rd gear. What usable gains can be had by 450-500 hp under 75mph. I can see if all you did was roll race 60- whatever, but dig or road/autocross and just regular driving around I view it as a waste to have that much power. The cars are great for what they are under 400 hp, but if I needed more I would probably just opt for building something that could put the power down easier. Just my 2 cents.

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

I agree with everyone saying when your engine's apart anyway, upgrade all that you can. I only had spun bearings but once the engine was apart I had them put in Wiseco pistons and ZZP forged rods. Parts are relatively cheap when compared to labor of tearing the engine apart multiple times.
But also listen to the folks who say do your tranny first. That was the first thing to go on mine once the engine was back together and I was running 27psi on the 6758 and E47... (even at altitude)

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Also-op I had the same question as you with the Pistons. Built many small block mopars, and small block chevy's and have seen stock rods take a lot of punishment. My only concern would be that usually forged pistons are heavier and swinging that much more weight on the lnf stock rods over time may be too much to ask. If you are staying under 6500 I don't think you will have issues. But most guys when building these motors are also adding bigger turbos that like higher rpm so it's just good insurance. But I don't know a ton about these little motors, just my opinion.

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

I would not use stock rods with heavier pistons but it's doable. Buy a set of Cerrillos and call it a day.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

I'm guessing you meant carrillo's
And spell check got you with the name of an adult novelty shop around here. Unless you really meant giving up on the motor and getting some adult stores😄

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

TurboWood

Does anyone know the weight of the stock piston off hand?

Daniel

camsayre

Who was your tuner?

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

If it's in your budget, go for rods - if it's not, then don't.

I would think upgrading rods would be under the grey area of "if it's apart, why not?" - but that being said, from all I have read here the ringlands, and piston skirt are the two areas which get damaged first (so it is all in the piston; the latter scores cylinder walls, while the former gets plain nasty fast).

Any aftermarket piston would be compatible with OEM rods - as a matter of fact, aftermarket rods are patterned after OEM rods - so to suggest one wouldn't work with the other seems kinda... retarded to me.



Umm, one of the points behind aftermarket pistons is weight savings;
at least every time I have seen side by side weight pictures (from people who went hte distance to share this - they all showed a weight savings);
Plus, aftermarket pistons generally can be lightened to aid in balancing.

Lighter rods & pistons, allow the engine to change rev's easier & quicker...

Ok, sorry for the tangent guys;
Does anyone know who's rods are being sold as "ZZP rods"?
It stands to reason that they are just 'brand x' rods, being sold as ZZP parts...
I was doing a search the other week to see who the manufacturers of aftermarket rods for us were, and ZZP's looked very much like the most common one's I was seeing out there...

I only ask because I'm curious.

I'd love to get a set of Carrillo's, but those aren't exactly in the cards right now...

Dipped_Cobalt

correction of the correction.

Cirilla's




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63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Sound junky- I have no idea what the weights are I was just going with my prior experience with motors. From my experience forged are heavier than cast or hyperutectic (probably miss spelled that) piston to piston, but forged are always stronger when it comes to detonation. One way to combat this say on a sbc would be to run a longer rod and shorter piston. I know nothing about the weight of lnf stuff.
I would take the time to send it out for balancing if changing any of the weights.