So I installed treadstone tr10 intercooler and treadstone charge pipe today because stock intercooler got annihilated by a huge crack and I drove it for about 2 weeks with a boost leans and then parked it for 2 weeks. Fixed it today and now when I accelerate it goes into engine power reduced mode and tried to die. At first it would fall on its face and lose all boost randomly. I don't get it... Ran fine before the leak and with the leak (besides boosting) and I installed parts and put a new battery in and now it's not boosting at all anymore. Limped it home.

Mods
25psi tune
Forge bpv
Charge pipe
Intercooler

 

It also acts like it wants to die when I slow down. Idk what to do.

 

Here are some pictures of codes and it won't turn over. Think it's this little plug.

 

Kinda hard to tell. (using my cell) But looks like the sensor got melted and all your codes pertain to an electrical spike or issue.

How is your engine idling? This could result in your alternator spiking.

If the sensor is melted I would check battery voltage and alternator output. Also do you have any aftermarket electrical items wired into your vehicle or just any aftermarket wires at all. If so eliminate them and see if your problem goes away.

If you have about 5 or 10 mins and a spare piece of sand paper clean up your engine ground and chassis ground to help eliminate those as problem as well.

I could be completely wrong since I can't tell by the pics, But if that's the case FREE BUMP lol

Hope this helps and keep us posted.

 

Yeah my friend came over who had a cobalt for about 8 years and looked at it with me. I need a new HPFP

 

Just to see if this is the answer, I'll explain a little bit more

First off sorry for the post that was all over the place I mean I just spent 550$ in parts for it to run and it didn't run (so I was a little pissed) but right where the high pressure fuel pump connects to the engine up front there's a sensor for the fuel pressure and the sensor is built in to the HPFP. I bought the car and when I saw that back in April I was skeptical about it but at the time I was obsessed with the car so I didn't want to think anything bad about the car. But the guy before me obviously ghetto rigged it pretty well but I think when I was taking off the stock charge pipe I bumped it hard enough for it to go. That's where the fuel pressure code came from, do you think that caused the other codes I have?

 

I seriously doubt the HPFP connector being blown would cause all of the rest of those. Unless all on the same circuit.

I'd say you still have a multitude of issues and wiring problems.

Just start slow with the obvious connector issue and move forward from there.

 

With surging or shorting it could be something as simple as replacing a fuse because your alternator spiked or a wire shorted out, If the fuse or fuses are blown and blows again right away then you have a problem in the system still, If it was a short and the fuse doesn't blow then it won't happen till the short happens again and the only way to find a short is to visually inspect wires and do continuity tests on the wires. If it doesn't blow the fuse right away then it could have been a spike in the alternator regulator and that's an indication that you should get a replacement or you could take it out and get it tested.

 

Sorry but this information is completely wrong.

Codes do not list in the order of failure.

Sensors are not run in series.

The only thing on the whole car that I can think of that is wired in series is the GMLAN / CANBUS and I cannot think of a single sensor on the engine that communicates via either system.

 

Check the wiring to the hpfp further down the line. Last year my car did the samething. It turned out that the two wires go through thay metal sheild/cover and it is fairly toght on the wires. So over time one of the wires started rubbing against the metal and wore into the inside wire itself. The bare wire at times would then on occasion contact the metal. Caused an electrical spike. And the car would go onto limp mode and die. All i did to fix it was electrical tape it back up. And put some rubber under it to help protect it. And iys never done it again. Iy happen r or 5 times untill i figured it out. Even then i got lucky that i thought to check the wiring and sure enough found bare wires about e or 4 inches back from the plug right were they go into that metal cover. Iy hasnt happened again in almost 2 years now. Idk for sure if that is causing your problem. But uys worth looking into. I have read a few other posts on here over the years where a few others have had the wires ware through as well. Worth looking at just in case. Never know....

 

This ^^

 

Just to share the solution; my MAP sensor wiring was rubbing on an ac component and finally wore through to the metal of the wire. It was rerouted and taped up. No more problem.

 

Thanks for posting your solution. I wish everyone would update their posts.

 

Interesting. That was causing all those codes? Crazy.

 

If you think about it, it does make sense if the 5v reference was grounding out. That would also cause every sensor that shares that 5v reference feed to be flakey.

Just food for thought and might not be the reason at all.

 

True, wouldn't that be a power distribution issue?

 

I found it to be odd, didn't think something so minor would cause such a major problem like that. While I was searching online for the solution a lot of people say wiring gets messed up and this is the second time for me with a cobalts wiring issue. On my old one it was the MAF sensor harness. This time the MAP sensor harness.